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1969 Camaro Restomod
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Discussion Starter #1
Header pretty much says it all. Just curious about what kind of hose people are using on a aftermarket billet serpentine setup? Are you going around or over the alternator, or using some kind of flex hose? I'm not a big fan of the bellows type, wondered if there are alternatives. I had a KIllerGlass setup on my SVT Lightning, might think about building one of those again.
 

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Brett - Leander, Texas 1969 SS396
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Here is the Gates Hose catalog (attached). I used it to find a lower radiator hose for my reverse rotation water pump for my CVF Racing 8-rib serpentine belt system.
Brett.....
 

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Premium Member
1969 Camaro Restomod
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815 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Brett... I'm messing with fitting the condenser/drier to the core support today. Wish I was an octopus, two hands are not enough LOL. But thanks for that Link... but how about giving me a head start since I'm also running a reverse flow water pump.
Here is the Gates Hose catalog (attached). I used it to find a lower radiator hose for my reverse rotation water pump for my CVF Racing 8-rib serpentine belt system.
Brett.....
BTW, here's what one of the guys in my FB group did... pretty custom.

90-90-RichMutert.jpg
 

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Brett - Leander, Texas 1969 SS396
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Brett... I'm messing with fitting the condenser/drier to the core support today. Wish I was an octopus, two hands are not enough LOL. But thanks for that Link... but how about giving me a head start since I'm also running a reverse flow water pump.
I wish I could, but I have the hose mounted and the only number I can read off of it is 2138. Since the hose is mounted I can't be for sure what diameters the ends are on my particular hose. I think my water pump was a 2" outlet, but I would have to go back through the catalog and guess which one it was I picked. Now after I post this I will start by going back through my stacks of receipts to see if I can find it. I already searched through all of my emails hoping there was an email for it. I did purchase this hose, but I don't know for sure this is the hose on my car right now. Your basically going to have to do what I did; measure the length, measure each end diameter, go through the Gates catalog until you find a part number that looks close. Go up to the auto parts store and buy a few of them, then take back the ones that don't fit. That is why I don't remember which one it was-there were like 6 or 7 that I tried. I will let you know if I find a receipt. Remember, we are not talking about the same serp kit. So, my water pump is more than likely not the same either.

Brett.....

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1969 Camaro Restomod
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Discussion Starter #6
Actually Brett, I might be in luck. I pulled the old hose out of my takeoff parts box and it looks like it might be useful. Might get a new one but it fits the water pump fine, its 2" ID and basically a right angle elbow. Hopefully I get my radiator and new shroud back from the fabricator this coming week and I can then start thinking about ALL the hoses.
LowerHose-00.jpg

Fitting that Condenser to the Core Support is driving me batty. I got the top two bolts set, combined with the hood latch... but lining up the two bottom ones, yuk. Used one of my little scissor jacks to lift the center bracket a quarter inch bc I couldn't do it on my own and see what the hole alignment looks like. Condenser looks too close to the Core Support at the bottom. Gonna think about putting the two lower brackets on the back rail to move it forward.

Mike
 

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Brett - Leander, Texas 1969 SS396
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Mike, is this what you are talking about? I assume your talking about the freon lines? Ahh yes, I remember it well. It was a Bit#$! I do remember it would have been helpful to have at least one more hand, lol...
Brett.....

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265155
 

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My condenser lined up pretty nicely. I did the top two bolts without the hood latch just to get it secure and the bottom two were spot on.
 

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1969 Camaro Restomod
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Discussion Starter #9
Mike, is this what you are talking about? I assume your talking about the freon lines? Ahh yes, I remember it well. It was a Bit#$! I do remember it would have been helpful to have at least one more hand, lol...
Brett..... Actually that part wasn't too bad. I wound up taking out the entire Condenser/Drier assembly this morning and RTFI again... and conceded to remove the hood latch this time. So that worked better, actually was easier to do it the way VA did it in their video instructions. Set up the bottom first, then worry about the top. But yeah, a 3rd hand would come in handy when you're trying to align the hood latch, core support, and the C-Clip on the upper bracket. I wound up using a small piece of 3/16" steel rod to align one side while focusing on the other LOL. I got it. A new problem is that I can't seem to break loose the nut on the drier where the switch goes. I even put PB Blaster on it but I can't seem to move it. I may have to remove the drier and put it padded in a vise to see if I can get it out. Otherwise, send it back and have them loosen it.

View attachment 265154



View attachment 265155
My condenser lined up pretty nicely. I did the top two bolts without the hood latch just to get it secure and the bottom two were spot on.
Once I removed the hood latch, it sort of fell into place close enough to get it aligned. One mistake I may have made (maybe) was I slid that PS lower bracket behind the brace in-between the brace and core support. I tried several times to get the body bolt to go... but the holes were too misaligned to get it to take. I figured the easiest thing would be to slide it behind, or I could grind down the bottom of the bracket so it would nest in there closer to the perpendicular part of the brace.

Did you guys uncap the condenser and connect the lines during the basic install and after that how long before you had the system charged? In the video instructions, they don't even mention what's in the printed instructions. In the printed instructions it tells you not to take the caps off because the condenser is filled with a desiccant to preserve the interior of the condenser and improve its performance. I says to only remove the caps when you are ready to evacuate the system. The video shows the VA tech just loosening the caps and installing the hardline, never mentioning anything.

