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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all.

Well, I'm doing the one wire alternator conversion and I took off the voltage regulator. The jumper from the positive lead (big red wire) I've left connected to the horn relay. The blue wire only went from the old generator to the voltage regulator. A white wire also did. Now I am left with this brown wire and nothing to hook it to.

I looked at the stuff for converting to a modern internal regulated alt in the tech section, which says to connect two of the wires (one of which is the brown wire). However, since I no longer have the blue wire to connect it to... is there a problem just capping it off? What exactly is this wire for originally anyway?

Thanks for any help. Hope to fire it up soon and want to have it wired right the first time.
 

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Brown wire originally was to supply a start-up voltage to the alternator field. True one-wire alternators are self exciteing or self starting and don't need this voltage. It's OK to cap it off. An idiot light won't work anymore. You need a voltmeter to watch the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
as always, thanks for the help guys.

I intend on installing some guages in the near future. For now, I simply needed to know if leaving this disconnected would mess with my charging.

Hopefully I'll get this thing fired up this weekend!!!
 

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Boodlefoof, I have a one wire alternator on my car. On the internal regulator plug use a 10 gauge wire jumped to the stud on the back of the alternator (output) and the blue wire goes in the other terminal of the two wire plug. If you go to the voltage regulator plug (once old regulator is removed) and jump two wires (can't remember the colors, but I'll look tonight and post them) your "idiot" light will work and you won't have to add an volt meter unless you want to.

OK Bf, At the alternator - white wire is not used, use the blue & 10 gauge print says orange (mine is red, been changed), use jumper as described above.

At the old voltage regulator plug jump the blue wire and brown wire together. These wires are on each end of the flat 4 wire plug. The brown wire goes to the generator light and will work correctly if you hook it up this way.

General Motors never made an alternator (but I can't break the habit) I was told by a GM instructor. All the service manuals refer to it as a generator. Check it out, he was right! Triva for today.

Good Luck
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Drew

69' X-11 350, Turbo 350, Factory Air, PS, PB, 12 Bolt (410 gear) & NOT AN SS

[This message has been edited by drew69 (edited 07-26-2002).]

[This message has been edited by drew69 (edited 07-27-2002).]
 

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The question was "What is the purpose of the brown wire"? The answer is correct unless someone can explain it better. Yes, some one-wires have provisions to hook up the idiot light, but you don't need to. Why buy a one-wire if you going to hook it up like a SI or CS alternator, which I like better.
I never said to use an amp gage, however I did say to use a volt meter. As far as how a wye phased alternator is really a generator, well...
Sorry if I type kinda harsh. I don't know any other way to sound different.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by John_Muha:
Brown wire originally was to supply a start-up voltage to the alternator field.

An idiot light won't work anymore.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

John, BF was asking about the brown wire at the voltage regulator plug. From the diagram I looked at this is the correct answer.
TOMSTV
Tech Team
Posts: 587
From: MANASQUAN NJ. U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2001
posted 07-25-2002 02:12 PM
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Looks like the brown wire went to eather the volt gauge,or the gen. light,up at the dash.the other three wires go to the alternator.

This depended on what option you had.

The generator light works fine on my car with the wires jumped as stated.

I corrected amp meter to volt meter but either will give you a status of the charging system.

Why GM refuses to use the term "alternator" is unknown to me but you can write them and ask them about that one.

[This message has been edited by drew69 (edited 07-27-2002).]
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by drew69:
John, BF was asking about the brown wire at the voltage regulator plug. From the diagram I looked at this is the correct answer.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

You are correct. It does go where you have indicated. But why does it go there, what does it do, and is it needed on a one-wire?

Staying with the simpler GEN light circuit: From there the other side of the lamp goes to the ignition switch. Until the mid 70s, GM also used an additional resistor wire from the switch. About 10 ohms. This was in case the idiot light burnt out.
The purpose of running the circuit this way was not to power an idiot light, even though it does. An externally regulated alternator (or generator if you want), an SI, or a CS alternator requires a voltage to start. The field first needs to be excited or energized to begin to start producing. The field acts like like an electo-magnetic and needs voltage. If the car was just shut off the is enough residue flux in the field windings for it to start again. If it sits for a long time, this bleeds off. Once the alternator starts producing there is an output out of the field wire (blue) but first the alternator needs to start.
Without the 12 volts from the battery, through the ignition switch, through the idiot light, and down the brown wire, the alternator may not start again. Spinning a rotor inside an unenergized field (or stator) produces no output.
A true aftermarket one-wire alternator, an alternator with only the large red B+ wire on it, works differently. It does not need the external battery voltage to start or excite its field. It self excites itself when you get it above a certain RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
well, I learn more every day!
Thanks for all the additional info as well guys.
 
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