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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed a new brake booster and found out that the clutch linkage (I think it’s called the z bar) contacts the bottom of the brake booster when operating the clutch. Looking at the previous one it looks like that may have happened to it as well. Any recommended remedies? Can I shim the bottom bolts on the brake booster with washers and still have it operate correctly? It’s not contacting by much.
 

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I installed a new brake booster and found out that the clutch linkage (I think it’s called the z bar) contacts the bottom of the brake booster when operating the clutch. Looking at the previous one it looks like that may have happened to it as well. Any recommended remedies? Can I shim the bottom bolts on the brake booster with washers and still have it operate correctly? It’s not contacting by much.
Is the pushrod in the proper hole on the pedal. Power and Manual use a different leverage point. Another thread just addressed this.
 

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Looks right to me. What type of booster did you use..?? Send a pix of the booster how it mounts to firewall. You should not have any interference.
M
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Looks right to me. What type of booster did you use..?? Send a pix of the booster how it mounts to firewall. You should not have any interference.
M
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I did not buy the brake booster personally, when I bought the car a month ago it was among the numerous parts that I purchased with it. Looking through the paperwork I found an order form from heartbeat city that included the following in the link below. I’m assuming it’s the same one. The previous owner is deceased so I can not verify. See this link--->
 

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Hmmmm, looks OK there too. What is hitting the booster,, the rod or the ZBar?
Hard to be certain with those pix. If I get a chance, tomorrow I will try to get some pix of mine to compare.
M
 

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assuming the Z bar/clutch linkage is on right....and body mounts are not worn flattened you could just grind that conflicting arm a little if it is "just" making contact

wrong motor mounts/stands would also raise the motor...thus making the Z bar mounting point higher
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It could be different motor mounts, since this camaro has a 327 swapped in it. Also the body mounts may be flattened, my uncle (previous owner) bought replacements. I ended up fixing the problem without grinding the top of the arm, which I had planned to do. I loosened the nuts to the booster and put tension on it with a ratchet strap and it picked it up just enough for the arm to clear, which it didn’t need much.
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You have to be kidding.

Are you sure you have the right Z bar and that it's correctly installed?

I'll look at mine tomorrow.
 

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It could be different motor mounts, since this camaro has a 327 swapped in it. Also the body mounts may be flattened, my uncle (previous owner) bought replacements. I ended up fixing the problem without grinding the top of the arm, which I had planned to do. I loosened the nuts to the booster and put tension on it with a ratchet strap and it picked it up just enough for the arm to clear, which it didn’t need much. View attachment 281207 View attachment 281208
Not sure if a garage door hinge can take much tension, but if your body mounts are "flattened", it would be a priority on my to do list.
 

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I took a look at my Z-bar to brake booster clearance and I can put a finger between the two at their closest. There is no interference. Granted, I have a 67 which may be a different year than your car. It has regular body bushings that have been replaced years ago.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Not sure if a garage door hinge can take much tension, but if your body mounts are "flattened", it would be a priority on my to do list.
It was merely to lift up the unbolted brake booster and only held the weight of the booster and master cylinder, I made sure the garage door didn't flex or bend or anything like that. Probably not the smartest thing to do but I was being careful while I was doing something weird. Thank you for your suggestion about the body mounts, they're the originals and my uncle had purchased replacements probably because he knew they were bad and intended to replace them. I have no doubt they are probably flat, GM never expected them to last 50+ years, they thought these would all be in a landfill by the end of the 1970's.


I took a look at my Z-bar to brake booster clearance and I can put a finger between the two at their closest. There is no interference. Granted, I have a 67 which may be a different year than your car. It has regular body bushings that have been replaced years ago.
Thank you very much, I really appreciate it. I expect these two things to have some reasonable amount of clearance but apparently mine hardly has any, either because the body mounts are flat, the motor was swapped, or maybe it's the wrong Z bar entirely. Interestingly, the brake booster I removed had had the same clearance problem judging by the wear mark on the bottom of the booster from the clutch linkage, and it's probably the original booster, so maybe this was from the swapped motor which happened many years ago. I will have to do more research in the future. For now this is still in the "get it to drive" phase of the project because it hasn't been on the road since about 1986.
 

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Thank you for your suggestion about the body mounts, they're the originals and my uncle had purchased replacements probably because he knew they were bad and intended to replace them. I have no doubt they are probably flat, GM never expected them to last 50+ years, they thought these would all be in a landfill by the end of the 1970's.
it hasn't been on the road since about 1986.
Make sure you soak the body mount bolts in penetrating oil (above the cage nuts) for a couple days. I would even remove the front seats and pull back the carpet to gain access to the back ones. Here's a video of the procedure......
 

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Make sure you soak the body mount bolts in penetrating oil (above the cage nuts) for a couple days. I would even remove the front seats and pull back the carpet to gain access to the back ones. Here's a video of the procedure......
Never mentioned steering column. Can't drop DS without loosening column.
 
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