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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm tiring of the "vibrating clutch" when releasing the pedal. I am ordering the parts I need, clutch, P Plate, Throw out bearing, bushing.

What could possible also sneak up on me and need replacing while I am ordering parts? I am getting a new boot, bolts etc as I dont want to have the car down while I wait for a 2.00 part to be ordered.

Also, while we are at it, what clutch is recommended for a stock 350/295 4 speed? No racing, just cruising the blvd?

Thanks for your help!

Craig
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Resurfacing this one, unless of course the mach shop tells me it needs replacing. I only want to do this once!

Are you having the flywheel resurfaced or replacing it? Nothing worse than putting. Brand new clutch on n old flywheel.
 

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Why is it vibrating? Might as well replace the transmission mount while it is out.
 

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I like the Zoom Muscle Car kt. The kit comes with the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, bushing, and the alignment tool about $200.00 clams.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not really sure. The mount is intact. Once it starrts engaging, it has a vibrations that goes right away. I had a 69 with this same issue and a clutch/P Plate took care of it. I'm hoping the same here.


I saw the Zoom MC kit...Anyone here using that set up? Like I said, this is a stock cruiser, not a street racer... no headers etc...! (picture in ROTM Jan 13)


Why is it vibrating? Might as well replace the transmission mount while it is out.
 

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Check for a rear main seal leak. Oil andclutches do not mix well.
 

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I have the Zoom Muscle Car clutch in my 1969 Camaro with 350 375hp street, show only and works great, and easy install, as I already had a new motor and the trans out of the car. Thanks, Jerod
 

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I've never had a problem with genuine GM parts, but then, I don't know if they are still available from GM or not.
Last time I bought a GM clutch was mid-'80's, so what do I know?

Buy new, maybe have the balance checked before install.
Check fork and pivot ball condition, replace if questionable.
Check linkage ends and the ball studs for wear and replace as needed.
Lube all ends, fork and ball with molybendum grease - yes, the one grease that stains your clothes and hands for life.
 

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Resurface the current or replace (if needed) the flywheel, and then have the flywheel (new or existing) and clutch assembly balanced as a complete unit before u bolt it back in.
 

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I also cut 4 bolts ( I don't recall the length ) to help in the ease of pulling and reinstalling the trans. I rounded the ends of the bolts off, and pulled the passenger side header. The bolts are long enough so the the input shat clears the fork/throw our bearing if I recall right.

 

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Man I hate looking at that picture.

It just reminds me that I have to swap out the Lakewood fork for the right one.

Stupid Lakewood fork.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Excellent replies, just the advice I was looking for. The bolt idea is perfect! I will definately do this! Thanks guys!
 

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I have the Zoom in my Z, love it works great.
 
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