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Discussion Starter #1
Got my shocks moved, so now I can get the swaybar installed.

Before I turn my rails into swiss cheese, does this look about right?

I needed to bring the mounting point in to the center a bit. Otherwise, the driver side bracket was going to clip the fuel filter if I hit a bump. I could have cut away some of the bracket to clear it. Am I better leaving the brackets where they are, or pushing them out to the ends and cutting away the edge of the bracket?



Here's what the bracket looked like if I brought it closer to the end of the bar. I think I could cut away enough to clear the filter, but if the rear end jumped more than an inch, I could be in trouble.



Driver side. I'll drill the holes a bit lower than where it sits now.


Pass side.



From the instructions, it says to get the bar parallel to the ground. With the car on jack stands, are there any tips or tricks to get it close?

I have the links as short as they'll go...should the end of the bar sit lower or higher?
 

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Dan,
I'm wanting to install a rear sway bar also. Why did you have to move your shocks?
Mine is an ADCO; what brand is yours?
Since I haven't started yet, I don't have too many answers to your question. It does look like your sway bar ends are going downhill toward the front, but you are as short as you can go on the links. Is your car jacked up by the axle or by the frame? I would think if you jack it up by the axle, it would give you the same spring compression as if the car was resting on the ground. Then you could parallel the ends with something horizontal on your car...ie. subframe, rocker trim piece or subframe connector, even door bottom. I would also call the manufacturer to see how "parallel" it's supposed to be and why the links aren't shorter. Also, it seems logical that the wider the axle mounts (for the sway bar) are, the better.
Hope this helps a little,
John
 

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Dan, I've been running Addco rear bars on my Camaro since 1970 or so. The second, replacement bar just went on. Also several on other vehicles. Let me start with this: It ain't rocket science. Your install is looking good. I see you have two holes on the outer ends of your bar. That must be for tuning. If your front still pushes then move to the rear holes to get more out of your bar. Enjoy. Oh, one inch from your fuel filter should be OK. You can install a sheet metal shield between the bracket and canister. If there is contact with the shield, it should be evident. Then you can make changes. Wanna run 'em?
 

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I agree with Fred, your install looks fine.
If the rear axle moves an inch, you have a problem.

It also appears you need to add a wedge or two between the perch and traction bar for some room at the snubber. As it looks, there is no give when going over bumps.

You gonna race Fred? I wanna watch. I have popcorn.........
 

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Thanks for the feedback. I bit the bullet and drilled the holes last weekend. The car feels a lot more solid in the rear. Going over bumps, it stays well planted to the ground and going around corners, it really feels good.

I had to move my shocks because my car was mini-tubbed and the previous owner had the shocks moved inboard AND in front of the axle. So they interfered with where the bar had to go. The bar is from Hellwig...got it from SC&C.

Really happy with how it feels now. Next project is to get a set of track wheels and maybe try to get a front spoiler on the car before hitting Sebring on April 5th.
 
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