What are you using to pull codes? If you have a scanner and your ECM will not link to it it's likely the ECM is done.
The next thing to determine is whether it is fuel, or fire that stalls the engine. When it quits pull the coil/plug wire and check for fire. If you don't have the tool to check this, stick a screw driver in the coil/plug wire and hold the metal part about 1/2 inch away from something metal on the engine. Have someone crank it over.
If you get spark then check the fuel pressure. there is a schrader valve like on an AC line, on your fuel rail, I think your car will have pressure in the 40's but check the book.
Your cat converter could also be suspect.
This could get long, if there is no fire check the coil then the module, if it's the fuel pressure, check; 12v out of fuel pump relay (it cycles off after a few seconds, turn key off, and back on to recycle pump). If 12v is there listen at tank for fuel pump buzz, if it buzzes check fuel filter.
If all this fails pour gas on sparingly, strike match, and call insurance co. Not really, post more info.
it doesnt get fire!....i replaced the module and the 3 coils....just to find out that the old ones were good (lesson learned: always have the old parts checked no matter what someone says)....i tried pulling the codes with a scan tool...the little one that bridges the a and b on the aldl...nothing happens...i changed the fuel filter..it was nasty but when i let the car run..it did the same thing...it quit in about 10 minutes...i am starting to think my ecm/pcm is bad...but why would my engine run so good for 10 minutes?????....thanks for the reply!! im going to double check some of the things you mentioned
Probably would be a good idea to have someone with a scantool to take a look. See if you are getting Crankshaft Position Sensor references pulses. If not your Crannk position sensor may be bad. Just a thought, hope it helps.
ASE Master Auto/Truck
67 RS Convertible
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