Something is drawing some juice, or the battery is not being charged correctly. Disconnect a battery cable and insert a test light.
In order to eliminate the battery, you've tried the dry-cell battery in another vehicle and the battery functions correctly? Meaning, you're sure the battery is being correctly charged? Alt belt is not slipping?
Depending upon the electrical circuit and the current it is drawing, the light will glow, but not burn out. So, with test light in place and its glowing, remove fuses one by one, then the fusible links at the starter solenoid stud.
The one reducing the glow the most, is the troublesome circuit.
Now, remember, the ECU, radio, and other modern electronics, will draw a miniscule amount to keep its memory alive, ie, radio stations and clock.
By the time you get to these two circuits, the light filament will be dimly lit, as you should view it at dusk to see it glow.
Unless you have the new style one post connection, are you sure you have a black wire coming from the alternator to the choke on the carb, if so, that doesn't sound too good. It tells me your choke is on all time time. If this is true how does the car run and could be the possible drain on your battery??? Splice an ammeter somewhere in between this connection and see if you get an amperage draw. You shouldn't be getting any reading at all. If you do, disconnect this wire at the choke, fully charge your battery and see what happens. If you had the plug connection I thought you had, all you needed to do was hot wire the brown wire into your primary ignition circuit to energized the alternator into charging, however you may lose the idiot light on your instrument panel in the process. Connect a volt meter red wire at that battery post and ground the black. Start the car and read the volt meter. It should read 13.75+ volts.
Remember that a dry battery is different from a wet cell and must be charged slowely. If this doesn't work reply back to let me know. There is a thread on this site that shows how to hook up different styles of alternators
I've also had a problem with my '98 Camaro battery dying after 2-3 days. Maybe you have the same issue. After several occasions of having to charge the battery, we thought it might be the factory-installed car alarm, and tried letting the car sit a couple of days without having it armed. Bingo! It appears that was it - I hope! We've also read the amps using a meter each day, and they stayed the same.
Note: if you lock your doors with the automatic door lock button, it also arms the system.
A forum community dedicated to 1st generation Chevy Camaros owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, restoration, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, reviews, and more!