The only problem is that you really should replace the braided hose every couple of years. The rubber liner deteriorates just like the cheap rubber stuff you get at the parts store. The problem with the steel braided stuff is that you can't see the rubber deteriorating on the outside.
Having worked on Military Aircraft for 16 years, We only change out Steel braided lines when they fail (unless the line is made of synthetic materials, then there is a forced removal date). I have been running them on my cars for more than 7 years without a failure and I run it in all kinds of whether.
There is also several companies who manufacture braided line, Earls, Russel, Areoquip are just a couple.
All you need to cut the line is some duct tape (to wrap the line where you cut it to keep it from fraying) and a fine tooth hachsaw. Then slip the fittings on and screw them together. Afterwards clean it out with some mild cleaner.
That is a great point! I was a helicopter crew chief for 4 year, several years back, and never thought of that! We only changed them on failure as well and man did we run some pressure / fluids through em'! All our lines were pre cut and fitted so I never had to "build" em'. Ahhh, the good life!
Who makes the lines you are using and do you have any idea who makes the lines for the aircraft?
the sizing of braided hose is done in 1/16th inch increments. -6=6/16ths or 3/8.-8=1/2 ,etc.
-8 seems to be a good size for lines. even if you don't need the capacity now, it will be there if you do step up the power.
1971 Nova(looks like 69 camaro from underneath!)
355sb, vortec heads, HOT cam,T-10 tranny, 3.70 gears 16" IROC wheels
One thing to think about is that there are all kinds of braded hose. Some has a liner inside the hose to lengthen the life. I doubt the hose sold to racers is anywhere near the quality of hose that is used on military aircraft.
I plumbed my vintage car in Russell hose origonally. I found frayed wires as I ran my hands along the hose, and parts fo the hose rubber was squeezed out between the brading showing that it was perhaps braded too tight.
I have a piece of this hose that curves on a tight radius between the carbs and after about four years I get a leak. Even straight sections would leak after 5 years.
I have since swtiched to Aeroquip and found it to be of higher quality and reliablility, I've had no failures with the Aeroquip.
I would stick with the Aeroquip brand hose. I suspect some of the other hose is cheap aircraft reject stuff.
I don't particularly like running hose all the way from rear to front, I'd use tubing like the stock setup uses. That's just my preference.
Aeroquip is made to a higher standard because they are a main supplier to the Aircraft industry and are held to the A/N (Army/Navy) Milspec.
Some of our lines are lined with a teflon tubing to prevent bursting (ie brake lines) and some are made of synthetic (ie Oxygen lines). But most of our oil and fuel lines are natural rubber and have been in place since the A/C was made.
I would use care in routing the lines as with any but I would not hesitate to go from tank to carb with steel braided lines.
Stainless steel is very brittle when you try to flare it and can crack or split. it is also hard to bend. We use alot of seamless aluminum tube were the pressure's permit (ussually below 2000 psi)
I know you military guys might have experience on aircraft hydraulic hoses, but everything I have ever read on the use of steel braided hose in the fuel system says that it must be replaced just like regular rubber. If it is regular rubber on the inside, how does the steel braiding on the outside keep the inside of the hose from rotting out? I think the difference is in the application - gas is different than hydraulic fluid.
With fuel hoses and carbs a foot away from my head, I am more careful than most.
Here is the url for Aeroquip. http://www.aeroquip.com/pages/techinfo.html
My experience with the Russell hose was worse than stock hose in my opinion. Kinda soured me on braded hose. The Aeroquip hose is looking better.
Over time, from all of the experience shared here, I decided to use the stock metal line and used the Aeroquip blue hose at the tank end and carb end. I still have the braided from the pump ( mechanical ) to the carb inlets but consider the periodic replacement cost part of my safety expense.
69 RS Conv,355,M20,4.10's
I've used Aeroquip fittings and braided hose on every car I've built for many years with no problems, no leaks, no deterioration. I always use 3/8" seamless aluminum tubing for the main runs, with braided hose for the end connections where relative motion exists. Just make sure there's no contact between the braiding and any other hoses/lines, as the braiding is very abrasive and can wear a hole in just about anything. I wouldn't think about using any other brand but Aeroquip - not cheap, but the best seldom is.
The original plain steel tubing used in my Camaro survived 32 years of Michigan weather before leaking. It's a whole lot cheaper than that braided hose stuff too. I picked up a flaring tool, a couple pieces of 3/8" steel tubing and I'm good to go for another 32 years - and still have money left to make the car go faster.
To each his own I suppose . . . Just my .02
68 Camaro, 383 small block with TH350 trans. 12.4's and never trailered.
I'm just throwing this out there as a guess on the replacement of the braided lines over time. If the rubber on the inside were to begin to deteriorate, it seems that this would lead to clogged fuel filters and ultimately, problems with the way the car runs. Seems like this would be the cue to change the lines long before they wore completely through and burst. I have had braided lines on a supercharged car I've owned for 13 years now with no problems at all.
Actually there is a braided steel line with a Teflon inner hose ( not the Buna N rubber )that should never go bad or wear out. Earls perfomance and Aeroquip both have Teflon hose systems. The cost is about 25% more than the Buna N rubber hose and the fittings are all steel ( the fitings dont mar when wrenched and are way harder to cross thread and strip on assembly ). Somebody made a post stating they worked on helicopters and ran hoses with very high pressures these were Teflon hoses and are the only type of hose that is suitable for brake lines and power steering lines. The Teflon hoses can be cut much easier ( Hammer and chisel worked for me when I did fabrication on SCCA Trans-Am cars in the 80s ). The assembly is also easier because they use a ferrule system like the mechanical oil guage line. You may want to order extra ferrules if you go this route and also stay with one suppliers hose end system. Good luck!
A forum community dedicated to 1st generation Chevy Camaros owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, restoration, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, reviews, and more!