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Discussion Starter #21
Here are pics of my mounts. Do the frame mounts look like stock? I always thought they were hanging over.
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The subframe didn’t not move. Is so you’d have way more issues with the core support and other things.

it’s possible it was not correct to start with.

putting the DS into the tranny all the way and pulling back 3/4”-1” it where it should be when installed and bolted to the rear end.

simply changing the mounts is not going to alter the fore/aft position of the engine.
 

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Yep I was wondering where the sub frame came into this. Frustration. Walk away come back later.
 

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Let's see a picture of the driveshaft at the transmission when you think you have it pushed all the way in.
 

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Check your oil pan, please, as I mentioned before !
 

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Other than you're missing a bolt on the right side mount they look correct. As Bill said post a pic of the driveshaft in the trans. And as John said you'd have many more problems if the subframe moved.
Bolts should come from below like Ilikeike's. Same as structural steel. If the nut comes off the bolt drops leaving a hole rather than you see a bolt head and not know there id no nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I am sure that it has been covered before, but can you see the seal mark on the transmission yoke ? If the yoke is not pushed in far enough you should see the mark on the Yoke. Make sure that your engine oil pan is not sitting on the main crossmember. These cars do require a specific oil pan and many aftermarket pans will not work (fit). In the AIM, it will tell you how to align the subframe. You should be able to insert a 5/8 rod in the alignment holes. If you need a smaller rod to fit in the hole it is not in line.
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Well I'm stumped, motor looks in right place and drive shaft look seated. Did you do anything else besides motor mounts and trans mount? Drive shafts generally don't grow.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Well I'm stumped, motor looks in right place and drive shaft look seated. Did you do anything else besides motor mounts and trans mount? Drive shafts generally don't grow.
I even had a performance shop owner stop by because he didn't believe what I was telling them. I think I will have it towed to their shop to put on the rack. I can't figure this out. I did notice my lower radiator hose seems stretched now and rubbing on a bracket. I checked and there is now sign of previous where on the hose. I was just going to have my DL shortened, but don't want to have another issue if everything stretches back out after driving. This is just completely baffling.....
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Well I'm stumped, motor looks in right place and drive shaft look seated. Did you do anything else besides motor mounts and trans mount? Drive shafts generally don't grow.
and no the mounts were the only change...
 

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Well I'm certainly looking forward to hearing what this turns out to be. You didn't disconnect the trans and maybe don't have that pushed all the way in? I guess not if the trans mounts line up ok. Sure you didn't mix up the driveshaft with one you had laying around? lol. You didn't play with the rear end at all? Don't get this at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Well I'm certainly looking forward to hearing what this turns out to be. You didn't disconnect the trans and maybe don't have that pushed all the way in? I guess not if the trans mounts line up ok. Sure you didn't mix up the driveshaft with one you had laying around? lol. You didn't play with the rear end at all? Don't get this at all.
I know I wish it was just something stupid I did, like using the longer driveline.... I redid the rear suspension about 4 years ago but don't see how that would have be something that showed up now. I think I would have known or heard that something was wrong back there by now. Plus when I disconnected the u-bolts I slide the drive line forward to get the driveline off the rear axle. None of it makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Bolts should come from below like Ilikeike's. Same as structural steel. If the nut comes off the bolt drops leaving a hole rather than you see a bolt head and not know there id no nut.
Actually the factory used cage nuts that were connected underneath, I still have 5 of the 6. It is very hard to get inside the subframe to change those.
 

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Plus when I disconnected the u-bolts I slide the drive line forward to get the driveline off the rear axle. None of it makes sense.
I'm not understanding this last comment. Plus when I disconnected the u-bolts I slide the drive line forward to get the driveline off the rear axle. None of it makes sense. Can you explain that one please?
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I'm not understanding this last comment. Plus when I disconnected the u-bolts I slide the drive line forward to get the driveline off the rear axle. None of it makes sense. Can you explain that one please?
To get the U Joint off the seat at the rear axle, I had enough play in the drive line to move it slightly forward to disconnect it. My problem now is the U Joint is behind where it would seat on the rear axle by about an inch. I figure if the assembly was too tight(pushing on the drive line into the tranny and axle) I would not have been able to slide it apart. Does that make sense?
 

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To get the U Joint off the seat at the rear axle, I had enough play in the drive line to move it slightly forward to disconnect it. My problem now is the U Joint is behind where it would seat on the rear axle by about an inch. I figure if the assembly was too tight(pushing on the drive line into the tranny and axle) I would not have been able to slide it apart. Does that make sense?
Ok, got it now. I was thinking you meant you undid Ubolts on the rear end housing. What you describe is normal, undo the small u-bolts into the rear u-joint yoke and then slide the driveshaft forward a bit to clear the side ears on the yoke. Completely normal, I can't see how anything has changed. What distributor are you using? A stock one or a larger HEI unit? Can you take a picture showing the clearance behind the distributor to the firewall? A picture of the driveshaft up against the rear yoke to show the extra length would also be helpful. Thanks
 

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I think we all agree this is a WTF thing.....given the MM were replaced and this problem occurred after...my $.02 is "something" not the same or right about the MM

...but the fact the trans x member still bolts in would indicate the motor is not back any further...unless there are slotted holes both to sub frame and trans mount that allow about 1" of adjustment

and the note about radiator hose looking more "stretched" would indicate the motor is back further

Weird, hope the shop can FIO
 
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