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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I have a 69 camaro and when I purchased it it had this voltage display battery terminal and it worked, but now it doesn't work and Im curious why? It has this blue wire that isn't hooked to anything. Can Anyone tell me why its not displaying the voltage anymore? I had a yellow top optima battery that got ruined and I think its because of this.
 

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Huh, I've never seen one of those...
Has the blue wire always been disconnected? I'd guess its a ground and that's why nothing is displayed.
Can you get a number off the chip in pic 2?
 

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I believe Kev is correct it's a ground wire. I bet if you touch the unconnected end of the blue wire to the - (neg) post you get a voltage reading. Cheers, Fred
 

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Okay, it was a ground. I hooked it up to the negative post and it i got a reading of 12.6 to 12.7 it keeps jumping from those 2 numbers.
 

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Yeah there has to be a connection to the negative side of the system in order to calculate the power. The eBay link is the gold version of the unit which has an identical boot only without the readout for the negative battery post, the base line being sold in UK has just the positive and the blue wire and says it is attached to the negative post. The Sliver model has both boots.

Maybe your lead was pinched in the negative clamp and fell off the last time you serviced and removed the clamp?
 

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Thanks for the help. Im new to all this. Is the 12.6 and 12.7 volt reading good? It keeps jumping between the 2 numbers. It doesn't stay constant on one number.
 

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The electronics inside are reading a voltage and depending on how well it's made it could very well fluctuate. The electronics might be setup to read 12.6999999999 but displays 12.6 but then if it goes up from this point ever so slightly, then the display instead of reading 12.6 would now read 12.7.
Some meters out there have a peak hold to where this comes in handy to where if an electrical circuit normally reads 12.6 or so but then something happens for a split second the meter grabs that high number and displays that. I had a customer years ago that I installed a radio and all was well but after he drove away the audio quit working. He brought it back and it started working again. Long story short, I ended up hooking up my Fluke meter and after a few times of revving the motor up the voltage finally peaked for just a split second at 19 volts or so and then the radio's protection sensed this and turned off the audio output. The display although worked and stayed on the whole time.
Little fluctuations like a 0.1 volt or so on a 12 volt system is nothing to worry about. It's going to happen.

Jim
 

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Should be higher when the vehicle is running but 12.x is good storage voltage.
 

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Well now that I turned the car on and let it warm up, the battery doesn't read any volts. It just shows a double line, no #s. When I turned the car off the the voltage read 13.7, then dropped slowly down to 13.0 like a countdown.
 

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If it were me, but my opinion only, I would take it off. Put standard cables on it. I learned how to test my alternator and batt on this site. Voltmeters are cheap so it would be a good idea to invest in one. Youtube It too, they have videos on this subject. Not positive on your optima batt but I think it might require a certain type of charger when drained past a certain point. I have one in my boat but I don't have a special charger for it, so I don't really know.
 

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Looks like an audio product based on the supplier.
12.6 resting is good.
Optima AGM batteries do need a special charger.
 

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Well now that I turned the car on and let it warm up, the battery doesn't read any volts. It just shows a double line, no #s. When I turned the car off the the voltage read 13.7, then dropped slowly down to 13.0 like a countdown.
I wouldn't worry about it not showing anything w/ the engine running.
The fact that it shows 13.7 when you shut the engine off means the alt is charging.
Dropping back down to 12.6 is normal.
 
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