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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,
A few years back I had a problem of when I would accelerate, the whole car would shake pretty violently. Subsequently my transmisson blew and it sat for a while. I recently put in a new transmission (M22W) and a new clutch disc (Centerforce Dual Friction).
When I take off "normally" from a stop there is no problem, but if I give it some gas and take off quick the car still shakes. Could this be a sign of bad motor mounts maybe? Something else? I've heard some bad things about the clutch I have, could this be part of its break-in period? I would love any thoughts or opinions on this.

Thanks.
 

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What are you working on?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
At the moment I'm not working on anything as I just put the new transmission in a couple of weeks ago.
 

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what car are you working on?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh boy... sorry about that! Haven't had my coffee yet. It's a 67 Camaro, engine is a 350 (not original, was put in the car by my uncle about 10 years ago), a new M22W, rear-end is a stock 10-bolt (not sure on the gears but I believe they're something in the 2s).
EDIT: I should also mention that the engine was originally an inline 6.
 

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Any sounds from rear end, thinking maybe missing teeth on differantal?
Could also check mounts, flywheel, make sure driveshaft is not bent or way out of balance.
Could also be dampener, lots to check. Hard to diagnose.

Any other symtoms? Such as noises, vibrations, sputtering etc.?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hm, I've never noticed any sounds coming from the back but I can try and listen for that. The car is pretty loud though, I think that would be hard to hear.

Flywheel was resurfaced and looked good.

New transmission mount (rubber) was used.

Driveshaft "looked" okay (what do I know) but I could try and check that somehow. Not sure if I can look at the motor mounts to see an issue?

No other noticable symptoms in the few rides I've had since it's been running, but I haven't really gone and opened it up quite yet because I don't want this to break something else...
 

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Motor mounts should be pretty easy to see if broke, rev the car and watch them, you should see them lift and seperate, but I really doubt it's an engibe mount causing what you are describing.

Could be caused by lack of fuel or air to engine under load, check timing and plugs.

Could be worn or lose U joints, tire out of balance, warped drums or rotors.

Hope this helps some, it's just hard to tell ya what all it can be with out being in the car when it happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That's actually very helpful, thank you! I'll see if I can find a buddy who knows more about cars than I do to take a ride with me to see what he thinks. I really appreciate you pointing me in the right direction though!
 

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Are the tires spinning when you get on it. Maybe it's wheel hop.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It doesn't feel like the tire is spinning, but I will check that out too.

I had forgotten because the car was sitting for so long, that the driver's side tire (which I believe is the wheel that is powered by the rear-end) is narrower than the other tires.
Long story short, someone had cut my tire one day and a friend had a tire laying around that was the right wheel size just "skinnier" than the others. I believe it's a 205 (maybe a little less) where the rest are 235. Could that be part of the problem? Maybe it threw the balance off as well? Never even considered that could be an issue.
 

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slipping clutch.
 

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You could have a new clutch/pressure plate/fly wheel and still have what is know as clutch chatter. Does the shaking/vibration quit after the clutch is fully released?

I had the really bad shaking when releasing the clutch and had my transmission out 3 times before I discovered that I had a worn clutch fork and also a badly worn bearing retainer. I replaced those parts and it is smooth as silk.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You could have a new clutch/pressure plate/fly wheel and still have what is know as clutch chatter. Does the shaking/vibration quit after the clutch is fully released?

I had the really bad shaking when releasing the clutch and had my transmission out 3 times before I discovered that I had a worn clutch fork and also a badly worn bearing retainer. I replaced those parts and it is smooth as silk.
Interesting, I guess I don't really know what a worn clutch fork and bearing retainer would look like... But I did reuse the existing parts because they looked to be in okay shape. I used a new McLeod adjustable TOB. I would HATE to have to pull the transmission again!!! That crossmember and I are not friends...
 

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I would HATE to have to pull the transmission again!!! That cross member and I are not friends...
Believe me. After I did it 3 times, I feel your pain.

You need to get a good old fashion"car guy" to drive your car. They could probably eliminate a lot of things or narrow down your problem area.

If you end up pulling the tranny again, check the bearing carrier all the way around. It should not have any grooved or low spots. That will cause your throw out bearing to put uneven pressure on the fingers of your pressure plate. If the clutch releases unevenly, you can get clutch chatter. The carrier is the "snout" on the tranny that t/o bearing slides on. Good Luck.
 

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That crossmember and I are not friends...
Sounds like the body mount bushings are collapsed. If they are, it can be a real bear to get the crossmember out. If they are in good shape, it's not a big deal to pull the crossmember. Loosening the 4 mounting bolts can help with getting it out. Spray them down with some good penetrating oil and let them soak a couple days first. Be warned that if you do replace the mounts, there's a good chance the subframe holes for the bushings are rusty and may need fixed, too. These things tend to snowball.
 

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If the rear end is positraction it could be an issue with the tire size mismatch (diameter) and the differential limited slip plates grabbing/slipping
 
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