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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a loud rocker, or lifter, and I need to isolate wich one it is. it is not at idle, and I have tried adjusting and re adjusting... I need to figure out wich one it is. can I remove one rocker, and pushrod and run the engine? or will the lifter fly out and cause probs? or am I forgetting about anything else? please help!
Thanks
-John
 

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You can remove a rocker arm and push rod without worrying about the lifter jumping out. The cam won't accelerate it fast enough. What you must do is kill that cylinder by removing the plug wire. I once broke a pushrod on the way home from a show and the car wouldn't run. I had no tools with me but I located which cylinder by removing a plug wire at a time and tryed to start the car after each removal. When I got to #7 the car started and ran rough as would be expected but I was able to get it off the freeway where I could check into the problem further.

Good luck,

John
 

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Better yet, try using a long screwdriver as a stethoscope while its running. Then with the engine off remove rockers one at a time and check for galling and look through the pushrod to verify oil passage is clear. Then check the rocker stud for wear. If varnish is suspected in sticking lifter use a chemical flush and add Marvel Mystery Oil to crankcase. You can run the engine without the rocker and pushrod but you run the chance of launching the lifter into the valley and creating more work. Don't try it.

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Steve
 

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John....are the lifters hydralic or solids? At what RPM does it make noise? If it's hydralic, and teh RPM's are not real high, try this. Try to isolate which bank it is on. Pull the valve cover on that bank and using a long screwdriver, push down on each rocker (at the pushrod) hard. This will collapse the lifter and make it clatter. When you only hear one lifter, that is the problem cylinder. It's not the cleanest method, but it does work.
 

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Liquid40, I didn't know it was a broken pushrod until I got home and pulled the valve cover. I expected a broken rocker arm or pushrod because just before it broke I got a very load clatter in the valve train. When it broke the noise went away but the car began running very rough and it would pop through the carb. when I pulled over it wouldn't idle and then it wouldn't start. At least not until I killed the bad cyclinder by pulling the plug wire.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Its Hydraulic, the noise gets louder with rpm. I cant hear it much at idle, my loap is pretty good, and with headers, the thin pipe lets off some tick noises.

so I would need to basicly match the speed of the rocker with my hand and a screwdriver?

-John


<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Codi:
John....are the lifters hydralic or solids? At what RPM does it make noise? If it's hydralic, and teh RPM's are not real high, try this. Try to isolate which bank it is on. Pull the valve cover on that bank and using a long screwdriver, push down on each rocker (at the pushrod) hard. This will collapse the lifter and make it clatter. When you only hear one lifter, that is the problem cylinder. It's not the cleanest method, but it does work. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>



[This message has been edited by 67electro (edited 08-16-2002).]
 
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