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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, my name is Evan and I'm new to the forums. My father has a 1968 Camaro with a 327, it isnt an SS or RS. We gave it to my uncle for the last 9 years due to us moving overseas, but it is being shipped back to us from North Carolina.

The car is mechanically original, nothing has been done to the transmission or motor. I understand there are many different 327's, and I will not know which it is for sure until it gets here.

The first thing we are going to do is take the motor apart and start rebuilding it. While we have it apart, we are thinking we should do some stuff to produce a better sound and more power.

I'm just starting my research, but so far we are thinking:
-Different camshaft (Vodoo 60101 or 60102?)
-4bbl carb (reasonable price, decent performance)
-Different heads, if recommended to run a different camshaft (maybe vortec, or what do you suggest?)

I have no clue which heads are on it until the car arrives in a couple weeks, but I know everything on the motor is original. I would like to get around 350HP out of the motor, can some of you all help me out? Sorry for not having much info on the car, I haven't been able to look at it in years. I just want to know what I should start looking for and what will need to be replaced on the motor.

Thanks, Evan
 

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My advice would be don't go too large with the upper end if you have high gears and a auto trans such as a glide.

Some good combinations would be 10.5:1-11:1 compression, comp 280H-286H magnum, decent dual plane intake (perf rpm), holley based carb no larger than 650cfm, there is a broad choice for cylinder heads depending on how much money you want to spend, I would suggest a good after market aluminum head no larger than 170cc runners 2.02/1.60 valves, full roller rockers, some kind of long tube headers, I would say get 1-3/4".

I'm confident the .040" 327 we built has 370-380hp at the crank, similar specs to above, decked block to .015", .025" composite head gasket, 10.8:1 comp cams 286H-10 magnum, not so great after market aluminum heads that are a tad too big (190cc runners) 58cc 2.02/1.60
Pulls really hard from 2,500rpm-7,000rpm

The cams you listed are decent for a lower compression ratio, it would be better to have the lift nearing .500" to take advantage of the better cylinder heads you are going to run. The 280H is 230* @.050 with .480" lift on a 110lsa, the 286H is a step above; 236 @ .050 .490" lift on a 110lsa, both of those will get you the "sound" you are looking for. I wouldn't recommend putting the 286 in anything lower than 10.8:1-11:1 compression, especially in a 327.
 

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I wouldn't go any larger than 1-5/8" on the header primary size, and use a 2-1/2" collector.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the help, I'm pretty sure it has a glide transmission. I'm afraid that once we get the motor running strong how we want it, the transmission might go out on me. Is it worth it to rebuild the one in it, or replace it with a 4 speed auto such as the t350?

As for the carb, would the Holley Street Avenger 570cfm be appropiate for this setup? I've seen a few guys on here running that one.

And John, say I wasn't to replace the cylinder heads at this time, would I be able to run the Vodoo cam shafts I stated earlier, or would I be at risk of burning the valves or messing something up? I would rather replace the heads, but I will have to see what my pockets will let buy.

Again, thanks for the help. I'm here for to learn and hear everyone's suggestions and opinions.
 

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Evan

If it's a 2 barrel, 210 horse 327 with a glide and 2:73 gears out back you'll be wanting to change a lot of things. :D If it's a 275 horse 327 you'll have a better starting point.

Wait and see what you have to work with before putting too much thought into it.

Mark
 

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If it turns out to be the 327/210, leave everything internal in the motor (they are already equipped with the 275hp cams which is around 260* advertised duration if I remember correct), get a dual plane intake, holley carb, msd ignition, and headers. Save up for heads and cam later on, you really need different heads on the 327/210 motors, otherwise your cam choice is severely limited.
The th-350/400's are 3-speed autos
The 200r-4/700r-4's are 4-speed autos, both with over drive
 

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Welcome Evan- please post a photo or two when you are able. First mods I'd recommend are disc brakes, steering box and transmission. The powerglide suffers from having only 2 gears. More gears = more fun! good luck with it.
 

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Something else to consider, if you plan on running it hard, store the 327 and build a 350. This is what I did with mine. I figured I could build a 350, very easy to find, and if by some chance I blew it up I still would have the original engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Tom, I will get pictures up as soon as it gets in from NC, which should be within the next few weeks. I think we remember it being a 210 horsepower.

John, I think we are going to do the heads as well...but I'm not sure which heads yet. What is a reasonably priced aluminum head that would allow me to run a better cam? As for the carb, I think I'm pretty set on the Holley Street Avenger 570. As for the block itself, we are going to get it machined. Also, the transmission should still be running good, so a little bit more down the road I was thinking the th-350.

deerhunter, It actually wont be run that hard, and we want to keep the original motor in it since the car. This car has been in the family since it was a year old, and the motor has been taken care of.

