Team Camaro Tech banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I went to do my first drive around the block with our new 68, and...it wouldn't budge. After letting it sit for about 20 minutes, I started it up again and didn't touch the brakes...and it rolled just fine. As soon as I hit the brakes, it locks up and won't release.


I figured the flex hoses were the likely culprit. I think it's the rear one, as there was no sliding marks from the front wheels, only one rear wheel was trying to dig a hole. I was only able to get the front hoses, the rear is on order.


I managed to get the RF flex hose replaced and bled, but it wasn't pretty. I'd like to smack the engineer who designed the front wheel cylinders. Who decided it was a good idea to aim the bleeder valve at the spindle so you can't get a socket on it? And the flex hose isn't much better.



I knew I was in trouble with the LF when I couldn't get the @*#$(& lugnuts off. I'm not sure what PO used on them, but...it took a few good smacks with a 5lb sledge on the wrench to get them to budge. After fussing with the flex hose for about an hour, I gave up. I think I'm going to punt and cut the hose off near the wheel cylinder, and use a deep socket to get to the flats. I had no luck with the wrench, and was starting to round it off (and I can't find my 5/8 flare wrench for some reason) so I stopped.


Is there a better way to getting a wrench on the bleeder and flex hose fittings?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,510 Posts
IMHO Pat as part of the restoration to full driver status, a full brake job including an inspection and a full flush and fluid change is in order. If original steel brake lines are rusting inside out due to water in the fluid you will see it in the fluid you drain. Its an ugly job but peace of mind when stopping is enough to do it for - especially now while it is still warm out.

Brian
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
754 Posts
Why fight it? Calipers and hoses are cheap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
It's got drums all around currently, first order of business is to get it mobile and past inspection so I can drive it to local services (tires, exhaust, etc) Eventually I'll replace the master and all the lines, and probably put discs on, but that's not at the top of the punchlist for now. I put a CPP front disc setup on my Nova, not sure if I'll do something like that again, or go with a 2nd gen retrofit. More research to do...

The fluid was cloudy but not horrible when I bled the RF, but yes...needs to be gone through entirely.

So what's the hot tip for getting a wrench on the bleeder and hose fittings? I picked up a cheap 5/16 wrench that I'm going to try to bend to get it on the bleeder. I think I'll end up cutting the hose and trying to get a deep socket on the hose fitting...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
754 Posts
Hoses are cheap and they could probably use replacing anyway. Cut it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Got the rear flex hose replaced tonight, and it works!!! Still have to deal with the LF, but having it mobile is a huge help. Now at least I can pull it into the garage to make the rest of the work easier.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,258 Posts
I remember my rear flex hose was rotted. The pedal pressure was enough to let fluid through to work the brakes but the return pressure wasnt enough to let it return through the rotted, narrowed out flex line not releasing the pads.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top