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Discussion Starter #1
I have had this 67 SS Camaro for 30 years now, gen 1 SBC stroker with a T350. I found my engine mounts were bad and decided to replace them with the newer style Energy Suspension style and the tranny mount too. Getting things apart wasn't hard at all, trying to get the new mounts lined up started causing problems so I dropped the driveline and the exhaust to help. I fought like hell to get the new mounts bolted back up but finally succeeded today and for some reason the driveline is too long. The engine mounts were the same as the old ones in dimensions. The tranny mount sits in the right spot and is bolted to the crossmember and bolted to the frame.

I go to the back of the car and the driveline is about 1-2" too long to go back into the rearend?? It seems like my exhaust is pushed back too. I figure if the engine was pushed back the tranny wouldn't mount up correctly? I only changed the mounts, everything else is the same, any help would be appreciated.

Happy Father's Day to all you Dad's out there.
 

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No way your engine moved back that much if at all.
Only thing I can think off is the drive line is not going all the way in the trans ?
I use the same energy mounts.
 

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If your engine moved back that far your dizzy would be in the firewall.
Agree with ilikeike
Never should have removed the shaft. maybe a burr on thee spline won't let it seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I agree with you guys, went out and pulled the driveline and reseated it. Nothing changed, but I guess I am only about 1/2' or so actually from getting it back on the rear axle. Probably just the heat, been over 90 the last few day and I am just out of easy answers. I checked the distributor to firewall and that seems about the same, so I am back to just not having a clue what changed.
 

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this is certainly a puzzle. The only thing that makes sense is that your splines wore in over time and it doesnt fit right where you have it. Your yoke should show where the seal is running. Can you see if its getting back in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have it slide all the way in, that is what’s frustrating. Something is pushing it back is the only conclusion I have. Maybe the new mounts are just off a bit?
 

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Mike
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This is only a guess... but are there specific "drivers side" and "passengers side" mounts?...
and could they have possibly been mixed up during install?
 

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If the x member bolts up than the motor is not to far back

the engine and trans may now be sitting slightly higher because of new, fresh, mounts but that should not move it back 2"

Is the fan/shroud position the same as before the MM swap?
 

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If the cross member has slotted bolt holes for the trans mount the engine and trans could have moved. My buddy's '69 with a small block sits about 1 1/2" closer to the radiator core than my '69 with a small block. I know engine mounts for '69 performance vs lower power small blocks changed where the engine sits. The sub frame might also have slipped if you have bad frame bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What I have noticed is that when I dropped the driveline from the rearend there was enough play to push it forward into the tranny to remove. Now the drive line is completely inserted into the tranny and I still need about 1/2" to get the driveline into the rearend. I have tried jacking the rearend up to change the angle but that hasn't helped. The subframe bushings are about maybe 15 years old, I used stock material on those back then. When I finally got the engine to sit onto the frame mounts (still stock) I had to use a ratchet strap to help pull the motor forward, because I wasn't using an engine hoist.

I also noticed that when I bolted the exhaust back up to the heads that I had to force back the exhaust to get the flanges to meet. Not sure if that means anything, but it just makes me feel like the engine/tranny assembly is pushing back somehow.

when looking at the water pump pulley and my electric fan the gap seems larger then before, but I never thought to measure that.

the engine mounts can be installed on either side of the motor.

I appreciate all the feedback!
 

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using a 1/2" bolt about 4" long or something similar in size, can you get it in the sub-frame and body alignment hole on each side (next to middle sub frame bolt)?

if not than sub frame and body are now not aligned

ironically when I did my PG to TH350 swap my trans would not line up to x member. It was about 1" to far forward because the MM had separated from the lowering the rear of motor some to remove trans. I used a floor jack under motor and my HF trans jack under trans to slightly take the weight of and kicked the floor jack back and the engine and trans moved with just one push.

Your issue is the reverse with engine trans being to far back now so if your sub frame to body holes do not match up with the subframe now being rearward...you will have to align that so your DS fits again

Did you raise the motor and remove both engine mounts at same time or do 1 side at a time?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
using a 1/2" bolt about 4" long or something similar in size, can you get it in the sub-frame and body alignment hole on each side (next to middle sub frame bolt)?

if not than sub frame and body are now not aligned

ironically when I did my PG to TH350 swap my trans would not line up to x member. It was about 1" to far forward because the MM had separated from the lowering the rear of motor some to remove trans. I used a floor jack under motor and my HF trans jack under trans to slightly take the weight of and kicked the floor jack back and the engine and trans moved with just one push.

