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Discussion Starter #1
Just replaced my master cylinder/proportioning valve and ran new lines front to back. I bench bled the MC before putting it on. I don't yet have the engine in the car and the brake pedal is of course rock hard and does not depress at all.

What's the best way to bleed the brakes if I can't get any action through the pedal? I've also put speed bleeders on all 4 corners as well. Thanks!
 

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The brake pedal should not be rock hard. It should practically be flopping up and down with empty lines. Something is wrong.
 

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With no vacuum you should be able to press the pedal. Sounds like something is binding the pedal. You can bleed without the engine running.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks. What could be causing the issue? The MC bench bled OK and the valve actioned back and forth to get the air out. Only think left would be the rod?

I thought that the pedal needed vacuum to operate? Before I changed everything over, I remember the pedal being hard when the car was off, but softened up when the car was running. I have a booster.
 

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Loosen the MC from the booster and see if you can move the pedal at all.

Was this all operational with another MC?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Loosen the MC from the booster and see if you can move the pedal at all.

Was this all operational with another MC?
Yes. I replaced it with pretty much the same unit from Right Stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK, so I loosened up the booster and now I'm getting some pedal travel. Not sure what could be binding, as its a pretty simple operation. I'll have to take it all the way off and see if there is an obstruction.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Incorrect intermediate rod length if the system worked properly before the repair. Int. rod is the one between the booster and MC. Correct brake component terminology is here: Camaro Chassis - Suspension, Axle, Brakes, & Wheels
Thanks Scott. What I know is that the car had a disc upgrade in the front which is probably 10 years old or so. I don't see any markings on the MC, so not sure it was original to the car, but the original proportioning block was there, which I've replaced with the valve.

How would I go about figuring out the correct rod for this MC? I can call Right Stuff tomorrow, but any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

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If you have the old MC, compare the depth of the recess on the MCs that the push rod goes into. I had a similar issue several years ago and it turned out one had a "deep" recess and other didn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just pulled the MC off the studs, and the push rod coming out of the booster is kind of frozen there. It won't go in, just stuck. Seems like I remember it going all the way in at one point when I was changing the MC over. I'm assuming that it should go in and out freely?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
OK, so I might know what the issue is...? The MC came with a small bullet looking fitting that goes into the bore of the MC. I installed it and was pushing on it to bench bleed. If I have a longer booster pushrod, should I be using this fitting? Or is the fitting just for shorter pushrods? I'm thinking if I take it out, I should be good to go, as I don't recall my old MC having a fitting like this. I was looking at the directions that Classic Performance sends out with its MCs and it mentions a similar 'adaptor' for short or long pushrods.

Can anyone confirm this?
 

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I just installed a right stuff power disc brake conversion kit with new lines as well. Right stuff tech support was very helpful and explained the bullet fitting is to be used with the short intermediate rod - that is what I used. You may also use the long rod without the bullet fitting, (that would be normal for a manual drum brake setup). You cannot use the long intermediate rod with the bullet fitting as I think you have currently.

I think that explains the hard pedal.

So just switch to the shorter rod and you should be ok.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just installed a right stuff power disc brake conversion kit with new lines as well. Right stuff tech support was very helpful and explained the bullet fitting is to be used with the short intermediate rod - that is what I used. You may also use the long rod without the bullet fitting, (that would be normal for a manual drum brake setup). You cannot use the long intermediate rod with the bullet fitting as I think you have currently.

I think that explains the hard pedal.

So just switch to the shorter rod and you should be ok.

Good luck!
Thanks James. I think that I'll just take out the bullet fitting since I have a long intermediate rod. I believe that's how the old MC was setup, so should be good to go. Any reason why you would switch the rod out instead?
 

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You cannot use a short rod on manual brakes. Otherwise you should be ok.
 

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Thanks James. I think that I'll just take out the bullet fitting since I have a long intermediate rod. I believe that's how the old MC was setup, so should be good to go. Any reason why you would switch the rod out instead?
As I recall....tech support said either will work. I ended up using the bullet and short shaft, however removing the bullet and using the long intermediate shaft will work fine.
 
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