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Discussion Starter #1
Today I drove the 396 engine, auto transmission '67 Camaro. Had a dual exhaust installed then the front end aligned. After I returned to the garage and shut it down I heard a periodic click under the hood.

After the car cooled some I checked and found the clicks continued. I used the stopwatch feature of the iPhone to clock it at 30 second intervals. The best I could tell it was coming from the voltage regulator or horn relay area, or the alternator. I removed the cover of the voltage regulator and saw no moving parts when the click occurred. I disconnected the battery and the noise ceased. Looking back I wish I had just unplugged the alternator to isolate it there.

Is there some sort of solenoid in the alternator that might be clicking?
 

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No solenoid anywhere in the alternator. Horn relay and regulator are the only things I can think of that would be clicking.
 

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As Jon suggests, they are the only items, VR & HR.
Black wire to HR is from horn button. Unplug black wire at HR and clicking stop?
Is HR hot to the touch? Probably not with every 30 seconds.
Might place an ammeter between post and cable to view current draw, then this would give an idea of circuit energized.
Any cricket(s)?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Through a series of disconnection and chase the noise I've discovered it is coming from this group of devices located under the driver's side fender. What is their purpose? Do they control the hidden headlights? How might I determine which one is at fault?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Ok, it is this one that is clicking. Is the click an indication of a bad unit or something wrong elsewhere?
 

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Well.... it is "Made in China"! It shouldn't be clicking but that doesn't mean that it is faulty. It might have a bad connection/ground or something. If it is cheap enough, I would get a new one. But don't through the old one away just yet, until you've had time to test out the new one! I would definitely be using a volt meter to see what is going on with all of the wires.
 

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Yes, headlight door relays. Apparently, the vacuum system has been changed out for electric, aka, '67 system.
Check limit switches for being open when doors closed/open.
It may be a switch not adjusted correctly, going open at the end of the stroke, thus still applying power to relay to energize and motor trying to work and overload circuit is opening up due to power drawn still be drawn.
Any time a motor is commanded to work, max current is drawn, when stuck. relay closes, motor tries to continue in direction selected, max current drawn, overload circuit kicks in ad opens power line.
then it cools, closes , repeat cycle.
 

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I believe you are pointing to R1 of the headlight door circuit. The coil in the relay should not be getting any power if the headlight switch is off. So it could be a bad light switch so you might try cycling the switch a few times and see if the problem goes away. Another thing you can try is swapping that relay for one of the other two as they are all the same. Then see if the problem follows the relay or not.
 

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It’s a 67 so it is electric. I forget if the relays use the mounting bracket for the ground. If so you will have to jump the bracket to ground to operate the light doors with the bracket unbolted. You might want to round up a schematic and bone up on the function a bit. I don’t remember if the system runs if a door drifts off a switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes, headlight door relays. Apparently, the vacuum system has been changed out for electric, aka, '67 system.
Check limit switches for being open when doors closed/open.
It may be a switch not adjusted correctly, going open at the end of the stroke, thus still applying power to relay to energize and motor trying to work and overload circuit is opening up due to power drawn still be drawn.
Any time a motor is commanded to work, max current is drawn, when stuck. relay closes, motor tries to continue in direction selected, max current drawn, overload circuit kicks in ad opens power line.
then it cools, closes , repeat cycle.
The doors were closed and then were open and the clicking continued in both conditions. I'll check the limit switches at both directions.

I believe you are pointing to R1 of the headlight door circuit. The coil in the relay should not be getting any power if the headlight switch is off. So it could be a bad light switch so you might try cycling the switch a few times and see if the problem goes away. Another thing you can try is swapping that relay for one of the other two as they are all the same. Then see if the problem follows the relay or not.
I cycled the light switch a few times to no avail. But with the lights turned off this thing is receiving 12V,

It’s a 67 so it is electric. I forget if the relays use the mounting bracket for the ground. If so you will have to jump the bracket to ground to operate the light doors with the bracket unbolted. You might want to round up a schematic and bone up on the function a bit. I don’t remember if the system runs if a door drifts off a switch.
The clicking continued after I removed the bracket from the fender so I don't think they are ground dependent. I put the multimeter on the incoming leads for this unit and it held steady at 12.4V with no spikes or drops. I like your idea of switching them to see if the noise remains with this unit.
Our local CARQUEST will have a new one for me early next week. At a cost of $10 I figured it wouldn't hurt to try.

Thank you all for your help.
 

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Keep us posted on your findings!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This morning I swapped the "defective" unit with another and reconnected both. The clicking has stopped. Presently the RS doors are open and with the fuel line disconnected at the carb I cannot yet start the car. I'm wondering if the switch is being made when the doors are closed.

I'll report back later after again driving the car.
 

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Did you open the headlight doors by turning on the headlight switch but now they won't close when you deactivate the switch? If so then the original relay you pointed too is bad. It either has a faulty relay coil or the internal contacts are sticking in the ON position, either condition will prevent the doors from closing after you swapped R1 with either R2 or R3.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I noted that the headlight doors remain open after I turn off the lights. I figured since the ignition not on maybe that is normal. Now I am rebuilding the power steering box and other things so the car won't be running for a few more days.
 

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Yes, you needed it, the other relays were jealous, now they are scared, so they shut-up.
 

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With the relays swapped do headlight doors open and close properly?
 
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