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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was wondering if an easy mod to for lower shock location mounting on my '67 would be to install the C\E traction bars? They seem to have four mounting locations for the shock. Will this allow you to place the shocks in a staggered configuration as well as choosing to place them in the original configuration (both shocks in front of the axle)?I have A mulit-leaf setup now, Is it a simple install meaning I just have to remove the tie plates that are on there and bolt on the traction bars?Is it that simple or are shims required? What options as far as lower shock placement goes do you reallistically get using these traction bars? They seem a little spendy just to fix what seems like A common problem that others have with this as oppose to having A fab shop fab up a mirror image of A '68 shock plate! Am I making sense?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I know this is totally hack but if I welded a piece of flat bar bent at a 90 degree angle to the front side of my drivers side shock plate and located the shock so then both would be in front would this be better then having the shock mount behind the axle and let it rub on the axle tube and risk puncturing the shock? I'm sure the traction bars is the better idea if it would work but A quick weld is way cheaper then 200$ traction bars?
 

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Ce traction bars are basically a universal fit for Camaro, Nova, etc. Use the shock mount ear of your needs. No left side nor right side from CE.
 

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The problem with trying to do staggered shocks on a 67 is that the UPPER mounts are also made to place both in front of the axle! Even if you could bend one back 6", it would put the upper mounting in one heck of a bind, and possibly bend the shock before too long.

Your post didn't mention a problem, do you have one? Chevy went to stagered shock to help with wheel hop, but it is not a cure-all, nor is it the only way to fix wheel hop. Plenty of leaf spring cars running around from many manufacturers with both shocks on the same side of the axle.

If wheel hop is your problem, the c/e slide-a-links will fix it right up, even with the shocks where they are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The problem specifically is that the drivers side shock mounts to the plate behind the axle and yes,this causes a bind at the top of the shock tower as well as the shock bashing against the axle tube.From what I have read this is a commen problem with '67 multi-leaf conversions because of the shock tower locations being identical. If the C\E traction bars are a simple bolt on(just unbolt the shockplates and shocks and swap for the traction bars without any mods to the perches) and don't cause too much under\oversteer then That is what I will probobally do! Does anybody have an opinion on this specific install that has done it first hand and what where the pros and cons performance wize as well as fit wize if any to speak of?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Will the plate on the tractionbar bolt right up to the springs or do the original plates have a funky shape or contour to them that requires mods or adapters?What about ground clearance?Does this become an issue for a daily driver(pulling into steep angled driveways and such)?
I heard that these traction bars increase over\understeer! Is it as intense as if I was to lets say, add a sway bar to the rear, because I've been advised against staying away from adding a rear sway bar. I'm starving for any input you gurus can feed me.No such thing as too much information! Teach me the Jedi ways!
 

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oh, I see... you're car was converted to multi leafs and they used the 68-69 plates and you want to put the shock back where it belongs?

You could just pick up a set of 67 mono plates, you might have to drill or enlarge the hole where the spring bolt sits.

I put the CE traction bars on my car this winter. They pretty much just bolt on, sort of. You do have to remove the original front sporing eye bushing and put thiers on. If you search the suspension forum for posts I started there are pics and a description of how to do it.

Ground clearance is not a problem.

The bars are adjustable, you can unload them completely anbd then they don't effect the ride or handling of the car. Turn the adjuster to preload em and instant traction, at least in theory, haven't driven mine enough to know that yet for sure.

Conventional slapper type traction bars such as lakewoods have the same type of shock mounts usually.

You are talking about C//E slide-a-links aren't you?
I think they sell slappers too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have only seen the C\E slapper bars with the J bolts, I'll havr to look at the slide-a-links. Whats with the front spring bushing replacement?Does that have to do with they way the mount?Does the bushing have some sort of backet incorperated with it or is there some other reason for replacing it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
O.K. I went to web site and checked them out! I see how they mount up now. It looks like the slide-a-links have shock mount locations only for behind the axle? Is yours a '67? Did you have to install the shock relocation cross bar between the frame rails or is your a '68-69'? They do look like a sweet traction set-up but may be to rich for my blood! How much for the slide-a-links? I know the shock relocation kit is about 100$ but I could proboally fab it for half the cost. The slapper bars I saw had shock mount locations on all four corners of the pad thats why it seemed like a good idea. But are slapper bars worth the purchase? Do they really help or would it be just throwing cash down the tubes? Would I really be better off saving up for the slide-a-links?
 

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If your looking for a set of CE slapper bars, I have a chrome set with the J bolts I don't need. They have the 4 bolt shock pattern your talking about and bolt right up to the spring. PM me if intereested and I'll shoot you some pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Wow! That isn't bad! Iwas quoted 230$ just for the slappers! I'm curious though, the pictures and instructions for the slide-a-links only show two shock mount locations and they are in the rear of the plate!Did you have to modify yours and weld on flanges to the front of the plate or they came that way?
 

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I installed some Lakewood traction bars from my local speed shop. They were less than $150.00. They are available for $99.99 mail order. They have all the shock mounts you need. Just throw away your old plates and mount your shock the way they were supposed to be in 67. Not as much bling as slid-a-links but alot less cash. I have 1/4" snubber clearance and they ride fine. I actually had a rear sway bar before and it rides better with out it. The axle hop is gone too. Couple hours to install. I kind of like old school, I don't have alot of horse power or extra cash. I am real happy with it. Those Slide-a-links look very cool though. My set up a 8.5 10 bolt from 74 nova with the multi leafs from the nova.
 
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