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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good Monday all - I have a 1968 Camaro inline 6 250. I replaced the battery, cables, water pump and thermostat recently. I seem to have missed something because before this work everything did work, now my Brake / Hazard / Turn Signal lights work
but
my Dash & Running Lights do not....
On the battery, I have a thin wire coming off the Negative post cable that goes to the frame
On the battery, I have a thin wire coming off the Positive post cable that connects to a wire wrapped up in other wires that seems to go towards the fuse panel.
(if this is disconnected, car won't start, NO lights will work at all)
(it does appear that is might stop at some sort of regular on the way)

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Any ideas?
thanks!
TFI
 

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On the old positive cable, the small lead should connect to a junction block very close to the battery and it’s mounted on the radiator core support. You might want to put the old cable back on to retrace your steps and see what happens. You could have a defective cable, due to poor workmanship.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
good morning ff,
did you mean the negative cable? because currently I have the negative "small lead" going to the radiator support along with another wire that comes from one of the lights.
The positive "small lead" goes to, I'm not sure, I will have to trace that one.......
Of course, I did hold on to all the old stuff, until I thought everything was working correctly.... but I through out the old stuff already...... should have held on just a little longer...
thanks for your reply.
don
 

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Check your Tail 20 Amp fuse in fuse box. Dash lights and headlights get power through it. Then power goes through the headlight switch to get to the lights.
 

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Al - Waterloo, Iowa
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good morning ff,
did you mean the negative cable? because currently I have the negative "small lead" going to the radiator support along with another wire that comes from one of the lights.
The positive "small lead" goes to, I'm not sure, I will have to trace that one.......
Of course, I did hold on to all the old stuff, until I thought everything was working correctly.... but I through out the old stuff already...... should have held on just a little longer...
thanks for your reply.
don
The positive "small lead" that appears to be striped bare in your pic, should go to a terminal block on the front side of the rad support. From there another wire (typically red 10ga.) goes to the horn relay. I see a small gage wire laying across the top of your battery. That wire is probably/possibly a jumper wire that would make the connection from the positive "small lead" to the terminal block I'm talking about in my first sentence. Proceed with caution as your wiring may have been hacked over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
"The positive "small lead" that appears to be striped bare in your pic, should go to a terminal block on the front side of the rad support. From there another wire (typically red 10ga.) goes to the horn relay."
**** I connected this positive "small lead" to "I see a small gage wire laying across the top of your battery."
**** if I don't connect this, car won't even turn over, NO lights work
**** if I do connect it, which I did, car starts, head lights work
**** I will follow just where this wire goes and ends up

I went to NAPA today to get some 20A fuses, there were out. I will get one tomorrow and try changing that out as suggested by Georgia68 above.

I will update this tread after testing this....

thank you all so far....
 

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I'm betting you can find a free wiring diagram for the running lights somewhere on this site.

As you said along with others, there is that red lead off of the battery post (positive) that connects to a junction point at the firewall (passenger side. I believe this should be a fusible link type wire. From there a longer 10 gauge red wire runs to the horn relay. From there is another fusible link that goes to the fuse box. As OP stated, if any of this was bad/missing, the car would not start, and no electrical functions from fuse panel would be working.
You're going to try a new fuse; if that does not work, it may be the headlight switch, as that would be the next point from the fuse panel where the parking lights get power from.

Would seem odd thought that all worked prior to you changing the water pump and thermostat. Could you have left off a ground strap anywhere around that area?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi All, sorry for the delay, I know you are all waiting to hear from me :0)
I replaced the 20a fuse, as I took it out it broke right in my hand... see pic.
Wood Beige Metal Font Concrete


after that I tried the running / parking lights.... NO GO.

Next I will trace the wire and see where they lead me to.

One question,
are the running lights and dash lights on the same fuse?

thank you all for the help...

"I'll beeee baaaak"
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Here's the latest,
after replacing fuse, turning running lights on / off.... and still not working,

I took a look at the fuse panel....
the new fuse blew.....
I took that blown fuse out.....
connect a tester to one side of the fuse bracket, and touched the other side with the tester...
no light,
when I turn the running lights on or the head lights on... I get light in my tester....
so,

switch is working....
power is getting there..... to the fuse panel socket.... and controlled by the light switch.

I must have a short somewhere?
right?

bad ground somewhere?

any ideas....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Okay all,
I did some more testing,
took battery completely out to make sure I did miss something,
attached both negative and positive "thicker" terminals, negative to ground on engine, positive to starter motor.
I connected the loose wire that goes from the battery over to the horn terminal - see pics
car can start, horn works, headlights work.....
when I turn on parking lights, fuse blows!
but horn will still work, car can start, head lights, directionals, flashers, brake lights all work fine
BUT
no running lights.

I attached a test light to the ground on the engine, same place where battery terminal is connected,
when I touch either of these two rusted regular screw terminals, lights up. They both light up when I touch either one.
the red with some black on it, i traced back to the thin wire that goes to the battery...
not sure where the other wire goes....

power must be making it to the fuse panel, otherwise the fuse wouldn't blow, correct?

any ideas?

thank you
 

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Al - Waterloo, Iowa
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Sounds like you have a dead short. The power feed to one or both of the running lights is going to ground. Pull the running light bulbs and check out the sockets. There may be corrosion in the socket(s) creating the short. Also look at the wiring to the lights checking for any chaffing of the wire insulation allowing bare wire to contact a grounded surface.
 

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Pull bulbs out of all tail and park lights to see if fuse will blow. If it doesn't blow, Look at all bulb sockets for irregularities where a bulb insertation could make power terminal to contact bulb shell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
GOOD MORNING CHEVY LOVERS!!!
I got it, I finally figured it out, well....... not all by myself. Thank you all for assisting... very very helpful..
See attached.
I took your advice and disconnected the two signal / running lights on the front behind the grill,
I also disconnected the passenger side front running light.
replaced yesterday's blown fuse with a new one,
turned on running lights,
Wah Lah !!!! we have lights - and no blown fuse!!!!!
so this narrowed it down to these three (thinking back now, I did mess with these when the running lights didn't work earlier)
first the easy one, side marker from passenger side - lights up, no blown fuse....
then the driver's side front signal light, lights up.... no blown fuse....
then the passenger side front signal light.... this one I had to remove because it appeared to be crooked... and one of the springs was weak inside the socket.
re-attached, turned lights back on,
NO blown fuse
Lights work fine now.

I do have one more question,
where can I get these plugs that connect the signal lights... see pic,
they have two contacts inside what are spring loaded....

thanks again for all you help!

“Don’t give up . . . don’t ever give up.”
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