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Actually the trans cross member is slotted but I can't see how that makes a difference. OK, you changed the motor mounts but did no unbolt the stands. You changed the trans mount. Were all of the mounts ever unbolted at the same time? Was there any difficulty dropping new motor mounts on the engine stands meaning no serious prying? Did you unbolt the trans cross member?
 

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Yep, Your oil pan clearance looks fine. Thank You ! During all of this did you put the new mounts in with the rear wheels on the ground and now you have it supported by Jack Stands ? Or at anytime were the rear wheels hanging free like on a hoist ?
 

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How do you have your reaffirm of the car suspended. Perhaps the way it is suspended is seems like you covered everything else in the thread
 

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Discussion Starter #44
So I have an idea of what has happened, thanks to all of the input here. This came to me last night, as I can't stop thinking about this. I am thinking the motor mounts have been broken for many years and I did not know. I put that motor in about 25+ years ago with those motor mounts(I have owned the car for 32 years now). Over the last 7 years I have made these modifications; Lowered front and rear suspension, added multi-leaf springs, added traction bars, had a new drive line made for a new T350. I am thinking that the motor had settled an inch or so forward on the broken motor mounts and I had the driveline cut for that position. Now fast forward and I have positioned the motor where it should actually be, which is not what the newer driveline was fitted for.

My only clue to this is my lower rad hose, it is stretched and rubbing on the alternator bracket. Which it had never done before this because there are no rubbing/wear marks on it. The rad and hoses were all replaced about 5 years ago. Again I fitted it to the engine with broken motor mounts.

What does everyone think about this conclusion? I am thinking I need to have my driveline shortened to the correct length now that everything is bolted in.
 

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I've been following this thread and it all sounds strange. Just thinking outside the box..... Could your rear springs have been put in backward placing the centerbolt foward, causing the driveline to be pushed foward damaging the motor and tranny mounts? Are your rear wheels centerd in the wheel well openings? Could a center bolt have sheared? Everything upfront looks correct.... ? So bizarre.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I've been following this thread and it all sounds strange. Just thinking outside the box..... Could your rear springs have been put in backward placing the centerbolt foward, causing the driveline to be pushed foward damaging the motor and tranny mounts? Are your rear wheels centerd in the wheel well openings? Could a center bolt have sheared? Everything upfront looks correct.... ? So bizarre.
I don't think that is the problem, I did the install and yes the wheels are centered. But that could have been easier to fix too.
 

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Hmmm. Do you know the lenght from U joint center to U joit center on your current drivesahaft? Is your current drive shaft a factory shaft or did you have it built in the past?
 

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I was going to comment that the transmission yoke, looked to be pushed in to far. When you measure to get your drive shaft cut, be sure that the yoke is pushed in all the way and then pull it back out 1/2". Also the slot in the center of your transmission crossmember IS 1.00" long, so with a 3/8" Bolt you have just over 1/2" of adjustment. I assume when you look at it from the bottom the bolts are pushed all the way forward in the slot ? The engine can move quit a bit on the two engine mounts. Not near so much with the poly mounts.

GEDC2261b.jpg GEDC1660br.jpg GEDC1659br.jpg
 

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Over the last 7 years I have made these modifications; Lowered front and rear suspension, added multi-leaf springs, added traction bars, had a new drive line made for a new T350.
..measure your current DS....ideally someone can confirm the length of a "stock" DS...and that may reveal your "new" one was made to long based on your comment that at that time the MM may have been broken making the motor not sit where it should which would have given you a corrupt DS measurement if you took it with the motor forward due to broken mounts
 

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Here is a chart from CRG. It looks like it should be 50"

263745
 

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Discussion Starter #52
..measure your current DS....ideally someone can confirm the length of a "stock" DS...and that may reveal your "new" one was made to long based on your comment that at that time the MM may have been broken making the motor not sit where it should which would have given you a corrupt DS measurement if you took it with the motor forward due to broken mounts
I have the DL out and the length is 52”, center to center of the u-joints. Do you know how or what I should measure from the tranny to the rear axle mount? I felt that 1.5” would be enough to shorten, by measuring the clearance I needed for the u-joint and ears of axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I was going to comment that the transmission yoke, looked to be pushed in to far. When you measure to get your drive shaft cut, be sure that the yoke is pushed in all the way and then pull it back out 1/2". Also the slot in the center of your transmission crossmember IS 1.00" long, so with a 3/8" Bolt you have just over 1/2" of adjustment. I assume when you look at it from the bottom the bolts are pushed all the way forward in the slot ? The engine can move quit a bit on the two engine mounts. Not near so much with the poly mounts.

View attachment 263735 View attachment 263736 View attachment 263737
With poly mounts I really don’t have any play. It was hard enough just getting them in.
 

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First thing that came to mind is... pinion angle. You have same engine/tranny setup, so something is different then when you first dropped the driveshaft. If both engine centerline and pinion are angled down, you are effectivly shortened. Assuming new mounts have identical height, either something has relaxed [worn bushings] or some rear mount points went egg shaped? You might just need to put car weight on the axles and see how pinion angle truly sits.
 

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With poly mounts I really don’t have any play. It was hard enough just getting them in.
I know it doesn't seem like there is much play, but if you unbolt the transmission mount and just lift or lower the back of the transmission and watch how much it changes the clearance at your firewall etc. Is your new transmission mount the same height as the old one ? I know people that have used a longer yoke with a to short driveshaft. It doesn't look like a shorter yoke would help as it can't go into the trans any farther.
The thing is your driveshaft is 2" too long. That is a huge amount. How were you able to use that long of a driveshaft ? If you had never used it before, I would say cut off 2" and that would be it. I know people that have had to shorten their driveshaft after changing the rear end etc, but that is from a stock 50" shaft. You should figure out how and why.
 

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OK I have found that a Nova Driveshaft is 52" long (center of U-joint to center of U - joint.) Here is 1 of many links : FYI -- Nova 8.5" rear and driveshaft length
Nova's and Camaro's vary if using an 8.2 10-bolt vs. an 8.5 10 bolt. I think you have a Nova driveshaft.
 
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