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Discussion Starter #1
Well it looks like I'll be posting a lot more since I just got this delivered last month. I'm a total amateur when it comes to body work and thought I would farm it off to someone somewhat local to finish it for me, but he's about a year out on work. Translation... I'm learning body work. The shell took about 9 months from deposit to delivery so I have the patience to get this done. The body only needs minor tweaking in spots and final gapping, otherwise, it's very close. I had mini tubs installed during the build too so that would be off the list. By the way, Tony at Muscle Car Metal is great to deal with if anyone needs a full or partial shell. I also chose not to have a factory sub frame included since I'm getting a pile of stuff from Chassisworks. Once I get their sub frame bolted in I'll start on the gaps.

I figured you all might find these interesting.

Here's a pic of the shell prior to delivery just before it was loaded on the enclosed trailer in the background.


Post delivery pics. I also got a trailer dolly to pull the body around which make it a very easy one-man operation. I had spare square tubing laying around and welded a smaller piece on for the handle. Good to go.



































 

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X2! Very nice. Maybe at a later date, you could move this thread over to Build Projects.
 

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Well it looks like I'll be posting a lot more since I just got this delivered last month. I'm a total amateur when it comes to body work and thought I would farm it off to someone somewhat local to finish it for me, but he's about a year out on work. Translation... I'm learning body work. The shell took about 9 months from deposit to delivery so I have the patience to get this done. The body only needs minor tweaking in spots and final gapping, otherwise, it's very close. I had mini tubs installed during the build too so that would be off the list. By the way, Tony at Muscle Car Metal is great to deal with if anyone needs a full or partial shell. I also chose not to have a factory sub frame included since I'm getting a pile of stuff from Chassisworks. Once I get their sub frame bolted in I'll start on the gaps.

I figured you all might find these interesting.


Congrats. Coming from Tony you know its done right and won't need a ton of tweaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. It should be an experience for sure. Couple of questions...

I need to get a good air powered DA sander. Any recommendations?

What should the height of the door be in relation to the rear quarter? Both sides are like this pic where the door is higher. My concern is if I drop it to try to make it flush then the contour line will be way off. I don't want to go down too many rabbit holes with trying to make things perfect.
 

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Thanks guys. It should be an experience for sure. Couple of questions...

I need to get a good air powered DA sander. Any recommendations?

What should the height of the door be in relation to the rear quarter? Both sides are like this pic where the door is higher. My concern is if I drop it to try to make it flush then the contour line will be way off. I don't want to go down too many rabbit holes with trying to make things perfect.
Hey Brian. For the gaps and body lines I'd hit up the search function on the site. There are a ton of good threads on it. Also, there are a lot of build threads where guys are tackling all kinds of gap issues and they come up with some great ways of fixing it. My guess is that you'll end up being able to drop the door down to level it with the quarter. Without seeing it from all angles, it's pretty tough to tell where you have to give and take moving the door around or if you have slice and dice something.
 

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I would leave the door gap alone. Once you install the window,tracks and other guts the weight will bring it down to about even with the quarter
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good point about the additional weight. I'll keep that in mind, as well as hit the search function for more detailed info. Meanwhile, FedEx just dropped off the front brakes today as my parts start to trickle in, but can't do a thing until that sub frame arrives. Will update more if I can't find via search.

 

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I have a question about the body you purchased, was it a Refurbished Body Shell for $12,500? I am contemplating wether it's worth having mine re-done completely or just buy a shell and transfer everything and sell my shell to recover some of the costs. An estimate I recieved to restore mine to primer was $10,500. But it could go higher as everyone knows. I do not do body work or welding but do all other mechanical. What are others opinion on this route of the Refurbished Body Shell?

Thanks,
Greg
 

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Wow! What a great way to start! With a nice clean chassis. I envy you.

Good luck on your build. The learning curve will be pretty steep for the first bit. Take your time and ask lots and this will be a saving in the long run. Just watch the budget as it can get away on you.

capt
 

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I would leave the door gap alone. Once you install the window,tracks and other guts the weight will bring it down to about even with the quarter
Shouldn't move if your hinges are good. I think most guys set their gaps on door shells.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have a question about the body you purchased, was it a Refurbished Body Shell for $12,500? I am contemplating wether it's worth having mine re-done completely or just buy a shell and transfer everything and sell my shell to recover some of the costs. An estimate I recieved to restore mine to primer was $10,500. But it could go higher as everyone knows. I do not do body work or welding but do all other mechanical. What are others opinion on this route of the Refurbished Body Shell?
Thanks,
Greg
No, because the refurbished shell only doesn't include the front end. I got a full roller, http://www.musclecarmetal.com/home2.asp , minus the rolling parts, no suspension, etc. I sold my other '69 a short while ago and wanted another one to start that had a solid base. For me, this route was less because buying another car just to toss half the stuff and repair who knows what on the body would cost much more in the long run. A few parts on my car are refurbished. For example, the inner cage is all refurbished from an original so I could get the VIN and title the car. Same with smaller parts like the door hinges which MCM felt rebuilt originals are best.

Anyway, another option for you might be to have you car delivered to him to replace only the parts that need done and have them fitted while you're at it. If he has a delivery near you he can pick up your car on the way home too.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wow! What a great way to start! With a nice clean chassis. I envy you.

Good luck on your build. The learning curve will be pretty steep for the first bit. Take your time and ask lots and this will be a saving in the long run. Just watch the budget as it can get away on you.

capt
Yeah... about the budget.. oh well. I think's it now become a ballpark number.

I know I'll have plenty of questions but mostly centered around technique on the best way to do something. Where to make the least intrusive slice to move the metal a certain way. Things like that. Also, the amount of options in body filler land is very confusing. I've already spent multiple hours with the search button with varying results.

I'll get into the body work more once I have the subframe installed and the rear gLink suspension bolted/welded in along with the FAB9 housing.
 

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Following....good looking starting block :beers:
 

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Shouldn't move if your hinges are good. I think most guys set their gaps on door shells.
When setting unloaded door elevation, I hang a weight on the door. It will move even with perfect hinges. Flawless gaps are achieved using numerous methods and modifications, while being aware of geometry, panel edge dive and clearance issues.
 

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When setting unloaded door elevation, I hang a weight on the door. It will move even with perfect hinges. Flawless gaps are achieved using numerous methods and modifications, while being aware of geometry, panel edge dive and clearance issues.
Good to know Scott. I didn't realize that. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
What's a realistic weight to hang from the door? 15 or 20lbs? I can put dumbell inside each door to simulate the full weight of the door and have it settle in.
 

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subscribing to follow this along as I'm working on a 69 firebird at the moment and would have loved to know about Muscle Car Metal earlier on. Never know when I'll need another project!
 

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What was the cost of the complete shell? What do you do for a VIN? How will you get it titled and registered with DMV? Thats a total new car. Awesome.....
 
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