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Discussion Starter #21
Anyone out there with input on why I want the smaller bore? Or any input on the several questions I have asked.

I appreciate John's quick concise answers, but I'm not learning very much. I actually want to be able to learn something and understand these parts and system in general.

I'd like to know enough about it to choose my parts and know why they work or why they are better, not just take a part number and and hope the other guy got it right for me.

No offense intended John.
 

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Smaller bore size yields more pressure. With manual non boosted that’s what you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Thanks guys.

I went on a search for info and did learn as you say, smaller bore = higher pressure. Also = longer pedal travel.

So I now get how that works out.

How about the proportioning / pressure reducer valve. It seems I've heard mentioned here on the forum that with disc it is not even necessary ... Is memory serving me correctly there?

I believe I learned last night that drum brakes are actually more efficient (than disc) in that they grab very easily with lower pressure, which makes them prone to lock up much more easily. With that the pressure reduction valve kills the PSI heading out the line when it hits something like 250psi ... keeping the brakes from locking up while braking. Is that about right?

I also understand there can be a metering valve on the front line to insure the front brakes don't engage prior to the rear brakes. I'm not sure if that plays into four wheel disc or not.

Disc brakes on the other hand are less efficient and it takes a lot of pressure on the pads to lock them up, so pressure reduction not as critical.

This is the valve I have plumbed in now
DSC_2214 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

I assume if I change the master cylinder and eliminate the booster I would keep this valve in the system below the new MC.
 
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