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Discussion Starter #1
After all my Master cylinder/ dragging brakes issues were solved, I decided I may as well replace pads/shoes. I discovered one of the wheel cylinders is leaking (I knew I'd find something else I'd be forced to do). I need advice: Is there some trick to breaking loose the brake line fitting from the wheel cylinder? These are the original, never-touched-in-41-years cylinders. Even with a some penetrating rust-buster and a brake line wrench I can't get the fitting to budge and I'm starting to round-off the hex. I thought about just cutting it off and replacing the rear end lines, but no matter how far back I go somewhere along the way I'll still need to cleanly break a fitting loose. Any suggestions?
 

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As Al suggested a pair of Vise-grips. But I would install the tubing wrench, then clamp the VG's over the wrench. Now you have an extra lever, as in a 4-way wrench, to loosen. A quick jerk.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Tried the vise grips on a tubing wrench, still couldn't budge it, it still wanted to round-off. My bro' suggested a 6" mini-pipe wrench. Worked like a charm. Popped right loose. Jay is right though…I ought to replace everything…resisting the urge to obey…everything I do turns into twice as much work. I just wanted to replace shoes, discovered bad wheel cylinder, now maybe brake lines, arrrgh! Now, as long as I have your attention: on the M/C on my 69 there are two valves that look just like bleeders. Is that what those are? How/when do I bleed using those? Thanks, guys. Have a great Holiday. Thanks Vets!
 

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KenFro, replace the rear cylinders and lines and be done with it. If they are giving you that much problem it is time to replace. It will only be a headache the next time you have to do work and everything is rounded off. We've all been there, things just seem to snowball. And ditto thanks to all the Vets out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK, you've convinced me. How about the M/C bleeders? I am a bit worried about my bench bleeding technique. Can I use those to finish the job if my bench bleed was inadequate?
 

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If you screw up one of a lines of fittings you can get short section of brake line with fitting and use a union to put it on that line.

Roger
 

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OK, you've convinced me. How about the M/C bleeders? I am a bit worried about my bench bleeding technique. Can I use those to finish the job if my bench bleed was inadequate?
If you are just replacing the rear brake cylinder and the rear brakelines over to the T. I don't think you will have to bench bleed the MC. My MC did not have bleeders on them. But I replaced all the rear lines and bleed as usual. No issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I did replace the M/C first. It was bench bled, emptied, shipped to me, "bench bled" on the car by me, now I am replacing the wheel cylinders. So there's going to be a whole lotta beedin' goin' on. Just want to make sure I don't need to remove the M/C and start over on the bench.
 

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You should have bled Master cylinder before putting on car...I never heard of pre-bled master cylinder. ( hope you didn't buy reman unit). I would do rear hose, wheels cylinders, and lines as needed. Those new poly-armour brake lines are the best...Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Jay. My old M/C wasn't original. I bought an original off a guy on this board who rebuilt it for me. He bench-bled to test it, dumped the reservoirs out and shipped it to me. A guy at the auto parts store where I bought the M/C bleed kit suggested I could bleed it while on the car, which I did. Then I read on here about M/C needing to be bled when level and all the other various tricks and suggestions to bleed M/C and the rest of the system. That's when I started wondering if I'd screwed up. I will if I have to, but I'd rather not pull M/C back off if I can avoid it. Thus my question about how, when and why to use the bleeders that are on the M/C itself. If I have to start over, I'd rather do it now before I finish bleeding the whole system.
 

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I just replaced my mc over the weekend and mine also has bleeders on it. I ordered from year one for my specific year and model, 69 w/o power brakes. I would suggest taking it back off and bench bleeding it again. It is actually a very simple process, takes about 10-15 minutes and you will know for sure that there is no air in the master. As for the bleeders on the actual mc, I don't have an answer for you, I would like to know for myself.
 

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Here is a simple tried & true method of brake line removal from either end:
Get a size 13 or 14mm box end wrench and just slip it over the fitting and she will pop off like a charm. ;)

Or maybe you just wanted to release it I didn't bother to read all posts and now I realize this was what you wanted to know how to do, sorry.
 

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Does no one know why, when and how to use the bleeders on the Master cylinder?
All you do is connect a short hose over on each bleeder screw and other end of hose put in top of resavoir and pump it til the bubbles are gone I think if I remember correctly. I believe they used to have a kit (plastic piece I believe) that attaches the lines to the resavoir to keep them in place.
 

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If MC was bench bled, MC bleeders shouldn't have to be used. A maintenance check at the MC bleeders can be done on a weekly basis until all signs of air are gone.
 

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