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For those of you who have used the Comp Cams Polymer Distributor Gear on true BILLET cams:

1. Please share what your experience has been with it…..good, bad or otherwise.

2. If you have had a problem with it, what specifically, happened to it?

3. Based on your experience with it, if you had it to do over again, would you still use it, or would you go with the bronze gear?
 

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I have no experience personally, just what I've been told by a couple engine shops I deal with. Seems there are some issues with them, usually with a hv pump and the load they're under. Seems to be pretty much evenly split whether they last or not.

I personally use the GM melonized gear and always spec a cast iron gear, even on a billet roller cam.

Jody
 

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I'll let you know later in the spring. I have one on a true BILLET cam with about 3,00 miles on it. The motor runs fine, but I haven't pulled the dist to look at the gear.

I would have done what Jody said, but I'm running a reduced base circle and per Comp that core is not available with the pressed on iron gear.

FWIW, the GMPP ZZ4 and ZZ430 (and most likely others) use a genuine BILLET cam and the melonized dist gear.
 

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I have run the Comp Polymer gear for 2 years now. True billet cam. Comp cams custom roller.
No issues after 2 years. Looks new, and I check it from time to time.
Combination of street and strip.
Std volume oil pump BTW running 15-50 Mobil 1.
Rat motor.

Ron
 

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I have one in my motor, and prob been about 800 miles...still looks new!....and thats with a solid roller cam. They are expensive, but I was going thru the bronze gears quite often, and at about $35-$40 a pop for bronze, (at least for good gears,) this is a bargain in my book! It has my vote!
 

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I got involved in a Shaffiroff 540 crate motor, the big sportmans job. It had a billet roller but the guys went with a bronze gear, of which is sacrificial. Has to be changed out every so many runs or keep checking on it. Its a pain.

Good to hear your polygear is holding up. I will pass it on.
 

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What's Cheaper Buying a Polymer Distributor Shaft Gear or paying that extra $30 to have a Forged Billet Fitted with a Cast Ring Gear - Not saying either is the answer - I personally would go for the Press On Cast Ring Gear on a Billet but if you have no alternative why not go for the Polymer Dizzy Gear at the Higher Cost.

If your ride is nothing but a Drag, who cares as a Bronze Gear will long out live the Mill.
 

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What's Cheaper Buying a Polymer Distributor Shaft Gear or paying that extra $30 to have a Forged Billet Fitted with a Cast Ring Gear - Not saying either is the answer - I personally would go for the Press On Cast Ring Gear on a Billet but if you have no alternative why not go for the Polymer Dizzy Gear at the Higher Cost.

If your ride is nothing but a Drag, who cares as a Bronze Gear will long out live the Mill.
The cam is all billet including gear -- no press fit on this one -- it's a Stahl cam from the 80s. And it's already in the motor and I've not taken it out since acquiring it. It's either bronze or the poly composite. I want a little more life since this will see street in addition to road course/autoX/etc. Thinking I will try the poly from Comp and see what happens.

I don't beat on the motor. Not to say I've never matted the throttle, but it's a street only car and I'm getting old.
Yeah I hit mine hard and rev to near 7000 nearly every time I drive it -- street or track. :beers:
 

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Just spoke to the guy who ground my cam regarding this today, he is a custom cam grinder.
He said on my cam I could go with a bronze gear but mentioned the poly ones. He said he has customers that have run them now for a couple years and a lot in road race cars and had only one failure in all of them. He said it split, but after the gear was replaced they never had another issue. Spoke pretty highly of them, and he grinds lots of cams.
I believe I'll be trying one myself.
 

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Just spoke to the guy who ground my cam regarding this today, he is a custom cam grinder.
He said on my cam I could go with a bronze gear but mentioned the poly ones. He said he has customers that have run them now for a couple years and a lot in road race cars and had only one failure in all of them. He said it split, but after the gear was replaced they never had another issue. Spoke pretty highly of them, and he grinds lots of cams.
I believe I'll be trying one myself.
Well that is positive news for it.

For the record, I am running the Melling 10555 HV pump (I think I said Canton earlier - my bad), a Wix R series filter, and we have now blocked off the oil bypass to make all carnage go thru the filter only.

Thanks for the post.
 

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What's Cheaper Buying a Polymer Distributor Shaft Gear or paying that extra $30 to have a Forged Billet Fitted with a Cast Ring Gear - Not saying either is the answer - I personally would go for the Press On Cast Ring Gear on a Billet but if you have no alternative why not go for the Polymer Dizzy Gear at the Higher Cost.

If your ride is nothing but a Drag, who cares as a Bronze Gear will long out live the Mill.
Press on Everwear gear on my billet roller from UDHarold is what I run with my sbc and the stock melonized GM gear.
 

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Mine was installed in 2005, still going strong.

Ron
 

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I tried using one late last year on my 800HP 540, and sheared all the teeth off the first time out to the track. This was using a Bullet billet solid roller by Chris Straub.

The gear survived just fine during two weeks of tunning on the dyno. The difference I think at the track is it was 50F outside, and I still had 20w50 in the car running a HV pump. I think it was too much for the gear to turn. I truelly beat the hell out of the car with 4000 and 5000rpm trans break launches.

Search for this topic at Team Chevelle. The gear has fallen out of favor over there vs. a good bronze gear.

The polly gear was designed by NASCAR to try and eliminate spark chatter by having a tighter tollerance and mesh. Never really ment to turn an oil pump in a street car (IMO).

As you can see some people have run it with success, but many others like me have not. When they fail, you are absolutely dead in the water with fine bits of plastic in your oil pan.
 

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Mine's only had dyno time on it - i'll report back in a couple years.
 

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I tried using one late last year on my 800HP 540, and sheared all the teeth off the first time out to the track. This was using a Bullet billet solid roller by Chris Straub.

The gear survived just fine during two weeks of tunning on the dyno. The difference I think at the track is it was 50F outside, and I still had 20w50 in the car running a HV pump. I think it was too much for the gear to turn. I truelly beat the hell out of the car with 4000 and 5000rpm trans break launches.

Search for this topic at Team Chevelle. The gear has fallen out of favor over there vs. a good bronze gear.

The polly gear was designed by NASCAR to try and eliminate spark chatter by having a tighter tollerance and mesh. Never really ment to turn an oil pump in a street car (IMO).

As you can see some people have run it with success, but many others like me have not. When they fail, you are absolutely dead in the water with fine bits of plastic in your oil pan.
Thanks for your feedback.
 
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