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1967 Chevrolet RS Camaro
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My 1967 700r4 automatic 350ci carburated RS Camaro was running fine. I took my RS to a car show, and it got dark. I say this because I think I have driven it in the dark twice, and maybe will help to diagnose. Anyway, it was running fine, lights weren't dim and didn't get dim and brightness didn't fluctuate. Only thing I noticed on the way home, was the radio would cut out and come back. I didn't think anything of it, just thought maybe it was my blue tooth connection. I got home and was backing into the garage and my car just shut off suddenly. it was like I had turned the ignition off, but I hadn't. I have no headlights, no dash lights, no radio. turn the key, and nothing. it is completely dead. I had also noticed a couple of times previously, when I would turn the key, it wouldn't do anything, and I would try again, and it would crank. I checked the battery and it had 12.8v. I checked for voltage at the fuse box, and nothing. 0v. Checked the voltage at the terminal behind the battery, and got 12.8v. checked it at the alternator and read fine there to. Anybody got any clue what is going on and where my problem may be? Any help is appreciated.
 

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Never worked on a '67, but if they are like the '69s, from that fusible link behind the battery, there should be a heavy wire going to the voltage regulator. That would be the next place to look.
 

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See if you have power on the battery wire going through the bulkhead connector. Don't know the color but is probably red and around a 12 gauge. It should be in the same group of wires from the headlights and front end lighting.

I wonder if you lost power past the horn relay buss as there is also another fusible link on that wire that then is attached to the horn relay buss and then goes into the loom and then goes to and through the bulkhead to the fuse block (as well as the headlight and the ignition switch).

Jim
 

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1967 Chevrolet RS Camaro
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the help everybody. Gave some ideas of where to looks. Check the connector behind the battery and I knew all was good there already, but started tracing wires from there to the horn relay and alternator and then from the horn relay to the firewall. Was getting power at the horn relay so I knew the 12v wire going from there to the firewall had power, but no power at the fuse box. I noticed the 12v wire going from the horn relay to the firewall looked like it was going into a connector, so was going to pull the connector and start checking there. Soon as I put any pressure on the connector, I heard the car power up and then went dead again. Pushed the connector in a little and it powered up again and stayed powered up. Looks like the connector at the firewall just came loose somehow. Guess I should see if I can figure out a way to secure it so it doesn't happen again. Thanks again everybody.
 

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I'm thinking you should have a firewall bulkhead connector like below and if so there is a center bolt that holds things tight and together.

Hopefully the main power feed wires terminal is not pushed out of the connector housing.



Here is an album with some pictures of the nut that is needed to allow the bolt to hold things tight:


This is the engine side plug that on it you can see some terminals corroded which might be your issue.



Jim
 

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1967 Chevrolet RS Camaro
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Discussion Starter #6
My connector doesn't look like that. I have two separate connectors. There is no bolt or screw to hold them in. Wish there was. Mine looks like if has two openings on either side of the one coming loose and when you slide it on there are two tabs that slide into the openings and latch. Looks like those tabs are not latching and I cannot push it on enough to make it latch. I looked for another fuse block that I could purchase with those tabs on it, but couldn't find one anywhere. I put a small amount of glue on the tabs to keep it from coming loose, but have not driven the car since I did that. Got a cruise coming up tomorrow and a small show on Saturday. We'll see if it holds, but I am going to keep looking to get it fixed correctly.
 

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Al - Waterloo, Iowa
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Has your harness been removed? Are you having trouble with both sides or just one? The connector pins may not be straight. I had quite a time getting my harness lined up with the bulk head connector due to the pins being loose in the connector. Just the way they are made. With them lined up I had to push like hell to get it latched. The pins and connector should be assembled with a non hardening (dielectric I believe) grease. The grease was supplied with my new harness.
 

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My connector doesn't look like that. I have two separate connectors. There is no bolt or screw to hold them in. Wish there was. Mine looks like if has two openings on either side of the one coming loose and when you slide it on there are two tabs that slide into the openings and latch. Looks like those tabs are not latching and I cannot push it on enough to make it latch. I looked for another fuse block that I could purchase with those tabs on it, but couldn't find one anywhere. I put a small amount of glue on the tabs to keep it from coming loose, but have not driven the car since I did that. Got a cruise coming up tomorrow and a small show on Saturday. We'll see if it holds, but I am going to keep looking to get it fixed correctly.
The engine bay side of the connector is two pieces that mesh together. My bolt has been lost since the eighties and it can pop off and you are dead in the water until you plug it back in. I am sure the bolt is available somewhere but I have never really looked. I don't drive much and never created a case inviting corrosion but pull it off and check it.
 

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My connector doesn't look like that. I have two separate connectors. There is no bolt or screw to hold them in. Wish there was. Mine looks like if has two openings on either side of the one coming loose and when you slide it on there are two tabs that slide into the openings and latch. Looks like those tabs are not latching and I cannot push it on enough to make it latch. I looked for another fuse block that I could purchase with those tabs on it, but couldn't find one anywhere. I put a small amount of glue on the tabs to keep it from coming loose, but have not driven the car since I did that. Got a cruise coming up tomorrow and a small show on Saturday. We'll see if it holds, but I am going to keep looking to get it fixed correctly.
Post up some pictures of what you do have. Who knows if what you have has been modified, changed or butchered up.

Pictures can tell us a lot and don't be shy with them.

I do know on a multipin connector they will be harder to put together than just a single male and female setup and then throw into the mix is a pin or two is off a tad on alignment how much harder things would be to put together due to the misalignments.Be glad it's not some super small pin and socket connection to where if a pin is off too much it will not line up and then get bent over to one side or another and things don;t work and connect like they should.

Jim
 

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You can use a 1/4-20 X1.5 inch hex head screw & flat washer.
 

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The OP is working on a 67. It does not have a bolt through the bulk head connector. It has 4 latches.
Yep that is true. I keep forgetting just the 67 had that style and then went to another style like I showed with the center bolt in 68.

Jim
 

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1967 Chevrolet RS Camaro
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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, Allenjs, that is it. Just can't get it pushed in far enough for it to lock in, or, those latches are just shot. It is holding for now though since I pushed it in as far as I could get it and then put a drop of glue on either side.
 

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Same problem as the C2 Corvettes. Laugh if you want and call me BUBBA: I took tooth picks to put under the male tab after I got it aligned with the female slot. Broke the toothpicks off flush with each end of the male tab. Could have painted them black, but then it wouldn't be BUBBA.

Ron
 
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