Team Camaro Tech banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
708 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a problem where my current setup on my camaro acts more of theft deterant then an actaul kill switch. I have the Flaming River switch that needs the red key before the car will start, but after the car is started and you turn the switch off, the car still runs.

I know that means it is running off the alternator correct? Can I just run the one wire from alterantor back to this same switch or no? I see Flaming River sells one that has 4 prongs but do I really need all that. Why can't I just run the alternator wire to this switch?

I am electrically challenged and really do not have any diagrams to follow. The current switch is just a two prong and I need to make it NHRA legal since the battery is in the trunk.

Thanks, Erik
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,677 Posts
I have a problem where my current setup on my camaro acts more of theft deterant then an actaul kill switch. I have the Flaming River switch that needs the red key before the car will start, but after the car is started and you turn the switch off, the car still runs.

I know that means it is running off the alternator correct?
In theory yes that would sound like it but how did you wire everything?

Below is an example of how it can be wired.


Additional Info.....It is very important to run the alternator charging wire to the battery when you use a master kill switch. What can happen when the switch is turned off (especially at RPM) is a huge voltage spike can occur which can damage anything electrical in the car. The battery will absorb the voltage spike from the charging wire and protect all of your electrical components as long the alternator charging wire is on one side of the kill switch and everything else is on the other.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
708 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I didn't wire the car, I got it this way. Basically the battery is mounted in the trunk and the current kill switch has a wire coming from the battery to one side of the switch and the other wire comes off the switch and all the way up to the starter. The alternator is a one wire alternator and runs off the alt. around the firewall and into the original wiring harness somehow. It ends up either over where the voltage regulator was or all the way over to the original junction block on the radiator support. I assume this is alot like original.

Erik
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,677 Posts
Basically the battery is mounted in the trunk and the current kill switch has a wire coming from the battery to one side of the switch and the other wire comes off the switch and all the way up to the starter.
OK one big fat always live wire to the starter.


The alternator is a one wire alternator and runs off the alt. around the firewall and into the original wiring harness somehow. It ends up either over where the voltage regulator was or all the way over to the original junction block on the radiator support.
OK, so then yes you can run the alternator charge wire back to the battery side of the kill switch.


So I'm wondering how everything in the car gets power? You have one wire from the battery to the starter and the alternator charging wire goes into the stock harness. Is there another wire from the starter that provides power to the main harness?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
708 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yes, the there is a red 8-10 guage wire running from the starter up to the junction block on the rad. support where the factory one goes.

Erik
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
708 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
So, does this mean I should run the one wire from the alternator to the battery side of the kill switch or to the actual battery itself? I just don't want any issues or fires.

Thanks, Erik
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,246 Posts
It makes no difference, the battery and the live side of the kill switch are electrically the same point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
708 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
So, I just spent alot of time in the garage trying to figure out this wiring shutoff switch. I bought the two prong flaming river with the shut off lever. Theyy didn't make a 4 prong with the lever.

I was wrong on the way the car was wired. They had a negative ground switched for the on and off. The positive went from the battery all the way to the starter. So now my plans are like this but I still have questions.

1. Run the wire from the starter back to one post on the new switch.
2. Run a wire from the other post back up to the positive side of the battery.
3. Run the ground from the battery down to the nicely welded tab on the rear frame rail.
4. Run an 8-10 qauge wire from the alternator all the way back to a post on the switch.

My questions or concerns:
1. Which post does the alt. wire go on?
2. Which gauge wire is appropriate?
3. How is this really going to kill the alternator when the switch is off? Isn't this still the same set up as running the alternator down to the starter as before and when the car is running and you throw the switch the car will still run?

Sorry the questions, but I need to be thorough before a melt down.

Thanks, Erik
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,677 Posts
Here's how I wired....

1. Big fat cable from starter to switched side of Ford Solenoid in trunk.
2. Big fat cable from the unswitched side of Ford solenoid to battery.
3. Ignition wire to "S" terminal on Ford Solenoid in trunk.
4. Small jumper cable from big cable on starter to starter solenoid on engine.
5. 8 Gauge from alternator charge to unswitched side of Ford solenoid in trunk
6. 8 gauge from unswitched side of Ford Solenoid to unswitched side of kill switch.
7. 8 gauge from switched side of kill switch back up to engine compartment to power everything.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top