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i have a 68 small block car and i am putting a big block in it this winter, and i was told that i would have to buy a big block heater core or modify the inlet and outlet on my exsisting one now. and i was also told that you have to be careful on what valve covers you put on because of fire wall clearence i have roller rockers so factory valve covers do not fit. would like to run some fabricated ones if would fit. and finally whats the best choice for headers i have power steering so any input would be great thanks.


bryan
 

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YOU CAN PUTTHE BB ON SMALL MOUNTS BUT THEN YOU CANT RUN TALL VALVE COVERS AS THEY WILL HIT THE BOOSTER..FACTORY VALVE COVERS WILL FIT OVER ROLLERS USING FELPRO VALVE GASKETS WITH THE STEEL INSERT..A GIRDLE WILL NOT FIT..ALWAYS GO HOOKERS OR HEDMAN www.hardcoreparts.ca
 

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The Big Block is called a big block for a reason, it is mucho bigger than the small block (in all three dimensions, plus weight). Recognizing this Chevy redesigned the heater core box on the F-body (and the X-body) originally built with the SBC in mind; to clear the increased dimensions. On the Y body (we call 'em Corvettes) they had to also had to "dimple" the driver side valve cover to clear the brake booster in order to squeeze it in.

These parts are readily available from restorers (one of whom graciously helps sponsor this board). I seriously recommend you purchase the correct parts (such as BBC frame pedestal engine mounts, the TH 400 cross member to replace a TH350, if swapping in a bigger trans etc.)

Not only will it save you hours of grief (SBC mounts put a BBC to low and push it too far back) dealing with header fitment, and distributor clearance: but any one who knows what a BBC installation should look like will see your engine is in the wrong place, you will also have drive line vibrations, and a host of other gremlins that crop up.

I ran Morroso Tall red aluminum turkey trays for years. They were so light and flimsy it was easy, even with stud girdles, to get them on and off. Of course they leaked like seeves, but clearance wasn't an issue.

Larger Dave (the Voice of Engine Swaps Past)
 

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I would suggest going with the 1969 bb engine frame mounts $75.00, and a new bb heater core and cover $130.00 for both, new (www.firstgen.com). Like pro1 said the felpro gaskets with the steel inserts should work, but I have not tried them. I decided to get a new wiper motor from Detroit Speed (www.detroitspeed.com). For about $300.00 they have a slim line motor that is a direct replacement for the factory one. It even comes with a new motor switch and knob to replace your old one in the dash. Because of it's a slim line design you can go with any height of valve covers you want. Acouple more nice things about the motor is that it gives you 2 speeds plus several, I think 5, delays and the the whole setup looks great. If you have power brakes you might run into a problem with tall valve covers and your booster. I also replaced my booster for a smaller diameter one. For headers I went with the ceramic coated Hooker competitions with 2" primaries. They fit well. I have been running them for 2 years now and they look as good now as when I bought them.

Good lucK.
 

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I put big block in my 69 cut heater core bottom outlet to diferent angle to fit. used small block mts. needed to notch front crossmember at crank- used heddmen elete series headers -fit well- no valve cover clearance problems fire wall is close for bolting up auto matic tilt motor down in back- cut outside ears off trans before installing. good luck'
 

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I put a bigblock in my 68. roller rockers will work with factory valve covers as long as they dont have the drippers. and you use crower roller rockers the stainless ones.they are pricey but well worth it.I used factory bigblock frame and motormounts for the bigblock, smallblock set the motor lower and back further. and I used hooker supercomps and the fit great with a muncie.I didint even have to dent them once. have fun 68 496
 

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I use Crane Gold roller rockers with stock valve covers, no problem. I use two gaskets, one regular and one thick. I glue the two gaskets together and let them sit overnight before installation. IMO, nothing looks worse than big, tall, ugly aftermarket valve covers in a classic first gen that is mostly stock appearing.

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I just bought a 69 X11 with 402 and a muncie. The previous owner replaced a 350. The car has drive line vibrations. I asked the previous owner if he changed the frame mounts/engine mounts and he said he did not...so it is probably sitting on 302/350 mounts. There are no power brakes. I do have tall billet valve covers to accomodate roller rockers. They barely clear the stock windshield wiper motor but they do clear. I have Hooker Super Comps with 2" primaries (coated). Also, large Mallory HEI distributor is pretty much on the firewall.

So, can anyone help me understand what is actually causing the vibration?

This is my first camaro..is there anyway to swap the frame mounts/engine mounts without completely pulling to engine?

BTW, I also intend to swap the muncie for a keisler/tremec 6 speed. I could do this at the same time if it helps.

Thanks
69OrangeTwist
 

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http://csgbenefits.org/camarovibration.pdf

Try that .pdf document. It's all about tracking down vibrations in these old cars.

I had one in my '68, was real bad. Engine balance was bad. But there are tons of things that can contribute to a vibration.......
 
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