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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a one wire 65 amp alternator with a external voltage regulator. The alternator is bad, I took it this morning to get rebuilt but there were issues with the back bearing( it kept falling out) My question is where can I find this type of alternator in chrome? I found a power master one at summit racing site but the post on the back (positive) seems to be very low on the alternator when installed ( not much clearance). I want one just like I have but there is no brand name on it. I want to keep the same setup. Thanks in advance.
 

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Ebay. I got a 100A on fleabay for $75 shipped. Nice chrome
 

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If I go 100amp wouldn't I have to change batt cables and voltage regulator. I thought about this and I've done it before but it was for something diff and a diff type of alternator.
 

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With a 1-wire you don't need a voltage regulator. All you do is run a wire from the alternator to the positive on the battery.

I updated my wire because the stock stuff was 45 years old.
 

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If I go 100amp wouldn't I have to change batt cables and voltage regulator. I thought about this and I've done it before but it was for something diff and a diff type of alternator.
battery cables, NO !
can't help you with the voltage regulator. I went one wire years ago on all my older vehicles
 

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battery cables, NO !
can't help you with the voltage regulator. I went one wire years ago on all my older vehicles
ssoooo much easier that way. :thumbsup:

Purists will argue but I hated dealing with the regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok my setup now is run 1 wire from the alternator to a regulator below the frame beside the radiator and then run to the battery. I was worried about overcharging. It seems to be a factory setup.
 

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If I go 100amp wouldn't I have to change batt cables and voltage regulator?
No. The cable to your battery will remain the same. You should increase the size of the wire to your horn relay (or main power distribution point) to reflect the increased capabilities of the alternator.

With a 1-wire you don't need a voltage regulator. All you do is run a wire from the alternator to the positive on the battery.

I updated my wire because the stock stuff was 45 years old.
The battery connection should not be used as a power distribution point, you should stick with the horn relay as the factory did. A one-wire regulator does indeed use a regulator.

ssoooo much easier that way. :thumbsup:

Purists will argue but I hated dealing with the regulator.
You still have a regulator in your one-wire alternator. It just regulates the voltage based on what it senses right at the alternator, rather than out where the load is.
 

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Of course it still has a regulator. It's built in. That said it's a lot more consistent and dependable.
 

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Ok I'm kinda slow so bare with me. What I call a regulator is not a regulator but a horn relay or main power distribution point. The 1wire alternator itself regulates the voltage based on the voltage at the alternator. Ok.....so if I used a 100 amp alternator I would keep my same setup and run a bigger wire from alternator to horn relay. Is this correct?
 

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Ok I'm kinda slow so bare with me. What I call a regulator is not a regulator but a horn relay or main power distribution point. The 1wire alternator itself regulates the voltage based on the voltage at the alternator. Ok.....so if I used a 100 amp alternator I would keep my same setup and run a bigger wire from alternator to horn relay. Is this correct?
Yes.

If you're talking about the box on the radiator support next to the washer resevoir that's the regulator. You can wire it in with a 1-wire alternator but it's not needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok I went out and looked at it again, sorry for the confusion there is a junction block for the amps in the trunk it's below the battery next to the radiator. Ok the junction block IS below the washer reservoir. What gauge wire should I run from alternator to junction block? Thank you for the responses, sorry for my ignorance.
 

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You can change the position of the terminals on the back of the alternator relative to the mounted position by "clocking" it. The atttached youtube video shows the two halves of the alternator being taken apart but I did it once like 20 years ago simply by removing the 4 bolts and twisting the two halves to the desired location. Just an FYI if you're interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pyIhzUyIXW0
 
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