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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here are some up to date pictures pictures. I'm not done yet. Still waiting on a Flaming River cutoff switch.
Some info.
Using a Odyssey PC1200. Taylor 48300 sealed box Bolted to the frame, not floor panel. Batt fits perfect
Everything is soldered and shrunk wraped. NO CRIMPS.
1 Ga wire connected to a Ford solenoid going to the pass floor kick panel with a through wall terminal. From the other side to the starter with a jumper to the "S" terminal.
"S" terminal wire now on Ford solenoid.
New splice terminal block under hood with 4GA wire to the rear with a 80A fuse then to the Solenoid.
4GA wire from alt with a 80A fuse under hood to the rear. Another 80A fuse then to one side of the gut off switch. From the cut off switch to the batt. With the cutoff switch it will not only kill the car but the entire electrical system. The only live wire in the car will be from the batt to the cutoff about 2 feet long.:yes:
Bottom fuse is from the terminal block and top is from the alt. The panel where the fuses are mounted was made using some steel I had around. If you look close it's not just bolted stright down. It goes in toward the fender well around 3 inched then down. It's all welded toghether. ( love that welder) I can now sleep at night using these fuses:D

Batt voltage at terminal block under hood is 12.54 without the car running.
With the car running I have 14.33 STEADY volts from idle to 5500rpm. I'm very happy with that because before I would drop to around 13V at idle before. The changes I did made it better. With headlights on at idle I'm at 13.97v ...14.33 with the touch of the gas.

Any questions let me know!!!
 

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Looks very professional.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. I tried to make it for show also. The engine compartment looks so much cleaner now too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Finished up! Not sure what happened though... At idle I have my 12.54v and won't go up untill I hit the gas. As soon as I touch it the volts go right up. If I turn the lights and wipers on at idle my volts go to around 11.7 then touch the gas and goes right to 14 or so.??????.... I ran 4ga from the alt to the batt and from the batt to the distribution block. Total runs were around 18 feet each way. From what I've been reading it looks like I went too small..Grrr. I may be fine for 60 amp alt but what if I upgrade to 130? I hope I'll be fine. I may try a smaller pulley on the alt. Right now I have a 2 3/4" and a 7" crank. I might try a 2" and see what happens. Any other suggestions?

Anyway check out the switch location. It fit in the opening PERFECT. As of now I have no external cutoff, but also have no plans right now to drive to Englishtown anyway any time soon. ENJOY...
 

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Ext reg alt? System working normal. By its design, the Delcotron was the hot ticket. The mech reg has too much swing. You can adjust them up to 14.8 VDC with only engine running at 1800-2000 rpm, but turn on headlamps, heater, wipers, and idle, voltage is around battery, 12.5 VDC at best. Give rpm, and it boosts up.

Measure voltage drop from BAT @ alt to battery post, s/b less than 0.4 V., stud to stud/post.

If using a good quality DMM, zero the meter first. Use the length of wire you chose to get to the other end of the car and select DC volts on the meter. Take the length of wire and the other meter lead and hold the ends together. Meter will indicate some voltage under a volt. Watch the meter count down to zero, may take a minute or two. As soon as zero is obtained, measure voltage drop of power cable.

Before doing anything drastic, such as changing pulley, change mech regulator for a Wells P/N VR715 regulator and tell us the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Ext reg alt? System working normal. By its design, the Delcotron was the hot ticket. The mech reg has too much swing. You can adjust them up to 14.8 VDC with only engine running at 1800-2000 rpm, but turn on headlamps, heater, wipers, and idle, voltage is around battery, 12.5 VDC at best. Give rpm, and it boosts up.

Measure voltage drop from BAT @ alt to battery post, s/b less than 0.4 V., stud to stud/post.

If using a good quality DMM, zero the meter first. Use the length of wire you chose to get to the other end of the car and select DC volts on the meter. Take the length of wire and the other meter lead and hold the ends together. Meter will indicate some voltage under a volt. Watch the meter count down to zero, may take a minute or two. As soon as zero is obtained, measure voltage drop of power cable.

Before doing anything drastic, such as changing pulley, change mech regulator for a Wells P/N VR715 regulator and tell us the results.
I have the Wells VR715 right now. There's no adjustment on it. What do you mean Measure voltage drop from BAT @ alt to battery post, s/b less than 0.4 V., stud to stud/post.

Take the alt wire off the batt and measure it there and also at the alt itself? Here's how it's wired.

To let you know I have no problem getting a better alternator if you suggest. Electric fans are in the future also..
 

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You would be measuring the voltage drop the cable is inducing into the circuit by measuring between the alt BAT stud and the battery post. All those connections drop some voltage, BAT stud to terminal lug, lug crimp to wire, other end of wire, crimp to lug, lug to battery cutoff switch, c/o sw contacts, and lastly, the final section of wire. All those connections, plus the negative side also contribute to the equation as well.

Four gauge is plenty big wire for the purpose.

The idea here is to have the reg 'sense' the voltage difference due to length of cable. As an experiment, disconnect brown wire, term 4, at the reg and substitute a wire from the post battery post to term 4 and monitor charging voltage at the battery posts. Hook the jumper wire to term 4 and and run it back to the battery and have DMM hooked up to measure battery charge voltage. Momentarily take jumper wire and touch battery pos post and watch meter reading. If it goes up, success, sense reference may have to be changed and switched as in on-off switch like OE brown wire.

Or sub in a CS130 alt and follow instructions elsewhere in theis forum for swapping out a CS130 alt. Maybe a better idea since you're gonna get fans.

I believe you'll never really get rid of the lower voltage.
Input from other members?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You would be measuring the voltage drop the cable is inducing into the circuit by measuring between the alt BAT stud and the battery post. All those connections drop some voltage, BAT stud to terminal lug, lug crimp to wire, other end of wire, crimp to lug, lug to battery cutoff switch, c/o sw contacts, and lastly, the final section of wire. All those connections, plus the negative side also contribute to the equation as well.

Four gauge is plenty big wire for the purpose.

The idea here is to have the reg 'sense' the voltage difference due to length of cable. As an experiment, disconnect brown wire, term 4, at the reg and substitute a wire from the post battery post to term 4 and monitor charging voltage at the battery posts. Hook the jumper wire to term 4 and and run it back to the battery and have DMM hooked up to measure battery charge voltage. Momentarily take jumper wire and touch battery pos post and watch meter reading. If it goes up, success, sense reference may have to be changed and switched as in on-off switch like OE brown wire.

Or sub in a CS130 alt and follow instructions elsewhere in theis forum for swapping out a CS130 alt. Maybe a better idea since you're gonna get fans.

I believe you'll never really get rid of the lower voltage.
Input from other members?
The Brown wire?
 

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On the diagram you have, the top wire of the regulator connector. I would probably try using the smaller alt pulley , then if this smaller pulley helped, use a larger crank pulley.

As long as the sytem not overvoltage, say 14.8 volts max, then this may be the best it gets until you swap in a CS130 alt.
 
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