Mike
 

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I was about to ask the same thing about the drier, where it mentions not removing the caps until you're ready to evacuate the system. Makes mocking things up a little more complicated. Started looking at my hose runs. I ran my #6 hose behind the inner fender and it comes out nicely behind the headlight bucket so I'm thinking I can go directly to the drier output with it and not use the included hardline. I'm at a standstill anyway, I need to order some different valve fittings, the ones I have are completely wrong.
 

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Tim - The Northwest 1969 Camaro
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I was about to ask the same thing about the drier, where it mentions not removing the caps until you're ready to evacuate the system. Makes mocking things up a little more complicated. Started looking at my hose runs. I ran my #6 hose behind the inner fender and it comes out nicely behind the headlight bucket so I'm thinking I can go directly to the drier output with it and not use the included hardline. I'm at a standstill anyway, I need to order some different valve fittings, the ones I have are completely wrong.
You know, I didn't even think about going directly to the dryer. I have my hard lines mounted and ready to go but that's definitely a thought.
 

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Tim - The Northwest 1969 Camaro
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Once I removed the hood latch, it sort of fell into place close enough to get it aligned. One mistake I may have made (maybe) was I slid that PS lower bracket behind the brace in-between the brace and core support. I tried several times to get the body bolt to go... but the holes were too misaligned to get it to take. I figured the easiest thing would be to slide it behind, or I could grind down the bottom of the bracket so it would nest in there closer to the perpendicular part of the brace.

Did you guys uncap the condenser and connect the lines during the basic install and after that how long before you had the system charged? In the video instructions, they don't even mention what's in the printed instructions. In the printed instructions it tells you not to take the caps off because the condenser is filled with a desiccant to preserve the interior of the condenser and improve its performance. I says to only remove the caps when you are ready to evacuate the system. The video shows the VA tech just loosening the caps and installing the hardline, never mentioning anything.

Mike
I also saw those notes and promptly ignored them since there is no way to bolt things up without doing so. They did puff when opened so it was under pressure but I can't imagine there is any great damage from atmospheric moisture. I did put the rubber plugs and plastic caps back on the hard lines and I believe I installed my condenser and dryer about 8 - 10 months ago. Probably going to charge it within the month. Probably not much help but sometimes I think warnings like those are to protect the supplier from the consumer, not the other way around.
 

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1969 Camaro Restomod
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Discussion Starter #13
I didn't connect the hard lines to the condenser, but they're all mounted and in place, even got the hardline support bracket in and the two hardlines are secured to it with the clamps. I can calculate my AC hose runs now fairly easily. Using the '67-'68 hardlines made this part pretty easy, and I think running the hoses straight out rather than over the fender will work out good for me because of the RS headlight module which is a good sized black box that must be mounted on the forward curve of the inner fender well.
 

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1969 Camaro Restomod
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Discussion Starter #14
I was about to ask the same thing about the drier, where it mentions not removing the caps until you're ready to evacuate the system. Makes mocking things up a little more complicated. Started looking at my hose runs. I ran my #6 hose behind the inner fender and it comes out nicely behind the headlight bucket so I'm thinking I can go directly to the drier output with it and not use the included hardline. I'm at a standstill anyway, I need to order some different valve fittings, the ones I have are completely wrong.
You know, I didn't even think about going directly to the dryer. I have my hard lines mounted and ready to go but that's definitely a thought.
I'm messing with the Heater/AC control unit and maybe some wiring (gulp), just wondering if I can use any old self-tapping screw to fasten the sliders in place as I sold the original unit and bought a new one... the fastening screws were not included. What did you guys use?
 

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Tim - The Northwest 1969 Camaro
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I'm messing with the Heater/AC control unit and maybe some wiring (gulp), just wondering if I can use any old self-tapping screw to fasten the sliders in place as I sold the original unit and bought a new one... the fastening screws were not included. What did you guys use?
So I cheated and bought the VA unit because I managed to snap off two of the arms of my original sliders. For what it's worth, their unit is sweet - perfect fit, plugs right into the evaporator and is designed for the system.
 

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So I cheated and bought the VA unit because I managed to snap off two of the arms of my original sliders. For what it's worth, their unit is sweet - perfect fit, plugs right into the evaporator and is designed for the system.
I converted my original control unit over when I first got the VA kit in. After running all the ducting I took one look under the dash and there was no way I was going to try and stick that thing up in there with all those levers sticking out. I went ahead and ordered the VA controller and as you said it is sweet and easy.
 

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1969 Camaro Restomod
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Discussion Starter #17
I'm gonna try lol to use the OEM style unit with the VA components mounted to the levers. I have it all assembled and it seems to work smoothly, and with the dash nacelle and pad off it looks ok so far. Time will tell.

Getting back to the serpentine setup, mine is fairly simplistic in one aspect, it doesn't have a tensioner, belts are tightened the old fashioned way, leverage it tight, then tighten all the bolts. And of course, the belt that came with the kit seemed to be just a tad too short. It took three trips to AZ to finally get a belt that seems to fit. I used the old string trick to finally hone in on the right size. I used the old school string trick to measure the general length, and each time a different counter person asked what year and engine lol. The manufacturers used some sort of crazy code, but I discovered that Continental belts usually end in three digits that indicate the length. So a belt like 4060672 would be a 6 rib that measured 67.2" in circumference. My system has huge billet side mounts with various holes bored in them, and on the DS those holes mount the GM style gen II PS pump, maybe someday I'll look closer at the PS holes and see if there's a OEM tensioner that could be mounted. But for now I'm gonna ignore that.

Hose wise I'm thinking along the lines of the setup I saw on FB. Three 90 degree elbows, maybe with some ss tubing and Gates shrink clamps.
 
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