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Discussion Starter #1
I have a power booster\master setup.
Is it normal to have to adjust the clevis that attaches to the brake pedal arm (bottom hole) until it's almost to the end of the booster rod? The switch in front of the pedal is bottomed out as well.... as far forward towards the firewall as it will go to be able to make contact with the brake pedal arm.

I don't have the carpet in yet, and haven't looked at the specs for pedal adjustment yet. They're not going to matter anyway because I have the feeling if I adjust the pedal to factory specs, the brake pedal won't actuate the light switch. It barely does now.
Right now if I push the brake pedal all the way down, it has a hard stop, which to me means that's it's full travel (which is a good thing?). It's not hitting anything and stops well before the floor, or where the carpet would be.
 

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I believe there 2-holes for the rod to go threw and rod needs to be in the upper hole, also if its aftermarket they make an adjustable rod for a longer length. I got mine from Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Everything is.... it's an over-the-counter booster\master setup. The rod doesn't adjust in or out, so I only have the clevis adjustment to work with.
No biggy, unless having the clevis that close to the end of the threaded rod is going to become a weak point and leave me without brakes someday.
:)
 

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Everything is.... it's an over-the-counter boostermaster setup. The rod doesn't adjust in or out, so I only have the clevis adjustment to work with.
No biggy, unless having the clevis that close to the end of the threaded rod is going to become a weak point and leave me without brakes someday.
:)
Ive had the same problem, with a short clevis and added a 1/2 of an old rod into the booster for more length and cup the end for a better contact point on the clevis. Thats what i was told to do until i change my master to match my 8" booster.
 

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I had to adjust my clevis all the way out too. I don't know about 69's, but on 67's there is an extender that attaches to the brake pedal to reach the brake light switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, that another thing..... the pedal never returns far enough forward (towards driver) to contact the rubber bumper. It's maybe 1/2-3/4" short. But as long as the booster rod has no pressure on it, which it does not, what's the diff? I could always add something to the front edge of the pedal arm to contact the switch.... that'd give me some more rod to play with I suppose.
Thanks for the idea!

If I could start the car I'd play with it more to see if the brakes function properly. But that's a ways off yet.
I was just curious really.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hmmmm.... there is no bracket on the arm. There wasn't one on either arm I have (previous owner had shortened the pedal pad with a hacksaw!!). I would have kept that stuff together. I'll look up a picture of what it's supposed to look like and see if I have it, but for the time being, how does it attach to the pedal arm? Or does it attach somehow to the switch or switch bracket itself?

OK, so it doesn't need to hit the bumper.... makes sense that manual brakes need it because of the arm being pulled forward by the spring.
Thanks Scott.
 

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Joe, Power brakes don't use the rubber stop. And do you have the brake light switch contact bracket installed? The plunger contacts the bracket, not the pedal arm. If I am reading your current set up correctly.
Joe,

Scott is on the right track here and the bracket is available from Ricks as a reproduction. Also, I believe the power brake light switch is different (longer reach) than the manual brake light switch.

I've also seen some cars (one of mine) that has the clevis almost out to the end. I'd say there are still 6 to 8 threads in the clevis and with the stopnut tight it's never been a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Cool... thanks Dave.

Different switch.... that would just be my luck. I'll rig something before I spend money on a stinking switch.
;)
And I do not have that bracket either. I don't remember seeing a hole in the pedal arm for attaching it either, but that's nothing a drill can't handle.
 

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When I converted my manual drum car, it had a return spring on the pedal and the pedal arm contacted the button on the brake light switch which is in a little crimp bracket that lets you slide the switch in and out. Even though it isn't necessary, I reused the return spring and put a little 1/4" tall rubber bumper on up on framework where the arm contacts. It may not be correct, but it functions perfectly.
 

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You can see the brake switch "tab" on this pic from David Pozzi's site:


And you can either make up your own or (if your as lazy as me) you can order part #PT-83 from Rick's:
http://www.rickscamaros.com/product.asp?pf_id=PT-83&dept_id=3440

The tab basically uses the "upper" bolt hole in the brake pedal to attach.

I re-used my old "manual" brake switch after installing the tab and haven't had any issues...
 

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Funny, I just replaced my booster and Master cylinder. I had to cut about 1/2" off the rod so the clevis could attach to the brake pedal. My setup which I bought from Matts came with a spare pin for the booster which is longer than the one that came in the booster. This pin matched the length of the old one, so that's the one I used. I adjusted the free play on the brake pedal to 1/4" like the book says and everything is super. Check the length of the rod in the frone of the booster that actuates the master cylinder, it just pulls out by hand.
 
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