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Discussion Starter #1
I am ready to order body mount bushings for my car. I have decided to go with poly bushings. I just cannot bring myself to install solids on a street driven car. I have read alot of old posts that recommend solids and also alot that recommend poly.

Whose poly bushings should I buy? Are they graphite impregnated or not?

Thanks,

Murph.
 

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Well I installed Energy Suspension Graphite impregnated urathane mounts. It was ok but I ended up switching to billet Aluminum and I'm much happier for it.

Good luck !

 

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Performance Suspension Technologies has a wide selection of bushings for body mount & suspension
 

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Are this solid bushings from Summit any good, or you recommend any other brand. For $43 they're kind of affordable for me. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ah yes, the dark side. David, I have read many of you post's and have been on your web site for quite a bit of reading. I am just unsure about these body bushings. I have heard so much about the solids but just don't know what to think?????

It seems to me like this will be too harsh for me. I will put about 500 miles per year on my car and it will be mainly street driven. What is the best thing to go with???

Murph

;)
 

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go solid- you WILL like it. you will barely notice them. in fact, the car wil lfeel sooo much better than with rubber bushings. why did they put bushings in there at all, anyways? the old Novas and Corvairs don't have any rubber biscuits isolating the chassis from the body, and neither do all the old unibody Fords or Mopars. just how is it a good thing to have the body floating around on the subframe like that?
 

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For only driving 500 miles a year, you will never know that they are there !!!

You want harsh, put in u-thane control arm bushings and run KYB's.....and then put 17's on it.....

Dont sweat the sub frame bushings being aluminum. If you really are only going to drive the car 500 miles a year you'll neve known they are there. I run 700lb/320lb front/rear springs with a 16" wheel and tire, Del-a-lum solid control arm bushings and re-valved Bilsteins on the street and have done so for roughly 10+ years. The ride quality is still compliant and impressive to this day. The sub frame bushings were the addition with the least physical increase of road stiffness.
 

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When I put solid GW bushings in, I noticed no increase in harshness. On the other hand, Energy Susp poly motor mounts significantly increased ' the buzz'. I drive 2000 or so miles a year and don't mind.

[ 07-06-2003, 10:39 AM: Message edited by: RickD ]
 

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Discussion Starter #10
O.K. I currently have Hotchkis/Bilstein/Energy Suspension out back and all 35 year old originals up front. I am working my way from back to front with the suspension/bushing upgrades. I plan to go with the Hotchkis springs and 1-1/8 sway bar/Bilstein/poly bushings up front. So if I go with solid on the body bushings is there a prefered supplier for them?
 

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I recomend putting in solid bushings. If you don't like them you can allways put in polly or rubber and sell the aluminum bushings to someone else. At least you tried it and have gained some knowledge on the subject.

If you can find a forum member in your area who has installed solid sub bushings, go for a ride with him and see how you like the ride.

You really don't want your subframe to move separately from the unibody. It makes the car feel sloppy. The best descriptive word I can think of is Tight, the car feels more solid, less jiggling and rattling around, which is more annoying than any supposed increase in harshness.

I've ridden in a bunch of Camaros with solid sub bushings and they rode great. As mentioned above, there are lots and lots of cars on the road without a separate subframe. Mustangs have a full unibody and I wouldn't say they are harsh riding.
David
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I was just starting to think exactly what you stated David. I'll put in the solids and see how they are. I can always go back and change them if I don't like the ride.

I have not done alot of research on installation of the solids. Will they bolt right up with the stock cage nuts in the frame? I would think so. Is Global West the best place to get these?

Murph
 

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If your body bushings were never changed and your car is all together meaning fenders - hood - doors are all on. Get ready to make adjustments after your install because it's almost a given that some panels will have to be re-aligned. I know from experience. :mad:
 

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And you better prepare yourself for some ugliness. I mean, rust\rot around the mount holes. You can reuse your old hardware but get new bolts\washers.
The solid bushings mounting flange\lip will have an outer diameter of exactly 1.5". When new, the frame's mount holes were 1.5". If they're rotted now, the frame and body can move around. Not good!
If needed, I'd repair the subframe mounting points no matter which bushings you install.
 

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Excellent point Joe! I have run into this a few times and it gets messy if that problem exists. And that would be the time to fix it........
 

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I would suggest to change the front two bushings last, and if they need to be cut down or spaced up to fit, do so. That way the front fenders will not need any adjustment. If you force the front bushings in there or have to pull the fenders down to the bushings, it will pull them out of alignment.
David
 

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And if you do have to repair, do yourself a favor and but some 1/8" plate and make them. The kits are alot of money for something simply made.
Or you can go the large washer route that some have.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I got the note on checking the frame sections for rust and damage. I will do that.

If the panels lined up in 1968 with new bushing and the bushing are now worn, shouldn't this make the panels misaligned now. When I restore the bushings back to factory height shouldn't panel alignment then return to the location from good ole 1968. Is this a stretch? What am I missing?

Murph
 
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