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1969 Z28
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m trying to remove my brake booster and it’s proving to be difficult. Clearance, rust, you know the deal. Is there some trick to it, should I remove the hood and hinge to get to it? I’m using a regular combination wrench to remove the nuts, should I be using something else?
 

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1968 Camaro LS3 TH400
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Reversible Ratchet wrench might be a good choice, but I can’t say with the hood on. It is a tight spot….
maybe you could coax a friend into helping remove the hood? Just be sure to make some reference marks to re align it.
The pin through the brake pedal is the one I dread, but it’s because I’m not as flexible as I once was.
 

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1969 Z28
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was able to contort myself and somehow loosen them. What’s the deal with the pin in the brake pedal?
 

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The booster is connected to the brake pedal with a clevis and pin. should be in the lower hole for power brakes.

The booster won't come off unless you disconnect it from the brake pedal.
 

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The pin is easier to remove with the seat out, but is doable if you're limber.
Us old guys can't bend like we used to.
The thought of getting under there makes me remember what feels like to pull a back muscle.
Maybe i should just have another beer and ponder the prospect of whether to remove the seat or not. This is why it takes so long to get **** done. 😐
 
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The seat is easily pulled out. Takes about 3 minutes to remove the 4 bolts and lift it out.
 

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I find a ratchet box wrench that pivots works well to get the 4 booster nuts off. I leave the hood on.

Maybe because I have seat extenders I can get to under dash to remove the clevis pin out. Yeah somewhat of a PIA laying down backwards but doable

As mentioned though there are just 4 bolts holding seat in so it only take a few minutes to pull it out

wrench like this

tekton-box-end-wrenches-wrn77103-64_1000.jpg (1000×1000) (homedepot-static.com)
 

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The booster is connected to the brake pedal with a clevis and pin. should be in the lower
hole for power brakes.

The booster won't come off unless you disconnect it from the brake pedal.
Nope. Goes in the lower hole for power brakes.
 

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A few years ago I tried several times with several types of wrenches and even some different penetrants and a couple breaker bars on my '68 and none of the four booster nut would budge at all. From what I can see down there, they don't look rusty, overly dirty or damaged in any way. No, I have not removed the hood. I would like to get the factory booster restored some day.
 

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You can get a new booster from $75 to $200 depending if you want the Delco marking or not, got my last one from Speedway. Take the master cylinder loose from the booster then the 4 bolts from the firewall. 2 bottom ones you can remove with a ratchet, the top with a open end ratchet wrench. No need to take the hood off. Disconnect the clip from the clevis pin that holds the pedal to the booster. I am a 170lb skinny guy so I do not need to remove the seat. If you don't have an AIM manual, you should get one as it has diagrams for each component
 

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I use gear wrenches. Never a problem with the hood on. I’m still pretty flexible for 70 years old. Just hurts a lot the next day. Oh well I actually like pain. Make you feel alive. Haha
 
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1968 Camaro LS3 TH400
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A few years ago I tried several times with several types of wrenches and even some different penetrants and a couple breaker bars on my '68 and none of the four booster nut would budge at all. From what I can see down there, they don't look rusty, overly dirty or damaged in any way. No, I have not removed the hood. I would like to get the factory booster restored some day.
Everything is rebuildable, but most of us don’t go to the trouble to search out a matter such as this.
It’s a matter of convenience, and knowledge.
The man that ran the Exxon, where I worked,rebuilt water pumps, but you don’t see any of us do that.
 

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Everything is rebuildable, but most of us don’t go to the trouble to search out a matter such as this.
It’s a matter of convenience, and knowledge.
The man that ran the Exxon, where I worked,rebuilt water pumps, but you don’t see any of us do that.
Agreed, many don't do that. However, when possible, I have been attempting to restore my '68 to originality. I've been replacing incorrect parts I put on over the past 52 years with correct ones or attempt to restore the old parts to near-new condition. In the case of my booster, I have not yet seen a repro or rebuild that is exactly like my factory original. I even have a new repro one in a box and have decided not to use it.... if I can ever get the original loosened. Like you, I would not rebuild a water pump either. I'm on my third over the years and the one on it now is a very good repro. A lot of the fun of the car for me these days is finding the correct parts.

I often wished I had rebuilt my original alternator, master cylinder, and Quadrajet instead of swapping them out with parts store rebuilds back in the day. But it's been fun locating the correct part numbers and close date codes to get them back to numbers correct.
 
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