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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have changed about everything I can think of and my car still won't start. The things I've changed are fuel pump, fuel filter, new holley 750,new plugs,cap, rotor,points,plug wires. I know I should change over to HEI but that would just be something else I could screw-up. I don't seem to be getting any spark to my plugs. I looked at the points while my wife cranked the car and they didn't seem to be opening and closing.I'm out of ideas.Am I missing something.I checked my wires to the coil and I'm pretty sure they are in the right place. By the way I also but on a new coil.
 

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Well, your post said that your points were the problem. Usually they should open and close. If you are serious, then my advice would be to take some of that money you have been spending on parts and buy yourself a nice little tuneup book for your vehicle. Spend more time reading and less time buying. If you are having a little fun, here ya go: ha ha
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
jbradway:I realize that you think that I'm just throwing parts at my engine in hopes that it will start,but that is not the case. My fuel pump went out. My carb was old and nasty looking. all the rest of the parts I changed were basic tune-up stuff that my engine needed anyway.I know everyone wants to be a critic but I can get all I want from my wife. Besides I'm just a stupid ******* from south Georgia what do you expect LOL!!
 

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If the points don't open and close the car won't start;no spark. Check that first. If you have a dwell meter set them to 30 degrees. If not, gap them at about .019". Should be close. Take the cap off and bump the starter until the arm of the points is touching any of the eight points of the distributor cam (the octagon-shaped thing under the rotor). The car should fire if that's the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks. Do I bump the starter until the cam is on the points and then set my gap?
 

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Pull the coil wire out of the distributor and let it lean against the firewall. Crank it. Any spark? If not then check for voltage at the coil + terminal (while cranking). If you have voltage (while cranking), then the points aren't opening, are shorted out, or the condensor (or wire) is no good.
 

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Sorry zgator, I wasn't trying to make fun of you. I just figured if you had enough mechanical knowledge to replace that much stuff, you would have picked up on the idea that your problem was the points not opening. I thought you might be pulling our leg. Kind of like the post about the guy who got locked out of his convertible with the top down. Lord knows I'm no genius. I took my truck to a mechanic when it kept dying after a driving a block. I replaced the fuel pump, filter, tested the coil and bunch of other stuff. Turns out that I had a bad gas cap and a bunch of water got into the gas tank. Well the water just swelled up my paper fuel filter and blocked off the fuel flow. A little dry gas and a non-paper fuel filter fixed it up. Still, you really do need a reference book to get the dwell settings, dist timing, etc. good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
jbradway: I didn't mean nothing by that I was just cuttin' the fool. I figured you were too> I'm just no good at anything electrical.If I take the coil wire off and do the firewall thing and I don't have any spark would that mean my voltage regulator is bad?.This car is a 70z with the orignal lt-1 if that makes a dif.
 

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Zgator, please, whatever you do, keep that car away from the swamp. It likes to swallow Z's whole.


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Steve
67 SS 396,4-sp
67 RS 327,4-sp
72 RS 350/350
69 4X4 suburban 350,4-sp
73 3/4 ton 454/400
http://www.geocities.com/stevocamaro
 

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Zgator,
If you have a dwell meter, connect it and pull the coil wire and crank it while watching the meter. If no reading turn the points adjuster allen screw in a turn, or out a turn until you get a reading. set at 30 degrees and plug in the coil wire and start it.
It's best to re set dwell when the engine is running, sometimes the reading changes from the cranking reading.

A good way to test for point operation is to connect a 12v test light from ground to the coil - terminal. Then crank the engine and the light should blink on and off. If it stays on you have too much point gap, if it stays off, you have too little point gap or no juice to the coil, or a short in the distributor or condenser.

When the points are closed, the voltage would rather go to ground than thru the test light as the bulb has more resistance.

Make shure you got the indexing pin of the point set into the locating hole in the distributor. I've seen where they missed the hole and cranked down on the screws and bent the points. It can be set but will quickly wear the rubbing block as it is not flat on the cam lobes and the dwell will change and fry the points.

Also make shure where you connect the wires and condensor to the points that there is no grounding.
Good luck, David

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The older I get, the faster I was!
 

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Hey ZGATOR,
This is a crazy question but, is the distributor shaft (rotor cap) turning when you crank it over?
No offence intended with this one Z but if this is giving you this much of a fit now, just take that variable out now and get a used HEI in that 70. Ya won't have to fool around with those darn points every couple months.
A used HEI should be around $50.00 bucks and take ya about 30 min. max to replace.
It only has 2 wires, 1 for the tach, and the other is your ignition 12 volt power supply( on when ya turn the key on, power off when the key is in the off position).Good luck
 

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Zgator I must agree with the above post as I have a 71 and replacing my points with the HEI was the first thing that I did. No more "HEADACHES".


71 Camairo
 

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I've had the black wire between the negative post on the coil which goes down and then up through the bottom of the distributor to the points break before. The wire insulation looked to be intact, but the copper wire inside had gotten brittle over the years and broke.
So check for no resistance on this wire with an ohm meter and you can also check 12volts coming from the positive wire to the coil. The positive wire has a different construction where it is almost a braided/shielded wire (which you can't see because it is hidden in the wire wrapping tape) and this positive wire will handle huge current before melting. Where the negative coil wire will smoke immediately if you shorted it against the firewall.

Hey, coils have been known to fail also.
 

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One added thought. The original coil also had a radio noise suppression capacitor located on the coil bracket. That little capacitor could have a short also when you have the key turned on and due to the above description of the positive wire, the positive wire probably wouldn't fail, but it sure would get hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks guys for all the help.This car was running although not that good with the bad fuel pump. I changed the fuel pump and decided to put all the tune up stuff on.I hope to put this advice to use this weekend.
 
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