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68 Camaro SS/RS, 454 BB 4 speed, 3.73 Posi, new paint, motor mods , trans and diff assembly. 2" Drop
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Cars now running but the old BB radiator is leaking. I started looking at aluminum ones with and without electric fans. Almost hitting a wall finding electric fans that will fit with serpentine conversion and long pump. That along with pulley to support clearance of 5-3/4 at WP and 6-1/4 at PS and ALT pullies.
Does anyone have recommendation for a good USA system that will fit? I have reached out to Griffin, Cold Case and Entrophy. I have not heard back yet from the first two in regards to specs and measurements.
 

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Any aluminum radiator with a good price and use the stock fan shroud and a 7 blade mechanical fan. If you need a reverse rotation fan they make those as well that look similar to the stock clutch fan but reversed.
 

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67 Camaro L78 M20 Convertible
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champion radiators have good 3 to 4 row radiators. They also offer with electric fans incl shroud right away..

i got their 4 row version with stock shroud, 7 blade fan, hayden heavy duty fan clutch and EMP stage 2 pump with EMP 160 thermostat in my 670 hp all iron BBC and i can do what i want, floor it for 10 min on autobahn, but water temp never goes beyond 170.. most of the time it chills at 140..
 

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1968 Camaro 1975 camaro
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When going with aluminum 3 or 4 row is holding yourself back. The benefit is you can go to 2 1" rows which has more surface area than the old 3 or 4 row brass.
I would go with a cold case if I were shopping right now.
 

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if that is degrees Fahrenheit, that is to cold for the engine. Might want to put a 180 T stat in
thanks for the tip. Actually my engine builder wants it to have a 160 thermostate.. and to never surpass 170. It idles with 160.. when cruising it goes down to 140. So its actually pretty spot on. He himself cools his engines down to 120..

I can tell by my oil temp that its alright..
 

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1969 Camaro Restomod
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Stevie... I ran into the same deal, so I went with a serpentine setup that had the compressor on the PS and a short water pump. Even with that, the design of the two billet mounts as a pass-through for the two water pump connections made it a challenge. Very tight.

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I'm using a Cold Case BBC radiator, its two tubes with 1-1/4"tubes. I think Champion and perhaps a few others make similar ones. I settled on the Ford Contour dual 12" eFans as they are used in a number of retrofit applications and everyone seemed very happy with the CFM capacity and they are reasonably shallow. I'm still trying to find the "sweet spot" balance of coolant mix (right now I'm at 50/50), EMP thermostat (180°), and PWM/Sensor (195°). I don't know how much I would benefit by changing the coolant mix to 30% coolant and 70% distilled water as John had suggested in another post, but I'm gonna try it. I don't drive much in the winter and could care less about the heater, and I've never seen my garage colder than 15° and that was only once a few years ago... usually its in the 25 and higher range through most of the Winter. Prior to putting in the serpentine setup and Vintage Air, I was running a 160° thermostat (setup from my engine builder) for several years with a 7 blade fan and the big block copper radiator. The car ran at about 175°-185° on the hottest of days unless I was stalled in traffic. If that happened, it would go up past 220° and I'd pull over and pop the hood, let it cool down a bit while whatever congestion on the road cleared up. Right now the eFans shut off when I'm driving on the highway at about 65 and engine temp drops to 195° but if I get in heavy traffic it jumps up to 210°-215° which I don't like. So I know the highway airflow is there, and my eFans generally keep the temp at 200° or below, I'd just like to see if I can tweak this setup. One of my buddies suggested adding a pusher fan because of the condenser. I'd have to grill Carl on how to add a 3rd fan LOL. Thats a last resort.

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If your out of space, consider the aluminum radiators with the 2-tube setups and if you can fit a mechanical fan try that, if not look at SPAL... expensive but supposedly they have some very good fans that are super thin... maybe its the brushless ones? My setup with the shroud is about 3-1/2" deep.
 

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thanks for the tip. Actually my engine builder wants it to have a 160 thermostate.. and to never surpass 170. It idles with 160.. when cruising it goes down to 140. So its actually pretty spot on. He himself cools his engines down to 120..

