[speedfreek]

14015445...454.......78-90...2 bolt. Looking to make 700hp. I got this from a guy who absolutely knows nothing about chevy v8's. He's a rice burner fan.

The engine is spotless, the cam failed and has metal throughout block. Question: should I "freshen up" bottom end and spend the money on solid roller and heads (I will have complete engine) or build stroker bottom and wait on heads? I'm limited on money.

 

[South Side Goons & Hitmen]

speedfreek,

I went through a similar situation way back in 1991. I bought a 396 from a friend of mine who got it from his uncle. It was complete carb to pan and I paid $200 for it. It was a 4 bolt main. I had the engine "freshened up". I was surprised to find how clean it was inside. The only issue was it had a slightly bent connecting rod. I figured since it came with an extra cylinder head, the thing probably blew a head gasket and as we all know you can't compress liquid.

If you are limited on funds, I would wait until you can do the whole thing. Back when I was a kid, we had the engine checked. The crank was machined but nothing special. I went .030 over on the pistions. The heads were cleaned up and ported. I could not afford all roller drive train so I went with a good hydraulic valve train, a higher compression ratio & bigger cam. This is not 1991 or 1992 when I put the engine in the car. You can't build a 400HP or 500HP engine for $1,500 or have it dyno'ed complete car to pan for $3 grand. That was alot of money even then.

Save up and do it right all at one. I learned this the hard way over the years, If you really want it in the car bad, build the bottom end and wait on the
heads. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[67 Plum]

Build a solid 496 bottom end and upgrade the heads later.Good heads and a solid roller on a stock bottom is asking for trouble.

 

[77wolf10.85]

Yup. Build a stroker. Then heads later, and when you change heads you'll know how much bang for your buck you're getting by your ET's.
Tim

 

[pdq67]

A 496 will make 550hp easy, so 700 is stretching it almost out of the street engine category.

A good old CC 288AR solid lifter street roller cam will get up around 650 depending .....

pdq67

 

[speedfreek]

Build a solid 496 bottom end and upgrade the heads later.Good heads and a solid roller on a stock bottom is asking for trouble.

Yup. Build a stroker. Then heads later, and when you change heads you'll know how much bang for your buck you're getting by your ET's.
Tim

Ok, this ^^ is what I'll do. Does anyone want a full rotating assembly? How much should I ask for it?

 

[brandonc707]

700HP no way, unless you use a procharger or 15 to 1 compression
neither of which would make a two bolt main lower end happy!!
I built a 13to1 427, 700lift roller and some porting work to 990 heads, thinking I would have 750 horsepower. My engine builder laughed at me and said maybe 600?? We built it and the dyno said 602HP
Dont worry about horsepower #s just build about a 10 to 1 motor for the street and go have fun with it!!

 

[RyanS]

Car Craft March Issue built an inexpensive 10:1 496 with AFR 305 heads and a comp cams 292 solid roller cam. It dynoed 707 HP and 603 Ft/lbs torque.

Nothing fancy, cast crank even, but they did have $6750 in it when they were all said and done.

It can be done.

Ryan

 

[speedfreek]

Car Craft March Issue built an inexpensive 10:1 496 with AFR 305 heads and a comp cams 292 solid roller cam. It dynoed 707 HP and 603 Ft/lbs torque.

Nothing fancy, cast crank even, but they did have $6750 in it when they were all said and done.

It can be done.

Ryan

Thank you. My machine shop does them all of the time with over 800hp on pump gas, but that's around 540ci. They said 700 is no problem.

 

[pdq67]

Right, no problem, but it's just gonna be kinda "knarly" for a street engine to me is all..

pdq67

 

[wiskeesour]

My SBC was knarly for the street but WAY fun to drive!! Just over 600hp to the rear wheels....

 

[speedfreek]

If there is any concern about the 2 bolt mains, what do yall think about converting it to 4 bolt?

 

[77wolf10.85]

2 ways to answer that
1.
If you answer this question yes, then yes 4 bolt...Are you going to run H bearings? That's what tipped the scales for me to spend the money to 4 bolt mine last one I did. There is no connection, but to me if I was malicious enough to need hardened bearings I was malicious enough to need 4 bolt caps.
2.
Power adder, yes 4 bolt.
Naturally aspirated, weigh that decision by A)how mean you plan to be to it, and B) how much money you put in all your other pieces. Not much left when the bottom takes a dump.

4 bolting is not cheap, most engines don't need it, and in the wrong hands a good block can be ruined in the attempt. Also there's lots of good blocks out there that aren't good enough to 4 bolt. They can hurt your feelings pretty bad when they tell you "your block isn't worth the investment, I've got a better one sittin here I'll sell for 300" or however much.
Tim

 

[350splayedcaps]

Ok. I'd take the 454 and freshen it up. Never hurts, right? lol However, I agree with the one guy about the two bolt main on the bottom end of the crank. I'd spend the extra money and make it a splayed 4 bolt 454. That would help hold 700 hp. As for the person saying stay with a cast crank... "are you nuts?!" I know some cast cranks are rated to over 500 hp. My buddies 05' GTO cast crank is rated up to 1000. However, with the mods to get 700 ponies...I'd splay it and spend a little extra with a forged bottom end...crank, rods, pistons...etc. just to be safe. "Don't wanna blow some **** up going down the road, right?" I know it's expensive and will take some time. But, you'd be glad you did it in the end.

 

[77wolf10.85]

What rotating assembly are you selling?

 

[RyanS]

I never said anything about staying with cast crank, that is just what they had for the Car Craft magazine build. I have and would recommend a 4340 steel forged crank. I used an Eagle one in my 505 build. Eagle H beam rods and JE / SRP forged pistons. As far a converting it to a splayed 4 bolt, do it it you have the money. I just used a 2 bolt stud kit. A friend of mine that builds a lot of BBC's and races them as well, builds and has used many 2 bolt blocks with a stud kit. He has never had one fail at the main cap. These are 13:1 race motors that spin to 7400, 7500. So like I said if you have the money to spend and want to do it fine. Alot of people do it. I have no problem using the the 2 bolt with a stud kit.

Ryan

 

[speedfreek]

What rotating assembly are you selling?

The stock 454 bottom end. Crank, rods, pistons, flywheel and balancer. Crank is R.020- M.010

 

[77wolf10.85]

I was hoping it was your 383, if you are going to Bigblock.
I have a longterm budget 383 build I've been buying parts for.
Thanks
Tim

 

[PROZ11]

Just an FYI on the 2 / 4 bolt mains thing. I ran a 671 Blower overdriven 12% making about 10 psi of boost with a 2 bolt main 468 cuin big block for about 9 years on the street with no issues. And, I was far from easy on it. 2 bolt big blocks are fine for all but the most radical street motors. I did use a forged crank and rods. Don't be afraid to run that 2 bolt block.

 

[speedfreek]

Just an FYI on the 2 / 4 bolt mains thing. I ran a 671 Blower overdriven 12% making about 10 psi of boost with a 2 bolt main 468 cuin big block for about 9 years on the street with no issues. And, I was far from easy on it. 2 bolt big blocks are fine for all but the most radical street motors. I did use a forged crank and rods. Don't be afraid to run that 2 bolt block.

Thanks PROZ11, thats what I like to hear. I'll go with ARP studs for good insurance!:yes: