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Discussion Starter #1
So my car wouldn't start, just made one click then nothing.

These were removed and tested

-Battery, Said was good just low- Had recharged

-Starter, said it was fine

-Alternator, said it was poop. I replaced it.

-I tested the ignition switch, by turning the key and 12 volts were going to the starter.

So now with new alternator and recharged battery I turn it over and same thing, one click, but now the positive battery terminal is getting warm. Need help, I suck
 

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Remove the clamp and clean with wire brush, both the post and clamp.
Do both clamps and posts.

As current passes through the junction of the clamp and post, the resistance absorbs power and dissipates it as heat, 100% in, 80% heat, 20% power out.
 

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100% what Everett said. If the terminal on the cable or the post is eroded from arcing, you may need to replace the cable and/or battery. Try cleaning the terminal and clamp first, though. Doesn't cost anything but 5 minutes.
 

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Well, if it is not the connections, which is it is 75% of the time, But you say your battery wires are getting hot, that sounds like your starter could be drawing too many amps, you might have a bad armature, etc, so it could be your starter is bad. You can test your starter and solenoid by jumping the starter solenoid, using a remote starter switch, if you have one or if you are careful by jumping the positive battery terminal at the the starter to the "S" terminal on the solenoid with a small flat-bladed screwdriver. When doing so it should crank the engine, if it still clicks, the starter/solenoid has to be bad. The other thing you might want to check is to make sure the engine turns over by hand. By putting a socket on the front crankshaft pulley bolt and turn it clockwise, the engine should turn fairly easy. If it don't turn, your engine could have coolant in the cylinder(s) causing it to be hydro-statically locked, being that engine coolant will not compress when the engine is turned and locks the motor, or worse, like a seized camshaft, timing chain, broken rod, etc..
 

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Assuming battery is fully charged, 12.6 volts and load tested, and both batt cables cleaned at both ends.

Put the car up on ramps or stands, and connect a remote start button between the S terminal and the pos batt terminal on the solenoid.

Remove dust cover if present so that you can see the starter pinion gear.

Trans in neutral or park, and coil wire disconnected.

Crawl under the car, and looking at the starter gear, hit the remote start button, and observe whether or not the starter pinion gear moves to contact the flywheel/flexplate.

If it does, but starter motor doesn't engage at all, suspect a bad solenoid. Remove starter, then remove solenoid from starter. Remove end cap from solenoid and flip the big copper washer around so that the unused side is now the contact point. Lubricate solenoid plunger, reinstall the solenoid to the starter, then reinstall the whole shebang and see what you get. If that doesn't cure the problem, the starter motor itself is likely toast.

If the pinion doesn't move at all with a remote start button and otherwise sound batt
& cables it's likely a faulty solenoid.
 

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Further to Al above... u dont need a remore starter, just an old screw driver and jump the terminals on the back of the starter... yes u do get a good spark...hence the "old" screwdriver.
And assuming terminals/ baterry all good...
Solenoid as Al states. the other 2 issues are
1/ worn bushes/ bearings on the armiture
2/ Worn bushes.. very rare in practice as these generally out last several solenoids/ armitures.
3/ A armiture that has had a lot of use with an over advanced intial timing causing dry joints... this is tested on a growller, and symptoms are usually just a click when engine has warmed up.

A Terminal or lead getting hot is a sure sign of bad connection as per Everett above.

Its all about maintaince....regular service/ maintaince... and these thing DONT happen.
 

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I don't like recommending the screwdriver method because the risk is there of welding the screwdriver to the car if you accidentally hit ground while on the pos batt stud - core meltdown being the possible result. A remote button is handy in the toolbox whether doing this test, adjusting valves, installing distributor, etc. and inexpensive.
 

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I don't like recommending the screwdriver method because the risk is there of welding the screwdriver to the car if you accidentally hit ground while on the pos batt stud - core meltdown being the possible result.
Yeah fair comment... but in practice that spark, 1st time around gives on a bit of a fright and the instinctive pull back.
And if one is "careless" or what I would call, stupid enough, to ground out and hold it hard and long enough to weld rather than it blow a hole in the end of the screwdriver... hence why I suggest an old screw driver.
I tend to give people some basic commonsence.... like knowing to sort out a battery is not a good idea.
 

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just out of curiosity--is this a column or florr shift car? auto or manual?

IF this was once a column shift, and is now a floor shift, are you sure the column has not rotated to trigger the neutral safety switch?

OR that the neutral safety switch is going bad?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This is floor shift, converted from column shift. Where is the neutral safety switch located?
 

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neutral safety switch (if not connected to the floor shifter already would be Concetts at the base of the steering column, to the same "switch setup" as the backup lights...

You can unplug it and try to "jump" the connection--that is what I did on mine many years ago...

When you converted, did you swap out the column, or just remove the shifter lever and indicator? The part that the lever connects to could have "slipped" into what would have been reverse, and triggered the Neutral safety switch...if that is the case for now, you could just rotate it back to what would have been "Park", and see if it cranks...even doing that, though, the switch itself could just be bad...

Happened to me a long time, ago, which is what made me think of it...
 
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