I can tell by my oil temp that its alright..
Someone set your
cooling and engine
up right
 

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68 Camaro SS/RS, 454 BB 4 speed, 3.73 Posi, new paint, motor mods , trans and diff assembly. 2" Drop
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mike,
Im leaning towards the ColdCase dual 1-1/4" tubes. I have an 18" 7 blade with compact Hayden clutch. That fit but I dont like the sound when the fans locked up, which is most of the time with the old copper/brass 4 row.
Entrophy has one thats 2- 14" low profile fans they said would fit, but $1500 is waaay more than I want to spend on a radiator.
I may try and source out some LP SPAL fans and a shroud that will fit the Coldcase. Eric here has been a great help.

Separate Notes:
Harris, your engine is running too cold. I was always taught in trade school (ok that was 40 years ago) that an internal combustion needs at least 180* F to have a complete burn in the cylinders. IIRC it was between 180-195* was the range. Too cold you will be collecting unburnt deposits on the piston and valves.

Mike, I would agree on the 70/30 mix. Im at 60/40. Years ago I went 90/10 and everything ran hot, it was like circulating oil through the cooling system.
 

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Separate Notes:
Harris, your engine is running too cold. I was always taught in trade school (ok that was 40 years ago) that an internal combustion needs at least 180* F to have a complete burn in the cylinders. IIRC it was between 180-195* was the range. Too cold you will be collecting unburnt deposits on the piston and valves.”

Incorrect......Most every professional Chevy performance engine builder dynos at 160.
 

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Separate Notes:
Harris, your engine is running too cold. I was always taught in trade school (ok that was 40 years ago) that an internal combustion needs at least 180* F to have a complete burn in the cylinders. IIRC it was between 180-195* was the range. Too cold you will be collecting unburnt deposits on the piston and valves.”

Incorrect......Most every professional Chevy performance engine builder dynos at 160.
The best performance settings for a dyno run are not likely going to be where most people want to run their engines though since most aren't just drag / track cars.
 

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Again, most all performance engine builds leave the shop @ 160*.

My 2 street driven Chevrolets have been run in the South for a combined 7+ years at 160 w/o carbon build up. Both run Holley DP.

An oft repeated internet rumor
is just that, nothing more.
 

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1968 Camaro 1975 camaro
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Again, most all performance engine builds leave the shop @ 160*.

My 2 street driven Chevrolets have been run in the South for a combined 7+ years at 160 w/o carbon build up. Both run Holley DP.

An oft repeated internet rumor
is just that, nothing more.
I would agree with this, as long as you run it hard every once in a while.
I run mine at 185 mostly due to fuel injection needing it.
Most of the time, daily drivers aren't going WOT and have carbon build up so manufactures help out by raising the temperature(which also helps emissions)
 

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Dyno pulls and tuners often do want a 160 stat so they can get more timing and full in the tune to make the "most" WOT power

but the "WOT" part is not what any street driven car sees most of the time so 185 is regarded as better for fuel burn in part throttle use....which is the majority of use for a street car

Ironically dyno guys also say...need more heat in the motor...so 2nd-3rd pulls hit a higher #

Nothing wrong with a 160 stat on a street car as a 180 will also be open in normal use...but IMHO a motor running 140 degrees F......not going to burn all the fuel. Just my $.02
 

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Why would a 180 be
open at 160 ?

BTW, 140 seems a little cool IMO
200 plus is a power robbing pizza oven.
 

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Why would a 180 be
open at 160 ?


BTW, 140 seems a little cool IMO
200 plus is a power robbing pizza oven.
not saying a 180 opens at 160. Saying "normally" both a 160 and 180 are full open on a street driven car...obviously 160 being full open sooner regarding temp

yes 200+ is robbing power but 140 is to cold
 

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68 Camaro SS/RS, 454 BB 4 speed, 3.73 Posi, new paint, motor mods , trans and diff assembly. 2" Drop
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496 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Again, most all performance engine builds leave the shop @ 160*.

My 2 street driven Chevrolets have been run in the South for a combined 7+ years at 160 w/o carbon build up. Both run Holley DP.

An oft repeated internet rumor
is just that, nothing more.
There was no internet 40 years ago!
 
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