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Discussion Starter #1
Good Morning,

I will be soon converting to power disc brakes and have a question about new brake lines.

I will be installing a 9 inch dual booster (needed for LS engine) and new brake lines. I am assuming that all the new brake lines on the market are based on a stock 11 inch booster and I am worried that the new lines will not reach the MC with the dual booster. Looking at pictures the MC will probably be 3 – 5 inches farther away from the firewall than an original setup.

Questions:
Is there play in the replacement brake lines that would reach my new MC?
If there is extra length, are they easy to bend?
Has anyone used replacement brake lines that are configured for my scenario?

Thanks for the help.
 

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If you are going to replace your lines I would buy stainless steel replacements and new end hoses as your old one have dry rotten and expand making the pedal feel mushy. You can splice into to add to your existing lines using a double inverted flaird length of straight tubing and bend it to shape using a tubing bender with a die as opposed to a round roller.

What you do not want:
https://www.alliedelec.com/rs-pro-4...4OH7iGvfS-3s4pVxdivEc8obyFgRUZyBoC4ngQAvD_BwE

What you do want:
https://www.eastwood.com/tubing-ben...Tak1KFJzPo4UHHtoUg6Pp3-LzFt72FAhoCnK8QAvD_BwE

You will also need a brass fitting to connect the added tube length:

https://fastfittings.com/collection...fittings/products/female-inverted-flare-union

You can find these on the plumbing shelf of your local big box hardware store or the Weatherhead brass fitting cabinet at your local NAPA jobber who can sell you a foot long double inverted flare length of tubing as well.

Big Dave
 

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Use nicopp line instead of stainless. Stainless is a beeotch to bend and flare.

Don
 

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Use nicopp line instead of stainless. Stainless is a beeotch to bend and flare.

Don
Agreed. Did custom stainless once. Never again.

Nicopp is the way to go. With a piece of steel wool the lines polish very easy.
 

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Hello Mr. Robert,

The stock brake lines have a coil in them just before they screw into the stock distribution block. You might have enough extra material of bend them to fit. Just be careful, they are easy to kink if you try to bend them.
[/url]FBBD 12 by Patrick Smith, on Flickr[/IMG]

I do not know if you are running a proportioning valve. You could mount the valve/distribution block in a location where the brake lines do not need to be bent. Then just run custom little pigtails from the valve to the master cylinder. That is going to be a lot of work.

It would be easier to run new custom brake lines like others have mentioned. Bending the tube is easy if you use the NiCopp line. I bought a $20.00 flaring tool made by CalVan that works perfectly. This will eliminate the rat’s nest of tubing next to the master cylinder if you run custom lines. The stock brake lines cross over aftermarket subframe connectors in the rear.

https://www.camaros.net/forums/134-tips-tricks/452697-no-kink-tubing-bending.html

I finished part of my project that concerns the brake lines and vacuum booster. I calculated what would be a good brake system for my car. I thought everything out before I purchased the vacuum booster and master cylinder. I bought a bunch of individual parts instead of a kit. I made a few mistakes.

The dual 9” vacuum booster is much longer than the stock 11” one. (You already know this.)
[/url]master cyl 1 by Patrick Smith, on Flickr[/IMG]

This causes the master cylinder to look like it points upward too much in my opinion.
[/url]master cyl 4 by Patrick Smith, on Flickr[/IMG]

I bought two new mounting brackets that bolts the vacuum booster to the firewall. They were made by Detroit Speed. They changed the angle from 17 degrees to 9 degrees. This helped with the cosmetic portion of the puzzle. The change caused me to move the brake push rod from the power brake hole to the manual brake hole on the brake pedal. This threw my calculations off.
[/url]master cyl 10 by Patrick Smith, on Flickr[/IMG]

[/url]master cyl 11 by Patrick Smith, on Flickr[/IMG]

[/url]master cyl 12 by Patrick Smith, on Flickr[/IMG]



https://www.camaros.net/forums/16-brakes-suspension-steering/456329-possible-change-master-cylinder-angle.html
 

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I changed from Power Drum to Power disc. I was hoping that I would only have to modify the lines on the axle, because it was narrowed. Nope... All custom lines. It turned out to not be a big deal. I used NiCop a stainless spring rock guards on all of the 3/16" lines. Bent some with a bender and made minor mods by hand with a length of spring around the tube. I used Eastwoods flaring tool. I think it came out fine.
 

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If a flared joint is leaking, a copper flare washer can be installed in the flares and tightened to alleviate leakage.
Visit your local pneumatics/hydraulic shop for these wonderful items.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks everyone, looks like making custom lines it the best way to go. Appreciate all of the input.
 
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