Your issue is the reverse with engine trans being to far back now so if your sub frame to body holes do not match up with the subframe now being rearward...you will have to align that so your DS fits again

Did you raise the motor and remove both engine mounts at same time or do 1 side at a time?
How do I re-align the sub frame properly?
 

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You shouldn't have had to fight your engine mounts that much. A 67 should have the short and wide engine mounts and frame stands... STOCK. In 50 years things change and people change engines etc.and you never know what is actually original It sounds to me like you have newer (1969 tall and narrow frame stands and you forced short and wide engine mounts on them. Your transmission mount on the trans crossmember is slotted and can move about 1/2".
 

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Here is a short and wide engine mount.
263607
Here is a tall and narrow engine mount.
263608
Here are short and wide frame mounts.
263610
Here are tall and narrow frame mounts
263611
 

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Transmission Crossmember
263612
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You shouldn't have had to fight your engine mounts that much. A 67 should have the short and wide engine mounts and frame stands... STOCK. In 50 years things change and people change engines etc.and you never know what is actually original It sounds to me like you have newer (1969 tall and narrow frame stands and you forced short and wide engine mounts on them. Your transmission mount on the trans crossmember is slotted and can move about 1/2".
I measured the frame mounts and they are 2 5/8" wide, or close to that. I didn't have to force them on the mounts, I dry fitted them before bolting to the engine.
 

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How do I re-align the sub frame properly?
Do your alignment holes no longer line up?

IDK if there is a service manual described procedure to re-align sub-frame to body. Basically you would need to loosen all the sub-frame bolts and get the body up slightly, maybe using wood blocks, then with floor jack and tranny jack just taking the weight of the motor/trans push/pull the jacks to see if you can move it. I would loosen the trans mount also but leave bolts in

Maybe with the help with a few friends or some way to "pull" the body back some

But if you just did MM and the subframe busings were done at some other time and everything fit & lined up....I would think this has more to do with the MM you installed.

You didn't do sub-frame & MM at same time did you?
 

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I am sure that it has been covered before, but can you see the seal mark on the transmission yoke ? If the yoke is not pushed in far enough you should see the mark on the Yoke. Make sure that your engine oil pan is not sitting on the main crossmember. These cars do require a specific oil pan and many aftermarket pans will not work (fit). In the AIM, it will tell you how to align the subframe. You should be able to insert a 5/8 rod in the alignment holes. If you need a smaller rod to fit in the hole it is not in line.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
How do I re-align the sub frame properly?
using a 1/2" bolt about 4" long or something similar in size, can you get it in the sub-frame and body alignment hole on each side (next to middle sub frame bolt)?

if not than sub frame and body are now not aligned

ironically when I did my PG to TH350 swap my trans would not line up to x member. It was about 1" to far forward because the MM had separated from the lowering the rear of motor some to remove trans. I used a floor jack under motor and my HF trans jack under trans to slightly take the weight of and kicked the floor jack back and the engine and trans moved with just one push.

Your issue is the reverse with engine trans being to far back now so if your sub frame to body holes do not match up with the subframe now being rearward...you will have to align that so your DS fits again

Did you raise the motor and remove both engine mounts at same time or do 1 side at a time?
I checked and my alignment holes are not perpendicular, so maybe this is my problem.
Do your alignment holes no longer line up?

IDK if there is a service manual described procedure to re-align sub-frame to body. Basically you would need to loosen all the sub-frame bolts and get the body up slightly, maybe using wood blocks, then with floor jack and tranny jack just taking the weight of the motor/trans push/pull the jacks to see if you can move it. I would loosen the trans mount also but leave bolts in

Maybe with the help with a few friends or some way to "pull" the body back some

But if you just did MM and the subframe busings were done at some other time and everything fit & lined up....I would think this has more to do with the MM you installed.

You didn't do sub-frame & MM at same time did you?
No I did not, only MM which is why this is so weird. I checked the subframe alignment holes and they are close. I can get a rod all the way up inside both of them, the rod just isn't perpendicular. I am thinking maybe I had the DL at the maximum length and when I pulled apart the assembly everything rested to where they want to be. I completely rebuilt the rear suspension about 3 years ago with new Eaton multi-leaf drop springs and added a comp engineering traction bars.But that was all aligned to the bar in the axle and it hasn't moved.
 
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