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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Folks,

I'm getting ready to tear down my SB to fix some leaks (intake, heads and oil pan).
The engine was completely rebuilt about 5 years ago and hasn't seen a ton of miles. It just leaks.

The furthest I'll get into the tear down is to pull the heads. I'll be adding a gear drive as well. I don't plan on removing the valves or tearing into the bottom half at all. I'd like to strip and repaint the block and heads while I'm at it as a lot of the paint is peeling.

I'm wondering what you recommend for cleaning the parts, heads, rockers, valves, ...
Since it's a low mileage engine, I am hoping the parts are in good shape and I'll be able to reuse everything.

Thanks for any input folks!

Cheers,
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey Bruce,

Wouldn't that damage the valves / pistons?

Also, if I use carb cleaner on the head, with valves, ... installed, will I have to shoot some oil in there before I fire it up?

Cheers,
Rob
 

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i like to use simple green to clean up my engine. its real easy on aluminum and painted parts, but cleans oil & grease like mad. if its not torn down yet (drivable) id take the simple green down to a self serve carwash, spray on the simple green, and pressure wash it off. if you have a pressure washer, youre all set. just watch your electrical parts. it makes it much nicer to work on if its cleaned to start out with, IMO.
 

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rob,
i can remember using it to clean up an engine, mainly the heads. now you don't want to go crazy and soak it enough that it runs into the oil pan. just like carb cleaner, i wouldn't spray it directly on any seals, unless you plan on replacing them. but i think i cleans better then carb cleaner.
but everyone has there own way. all i can say is try it. i think you'll be happy with the results.
bruce
 

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Do you already have it apart? I say clean everything before diassembly!!!! It is alot nicer to work on something clean. Plus, once it's apart, I don't see how you are going to keep all kinds of crud from getting into the cylinder bores etc. Just my two cents, but no way I would attempt to degrease and wire brush an open engine. I also like the Simple Green Cleaner as it's mild on parts and great on grease. It may take a couple applications and some scrubbing on the really grubby areas, but it will get the job done and it leaves a great, grease free surface for your paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Denver,

No. It's not apart yet. It wasn't really "that dirty" so I used a couple cans of "Gunk" and a scrub brush to get most of it off. It came out pretty good.

I was planning on taping off the open cyl's and using a wire wheel on a drill to strip the paint. Same with the heads (With valves & springs installed). Then some degreser before painting.

What do ya' think?


Cheers,
Rob
 

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fro future reference if u have parts with no seals/wires/aluminum in sight try ez off oven cleaner and let it soak then re coat and repeat 2-3 times car crafts quote (its like hot tank in a can) its far from perfect but saves allot of elbow grease with a wirebrush
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok guys,

I degreased and scrubbed the engine down during the week and today I tore into her.

I’m wondering if you can take a look at some pics (links below) and tell me what you think about the condition of the valves / pistons. As I mentioned at the top of the thread, the engine was completely rebuilt about 5 years ago and hasn't seen a ton of miles. It just leaks.

In addition to comments on condition, I’m wondering if you would still recommend that I use carb cleaner on the valves / heads.

As mentioned before, I’m not going to get any further into the tear down but would like to strip the paint. Any thoughts on how I’d do that?

Thanks very much for any feedback!

Cheers,
Rob
http://www.rmfsys.com/rmfracing/images/camaro/tear_down/engine_tear_down/rockers.jpg http://www.rmfsys.com/rmfracing/images/camaro/tear_down/engine_tear_down/head.jpg http://www.rmfsys.com/rmfracing/images/camaro/tear_down/engine_tear_down/pistons.jpg http://www.rmfsys.com/rmfracing/images/camaro/tear_down/engine_tear_down/pistons_2.jpg http://www.rmfsys.com/rmfracing/images/camaro/tear_down/engine_tear_down/valves.jpg http://www.rmfsys.com/rmfracing/images/camaro/tear_down/engine_tear_down/crank.jpg



[This message has been edited by RFrenette (edited 03-10-2002).]
 

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Rob,

I would use either a hand-held wire brush or a wire wheel/drill to strip the paint off the block and heads. Then use some brake clean (it leaves no residue) as a degreaser before painting. After painting, I would oil/coat everything I could get my hands on as I was put the engine back together. The condition of the valves/pistons (carbon deposits) look normal to me. If you want to remove some of those carbon deposits before you put everything back together, you could wire brush the valves and the top of the pistons. Just bring each piston to top dead center to clean them.

Are you going to replace the timing cover gasket and seal? They are prone to leaking oil too. Also, check for a groove around the balancer hub. The timing cover seal is known to wear a groove around the balancer hub. Which is repairable.

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Rick
68/RS
Restoration in Progress...
 

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Check to make sure your pcv system is a.o.k.

Too much pressure in the crankcase, and you'll have oil from everywhere.

Brake cleaner works great for paint prep on engine parts

open a window
Good luck
John
 

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If you can't replace the lifters back exactly where they were, I'd replace the cam and lifters. You can't swap lifters on the lobes, once broken in to the cam.
I see one rocker stud was replaced with screw in type. If your valve springs are stiffer than stock, either have the studs pinned, or better yet convert to screw in studs.
The stockers are known to pull out of the heads with stiff springs or high rpm's. On early heads like yours, you will get water in the oil when that happens.
David

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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page
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67 RS 327 Origonal owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks again for the feedback guys!

David,
Which "rocker stud was replaced with screw in type?" I had the thing in my hands and I didn't notice! You can tell from those pics???

Rick,
Yes, I will be replacing the timing cover gasket / seal as I will be installing a Gear Drive. (I just hadn't pulled it off before I took the pics. - Good catch. You guys don't miss a beat!)

A question on using the wire wheel / drill - Is it safe to use this to clean the valves and pistons as well? It won't damage / scratch them?

Cheers,
Rob


[This message has been edited by RFrenette (edited 03-11-2002).]
 

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Good eye by davidpozzi, pass head #8 cyl, intake valve. Pin the rest or install screw-ins as others suggested, btter route.

I hope you don't use that much RTV upon assembly. Lighten up on bead diameter, only 1/8 inch is required, except for intake ends, usually 1/4 inch diameter there.


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Everett 68/350/PG/11.90/115mph
 
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