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There is such a thing as too much clutch. At 425hp, you would be better off with an aftermarket single disc organic/diaphragm clutch than you would be with most any of the dual disc clutches.

Grant
 

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1969 Camaro SS350
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
All good advice guys. THANKS. Leaning towards the CenterForce single disc setup. Haven't put in order yet. Waiting for paycheck and the O/T that I put in that should cover it. I felt dual disc was unnecessary for HP of car and way I drive it, plus the added expense. Car is just a cruiser. My wife says I don't have a budget when it comes to my car. Now I can show her how I saved money. Probable a bad idea, she will get some crazy idea that money saved is then for her.😉
 

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Centerforce II Clutch Kits KCFT355216
Anyone have any experience with this clutch package? Trying to find something with easy clutch pedal but is capable working with roughly 425 HP. Mostly street driven
I have have one in my 69Z28, for 3 years now, 2,500 miles on car works great, light pedal pressure. I would switch out that needle pilot bearing for a original bronze style bushing. National Brand PB-656-HD, and no they are not magnetic. I you want that car to come alive install the M20 gear set in the trans, a world of difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
I have have one in my 69Z28, for 3 years now, 2,500 miles on car works great, light pedal pressure. I would switch out that needle pilot bearing for a original bronze style bushing. National Brand PB-656-HD, and no they are not magnetic. I you want that car to come alive install the M20 gear set in the trans, a world of difference.
Current trans is an M20 with 3.73 12bolt with positraction. Mild built 350, Comp Hyd roller cam setup, Dart 200cc Aluminum cylinder heads. Weisco forged pistons with Scat rods. Seems to run alright.🙂
 

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I am glad you guys are on this topic any recommendations for a m20 4 speed ? Fly wheel and clutch ?
Unless you enjoy buying tires every few months for burn outs, then save yourself the trouble and go down to the NAPA store and just go back stock with their clutch/ pressure plate/ throw out bearing kits and alleviate stiff pedal problems! I have a 70 Z28 with over 400 hp with a M22 rock crusher and the Napa stock set works just fine! Just my opinion
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Well, Ordered a complete clutch kit Centerforce II (KCFT355216). Received it Thursday and spent the day today changing it out. Old clutch setup was also a Centerforce maybe 15-20 years old. In car when I bought it. Didn't look to bad but boy does the new one ever work better. Old one had a moderate peddle push and had an issue trying to adjust clutch. Throw out bearing was shot and making noise when peddle pushed in. New one is quite now, easy peddle and everything works great. Couldn't be happier. Now time to clean the beast up. Summer is just about upon us. Thanks all for the input guys. Great Site.
Greg Story
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Typically just "normal" driving for the 1st 500 mi (read no 5k clutch dumps)

Hope OP replaced the pilot bushing also. For Muncie a bushing is the way to go. For Tremec use a needle bearing type (per Tremec)
Came with needle bearing pilot, replaced with bushing. Took out first extended drive this morning. Hwy cruise. No 5 grand hole shots. Breaking paper work said 500 miles easy driving.
 

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Typically just "normal" driving for the 1st 500 mi (read no 5k clutch dumps)
I just installed a McLeod clutch in my car. McLeod's directions were 1000-1500 clutch engagement cycles. I know apples to green apples comparison here, but they had an explanation for it. To give a break-in in miles doesn't account for engagement cycles. Highway driving does little for break in. The clutch should I guess "bed in", that happens through engagement cycles, not miles.

No way I am not counting. I only have about 10 miles on my new clutch. 500 miles sounds like a good number to me.
 

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yeah just a long 500mi drive is not a full break-in. The assumption is "normal" street, hwy use where there are many clutch use strokes/engagements. Basically, you don't want to just biatch slap the clutch right out of the box.

I watched a Hot Rod garage episode recently where they installed a new clutch, McLeod, and Alex Taylor was tasked with doing the 1k pedal pushes.....(insert face palm emoji here)....the motor was not running let alone any drag on clutch...it was just an exercise of hydraulics use. Had zero effect in "bedding" the clutch. You need to put some city miles on it
 
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