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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys;

I'm doing a brake resoration; front to rear on my '69 Z/28. I've got the fronts down to the spindles and I'm looking for some suggestions on paint for caliper brackets & steering arms.

I also noticed that one of my brake backing plates has a molded flange where the rotor mounts, and the other is smooth in that area?

By the way - if anyone is considering a parts washer, I just got the Benchtop Pro for my Birthday and it's Awesome!!!

Thanks in advance for your help!

Tony
 

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Tony, looking at Jerry's book caliper brackets are gold cadmium plating and the steering stuff was natural metal (I used cast blast to protect them).

For the backing plates, look for the part numbers stamped into them (in a flat area). Maybe you had a replacement on 1 side. I cannot seem to find the part numbers right now :(
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Kevin - appreciate the help..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Does anyone have any recommendations for gold cadmium colored paint that will hold-up well?

Thanks.
 

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Does anyone have any recommendations for gold cadmium colored paint that will hold-up well?

Thanks.
Two things! You may have opportunity to find color markings on some parts around spindle. Degreasing immediately will erase what you may find. A soak in evaporust after a gentle cleaning (dawn detergent) might provide some discoveries. For the Caliper Brackets, have them coated in yellow zinc (fairly cheap process). GM prints according to JohnZ allowed the use of either and many suppliers used yellow zinc back then as it was cheaper to apply.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank You!
 

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You can always ship the caliper brackets and backing plates to Jerry McNeish and have them replated Restoration Services (I'd make sure you have the right backing plates, first). I had him do mine and it wasn't too expensive, but I don't remember the cost. Spindles and all steering linkage had a natural finish from the factory, but like mentioned, cast blast is a good way to keep them looking right and not have them start to rust immediately.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So i purchased a Craftsman 1/2" impact driver. It's been great for removing stubborn bolts. I'm a little hesitant to use it to install; my understanding is the torque rating is up to 300 ft. lbs. and there is not torque adjustment.

How do you guys use these to install bolts; is it a "feel" thing, or am I better off to just use it to remove bolts?

Thanks!
 

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I have two 1/2 in air impact drivers - I only use them to take stuff apart, not put em together. When lazy I use my electric DeWalt and turn down the torque setting, then tighten by hand or torque wrench.
 

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One thing that should be kept in mind is Jerry does not plate and farms it out. Nothing wrong with that as the services performed are fine but being a middle man adds cost. We can have a set of backing plates done for no more than $20 or less if glass beading is done and their ready to plate. Yellow zinc is commonly used for many industrial purposes and local shops can often be found. I only bring this up to assist people with finding a source that can save money and also most shops that do yellow zinc also apply clear (silver) zinc. The drag link is a good part to cold blue like doing a barrel for a shotgun or rifle. I've done a few including the one on our 68Z restoration and it looks very natural. Parts like that do not look correct with cast blast as it was not a casting. But agree 100% cast blast can be a great tool used on several parts to give a fresh look and also protect. Cold bluing is very easy to apply and inexpensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Guys! Love this forum!
 

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Hi Tony

I did my Front End / Brake Parts with the Rustoleum Professional Semi Gloss Black and had the Parts needing Plating, backing Plate/ Caliper Bracket Re-plated at Reliable Plating in Bpt, CT. You can Google for a Place near you if needed.

I still have my Original Rotors, Drums and Calipers.

I had Reliable Plate the Backing Plate in the Silver, They called that Clear.
And the Caliper Support Bracket in Gild, They called that Yellow.

Here is a Link to a Post about Paint/ Powder Coat:

http://www.camaros.net/forums/12-body-shop/356194-subframe-paint-powder-coat-2.html
My Post is #24.

My Car is a Driver, I wanted something that worked and would Last, but still looked good.

I am right off the Merritt, Exit # 48, Come up my way or I will come visit when the Roads are Clear :smile2:

Timmy from Trumbull
 

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Thanks Timmy! Please come visit! Merritt is a great parkway for a cruise in a Camaro...
 

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I like and use Cast Blast. For some natural parts, how about giving them a good cleaning, degreasing and then a spray coat of a non-glossy, satin clear? I've had good luck with that and the natural parts have not rusted.
 

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So i purchased a Craftsman 1/2" impact driver. It's been great for removing stubborn bolts. I'm a little hesitant to use it to install; my understanding is the torque rating is up to 300 ft. lbs. and there is not torque adjustment.

How do you guys use these to install bolts; is it a "feel" thing, or am I better off to just use it to remove bolts?

Thanks!
I too only use mine to remove fastners. I don't even like the use of an impact with a torque stick to put on wheel lug nuts, they're usually too tight. Your best friend is a good quality torque wrench. Even with a 300 lb-ft rating, you'll find that a long breaker bar with a 6 point socket will work when the impact doesn't and won't beat the end of the bolt or nut to death . Just my 2c.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey Guys - so; most of my parts are in and I'm just waiting on some refinishing to be done on a few brackets. I'm looking at the rear brake hard line. Doesn't look like I'm swapping that out for the new stainless line with the steering box in there? Is that correct I will need to remove the steering box to get the new rear brake line installed?

Thanks very much.

Tony
 
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