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The photo below is what came with the cam when my 383 was built. Can you give me any info on this cam's performance? I know the engine dynoed at 445hp and 498lb/ft of torque, but are these specs considered a "towing/RV" style, or how about for idle and vacuum for power brakes? The engine idles very smoothly, so it doesn't seem very radical for the street. The engine is a new 383, 10.5:1, alum Brodix IK 180 64cc heads, Wieand stealth intake, Holley 650.

I was just wondering about how this cam compares with others.

 

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From the .050 figures the cam timing is 4-36-49-2, 110 lsa 106 ICL, with 6 degrees of overlap at .050. Not taking into account the lobe design, this cam has specs very close to the Comp 275DEH cam 219-229 .462-.482 lift 110 lsa 106 ICL. I would not call this an RV cam and with 445 hp and 498 torque of torque you have a very streetable and powerful motor. Obviously your Brodix heads are worth a lot of power. An old Hot Rod cam comparo test, ran the 275DEH cam in a 383 with pretty stock 882 heads with 2.02-1.60 valves, rpm intake, 750 holley and it made better horsepower than a 244-244 duration cam. The 275 made 328 hp at 5000 rpm and 408 TQ. at 3600 rpm. If they had used your heads I am sure they would have made as much power or close to what your engine made. Sounds like a really nice cam you have there and I would keep it!! With 6 degrees of overlap, 10.
5 cr, and 383 cubes you should have plenty of power for your brakes. In a 350 this cam would have a noticeable idle but Comp says the 275DEH is a high performance street cam that can be used with a stock converter. Your bigger cubes and higher compresson ratio smoothes out your idle. You should have at least 14" of vacuum at 900 rpm.
 

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In my opinion; that would be a descent 9:1 compression with Automatic Trans Cam at the for the Street and occasional Strip but if running a Manual with descent compression I prefer a cam with a Marine Profile something like (depending on Static Compression) 268/276 Advertised with a .485"/.500 Lift and a 112 LSA which extends the torque range and still able to maintain Hi-Revs for accurate shifts. With your Brodix Heads and what 10.5:1 Static I would look for somewhere around a .515" int and .525" ext lift. If you're into Drag rather then Canyon Running use them specs with a 106 or 108 LSA to peek shift points with a manual tranny. Generally if you use less LSA you can increase the intake duration and lift and shorten up on the exhaust duration and lift - this would suit Drag and kill low end and mid range torque need for taller gears and Road Performance with a Manual and the profile is more suited for an Automatic with a Hole Shot.

That particular cam is low on lift with long intake duration and a 110 LSA you say an RV CAM - perhaps but with a narrow torque range and peeky Hp more suited for a 9:1 pretender. There are other variables like; Weight of Ride, Valve Size, Port Flow, Fuel distribution, Gearing, Tire Dia ... etc.
 
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