So if it is the 210 horsepower and I get new heads,dual plane intake, cam, headers,exhaust, and a 4bbl carb, it should put out around 300hp maybe? I'm not going to go top of the line for the heads and everything, but I still want to get nice parts.
 

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hey texas , been doing about the same thing your fixing to do. a little at a time though for lack of money and marriage and kids . i think ace's68 hit the mark . summit has a vortec head up to .510 lift , 165 intake volume with 2.02 intake valve 1.60 exhaust for $600 a pair assembled with screw in studs . must be machined for guide plates , which is a problem if you want to run roller rockers . i found this out the hard way . partiot performance has a the cheapest aluminum ''china heads'' about the same specs but larger springs'' a little more lift'' and guide plates included about $800 assembled .i truly believe the 302 or the 327 could be the ultimate smallblock for the 1st gen camaro if built correctly .these things can rev to the moon . but with an automatic transmission i think you would be better off with a stout 350 . it all depends on what you want to do with the car and how radical you want the 327 to be . sorry this is so long , theres just to much to think about here . are you ready for 5000 clutch dumps or not .
 

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I have the 210 hp 327 in my base coupe,added msd hei,edelbrock performer,edelbrock 600 carb manuel choke,it has no problem spanking my buddies 62 impala with 350 hp 350.If you wanted a 350 couldnt you put a 350 crank in the same block??
 

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No, it is never "just a crankshaft" change. The pistons also need to be changed. True a 302,327, and a 350 are all a 4.00" bore, but each stroke is different and requires its own piston, because the piston pin is in a different location for the proper compression height.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
For the block, i talked to a machine shop yesterday and he suggested doing a .30 over bore on it while they have it. And the transmission will stay until something happens to it, or we get the money for a th-350 or muncie. But for the carb, would it be smarter to stick with the Street Avenger 570 over the 670?

I cant find that GM vortec head as a kit with those specs on summit, and that would be a cast iron head, not aluminum, correct? Is there any disadvantage to that?
 

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TJS69, thanks for that info,I have always been told the only difference was the crank.Do you know anything about the 327 crank kits that have 6 inch rods?
 

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If you build your motor similar to the specs I posted, it will run terrible with the glide and high rear end gears, you would want to get at least a 2,800 stall converter for the glide.

When you get the .030" over bore done (heck why not go .040 and get 333"?) make sure they use torque plates, and deck the block to "0" to get the quench where it needs to be.

The 570 is perfect for a 327, if you build it as hot as I posted you would benefit from a well set up holey 600-650 better.

I unfortunatley bought the patriot 58cc/190cc 2.02/1.60 al heads, they make great power but GOD did we have to do some work to get them to work right, and I'm talking their heads are WAY off, nothing lines up, the spring pockets are machined wrong... the list goes on, and on, and on.

Dart sportsman 2 heads, which I think are cast iron make good power and are cheap.
 

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Honestly, anything other than the 327/210hp heads is worth it.
Those vortec heads are great, you will need a vortec intake and different valve covers unless it's drilled for perimeter bolt.
The are 1.94 valves, which is plenty good enough for running around town, 90% of all motors built really don't need 2.02's, I suggested them in case the speed bug hits and you want to start beefing the motor up even more.
The chamber volume is 64cc's, so deck your block, and choose the right pistons and gaskets to achieve the compression ratio you want (quench can make or break power and detonation), again, 10.5:1-11:1 for a 327" is a NASTY little motor, I took a basic 327/210 motor, added the parts I posted previously, went from around 9:1 to 10.8:1, it's a totally different animal.

Throwing in a 3.48" crank or doing a 383 isn't a bad idea either, you will need different pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If I get the block machined and bored .30, wont I need to replace the pistions anyways, or just rings? I'm most likely going to go with the GM Vortec heads I listed, unless someone suggests something better for around that price. Would those heads be good to run with the Voodo 60102?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-60102/

I know there is also a 60101 or 60103, not sure which one though.
 

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You can't go wrong with a Voodoo cam ! The 60101 is a little small and the 60103 may be a little big. If the Vortec heads can support the 60103 you would be happy with it. If you bore the engine, it would be .030 over not .300. :) Yes, you will need new piston's and I would go with flat tops and a 64 cc head, to be around 9.7:1 compression. If you need an intake and center bolt valve covers anyway the vortec's are fine. One step up, I would say the RHS ProTorker's and they accept either the old bolt pattern or the newer vortec manifold bolt pattern.
 
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