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Discussion Starter #1
Im hoping someone has an idea about what's wrong. I ran it yesterday and it was running great. Then i put a new intake manifold on. Same intake, just a new one because i cracked the port for the temp sensor. So i rotated the engine to tdc and pulled the cap on the HEI distributor and marked it so it would go back in correctly. Changed out the manifold and put the distributor back in exactly how it came out. Mark lined up just how it should have.

Doesn't start. The most i can get it to do is backfire out of the carb with starting fluid. I've tried lifting the distributor and moving it a tooth forward and a tooth back. Nothing. I ohm tested the coil and its fine. Engine has spark. Spark plugs are pretty black so im going to start cleaning them now and hoping someone has some ideas for me to try when i get done.

Thanks.
 

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I would say somehow you got the distributor in there incorrectly. Get it back to TDC on #1, then verify your on #1 with the distributor. Pull the cap to see where the rotor is to verify.

If you have spark, fuel and are close on timing, it will at least run.
 

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Yeah I agree. Sounds like the dizzy jumped a tooth on the final inch so you are off just a bit.
 

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Be sure that the TDC you have is on compression the stroke. Get your timing mark where you can see it coming in to view, put a breaker bar with 3/4 socket on the harmonic balancer bolt, remove #1 spark plug. Put your finger over the spark plug hole and pull on the bar watching as it nears TDC. If you hear the sound of compression and your finger feels a build up of pressure thats it. If not your on exhaust stroke. Rotate it again to get to the compression stroke. Just did this last night.
 

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Be sure that the TDC you have is on compression the stroke. Get your timing mark where you can see it coming in to view, put a breaker bar with 3/4 socket on the harmonic balancer bolt, remove #1 spark plug. Put your finger over the spark plug hole and pull on the bar watching as it nears TDC. If you hear the sound of compression and your finger feels a build up of pressure thats it. If not your on exhaust stroke. Rotate it again to get to the compression stroke. Just did this last night.
:thumbsup::hurray::thumbsup:

Exactly =)
+1
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well i did verify that its tdc compression by taking the valve cover off. Watched the intake valve go down then come back up as it neared tdc. I have the rotor pointed right at #1. The spark plugs were better than i was thinking, but i sanded them all anyway. I just don't get this.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Unbelievable. Just did the finger thing. 180 out. How could that even happen. Mark still lines up and everything. So im gonna turn it around and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well it was running but i think i need a new carb. It just dumped a bunch of gasoline down my intake and now its all flooded out.
 

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What carb are you running now? May just need a rebuild kit or reset the float and check metering rods for debris holding them up.


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Discussion Starter #11
Its a quadrajet. I did rebuild it guided by a quadrajet book, and i did some enlarging of holes also in the book. Stuff like that. Basically the idle screws do absolutely nothing, and it leaks gas out of the top gasket no matter how tight the screws are. I also sandblasted the entire carb inside and out before the rebuild so I probably ruined it.
 

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I fixed your link so the video would embed.

Its a quadrajet. I did rebuild it guided by a quadrajet book, and i did some enlarging of holes also in the book. Stuff like that. Basically the idle screws do absolutely nothing, and it leaks gas out of the top gasket no matter how tight the screws are. I also sandblasted the entire carb inside and out before the rebuild so I probably ruined it.

I wouldn't think its ruined. Someone here just recently had the same issue with fuel leaking out the top and thought it was the top screws. It was the float.

To end up this thread I can report that modifying the float level from 9/32" to 3/8" did cure the problem with a leaking top cover. Have used the car for a couple of weeks and it doesn't leak any fuel. The top cover screws is not tightened as hard as before so I guess the screws did not come loose - the problem was the float level. The Qjet has number 17054929 and has been used for -74 Chevrolet/GMC trucks equipped with 350/400/454 ci engines. According to information I have found on internet the float level on these later Qjets should be 0.39-0.42".
Here is the whole thread http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=258994&highlight=fuel+leak
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'll give it a shot but the other issues make me think it needs replaced with the idle needles having no effect on anything. Plus the motor shakes a lot. You can see the shifter slapping around in the video. I think thats because I can't adjust the air fuel mixture.
 

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Still may be just debris. Maybe media from your sandblaster. Break it down and a good soak in a bucket of carb cleaner might just work the issue out.
 

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Unbelievable. Just did the finger thing. 180 out. How could that even happen. Mark still lines up and everything. So im gonna turn it around and see what happens.
The marks will always line up when the cam is 180* off. crank turns 720* for each 360* of the cam
 

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I listened to your video, that sounds like a misfire to me. When you rev it up will it pop? A bad carb could do that under a lean condition but your issue is a rich condition (needs addressed separately) Finger trace each spark plug wire back to the cap, validate in clockwise fashion you have firing order per the attached image.
 

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I agree with rich condition which take us back to the float. Every time you remove a carb you need to check the float level. If the float level is too high your mixture screws will never have any effect.
 

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But then again,,,,, that sounded great if you're not breathing exhaust fumes inside a closed garage and don't know what it should be doing.
 

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Unbelievable. Just did the finger thing. 180 out. How could that even happen. Mark still lines up and everything. So im gonna turn it around and see what happens.
There are 2 TDC's using the Harmonic Balancer and Pointer on a 4 Stroke
TDC Compression
TGC Exhaust

Don't feel Bad, I wired my Distributor firing order backwards on the Dyno, Counter Clock wise,
We had a good laugh !

Not everyone is perfect - Ask my Wife :hurray:
Timmy
 
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