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‘67 RS
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Discussion Starter #1
After reading some of the old posts here about rebuilding master cylinders, I've decided that for simplicity and peace of mind I should probably just put a new one in and keep the original and rebuild it later if it's salvageable. Now I need to know which one to get that is compatible. Will this work for a 1967 RS with power drum brakes? [Wagner MC64986 New Master Cylinder]

I'm open to any other recommendations or suggestions.
 

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Convert to disc's.
 

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Disc and drum master cyls are different. I also recommend converting to Discs.
The improvement is well worth the cost, after seeing snow today I would suggest you have all winter to do the upgrade.....
 

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‘67 RS
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Discussion Starter #5
Disc and drum master cyls are different. I also recommend converting to Discs.
The improvement is well worth the cost, after seeing snow today I would suggest you have all winter to do the upgrade.....
OK, thanks to both of you for the advice. Since the MCs are different then it would make sense to do the disc conversion at the same time I swap out the master cylinder. I'll read up on what's involved to do it. I know there's lots of posts here on this topic. I definitely have the winter to tackle it. Any recommendations for where to get the parts and what to change out? Budget is kind of tight and this isn't a high powered car so I don't need to go high end performance.
 

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You can use Chevelle spindles and just bolt on your steering brackets . Chevelle parts are all over the place. This will give you a single piston caliper like a 69. Have done it many times. You can get a factory repo booster, master cylinder, and proportioning valve kit off ebay cheep. You could also go the kit way. Once you go disk you will never go back to drums.
 

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I understand your tackle one thing at a time situation. Both drum and disc Master Cylinders are available for all first gens at all the on-line sources. You can get reproduction of original or new production MC's at reasonable costs. I purchased the reproduction for disc/drum for 1969's last spring and am happy with it, price was okay considering it is a reproduction of the original. I too kept the original and plan to rebuild it someday when my time, skill set and tools hit the same level needed for such a project. :)
 

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When doing a conversion on a 67 and using used and OTC parts, Chevelle/Monte calipers must be used. 69 caliper banjo bolts will contact 67 frame bumpstops. To minimize cost, buy Chevelle spindles like Keith said and just get an MC and calipers at your local parts house. No need to use a repro house for them. Calipers from my suppliers cost me 20 bucks each. I see repro houses are charging as much as $80. An MC can be locally purchased rebuilt or brand new. However, a parts store new MC is not original looking.
 

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‘67 RS
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Discussion Starter #9
So Brian understands what my dilemma is: a quick $40 MC swap with serviceable brakes or figuring out all the necessary parts and spending the time and money for the conversion. I totally get what Keith and Scott are saying about rounding up the Chevelle spindles and getting inexpensive parts vs. an expensive kit but that will take this novice more time to figure all of that out too. Then there's the issue of this snowballing in time and money because I will still need a new MC and I assume a new booster. From what I've read, I will need to upgrade to 15" wheels to assure everything fits or buy 14" rally wheels and match it to a stock type disc setup. Does it make sense if I just swap the MC now and spend the winter figuring out everything I need to do for the conversion? I'm doing everything myself for the satisfaction I get and because its a hobby. I work pretty slow but I try to do it right. It took me a few months of weekends to rebuild the suspension but it came out great. I really appreciate all the great advice here and everybody's responses have really made me think it through.
 

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‘67 RS
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Discussion Starter #11
I think the boosters fine if I stay with drums for now. I was referring to the need to change the booster if I go with discs. Is that the case or is the stock booster for power drum brakes sufficient for discs as well? Seems as if the disc conversion kits come with booster and master cylinder together.
 

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Depends on which kit / vendor you go with. What size diameter booster is on the vehicle?
 

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I say just throw a parts store master cylinder on it and look around for what option works best for you. You have been given a few options, time , money, and skill will answer your dilemma. Good luck. Like Scot said calipers are dirt cheep. My cost on calipers is only $8.95 per side for rebuilt GM parts.
 

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‘67 RS
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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Keith. It's great to know it can be done without too much cost. I'm convinced I'm going to do the disc conversion as soon as I can.
 

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Mine came with disk, but have changed a few in the past. The best upgrade hands down , except a real friggin engine. I have also done big brake kits on the rear pretty cheep with police car rear drums and backing plates.
 

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I have an commercial account through a few auto parts stores. I can get them from Advance Auto for $12.95 if that is better. Have not had a come back yet. They used that caliper on millions of cars. Third gen calipers are under $10.00 as well. All GM reman units. Yes it does sound crazy, but true.
 

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First up -- yes, MC64986 should be a 1" bore master with bolt-on cover and is the "stock" replacement for drum/drum as far as I can tell. It has a "deep" pushrod hole, which would work for manual brakes OR the 1st gen power booster.

Agree with others that front discs are a good idea, but understand that timing/costs come into play here too.

Sooo, let's look ahead a bit:

Power booster is the same for disc and drum. If your current one works fine, you can re-use it for discs.

Master cylinder differences would potentially be:
-- bore size (disc is 1+1/8", drum is 1")
-- residual pressure valves in MC outlet (SOME drum master cyls have the valves, disc do not -- but many reman drum MCs don't have the RPVs anyway)
-- front/rear fluid volume

If it were me, I'd get a disc master cyl now and run it with the drums (this assumes that you will convert to discs in the future -- otherwise, just get the drum master). The larger bore will require a little more pedal effort than normal (about 25% more) but the disc MC should work fine for you near-term.
 

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‘67 RS
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Discussion Starter #19
If it were me, I'd get a disc master cyl now and run it with the drums (this assumes that you will convert to discs in the future -- otherwise, just get the drum master). The larger bore will require a little more pedal effort than normal (about 25% more) but the disc MC should work fine for you near-term.
Great idea. Thanks for the great info. It's good to know I can upgrade just the MC now and it won't cost anymore when I can do the disc upgrade.
 

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I have an commercial account through a few auto parts stores. I can get them from Advance Auto for $12.95 if that is better. Have not had a come back yet. They used that caliper on millions of cars. Third gen calipers are under $10.00 as well. All GM reman units. Yes it does sound crazy, but true.
I'll have to see why one of my stores is charging what they are. Advance on line wants 26.99 for an unloaded caliper. I'm a registered business too. Which is not a big deal. Anyone can register a business, get a tax number and set up an account.

It's not a fair comparison to provide shop parts prices on forums anyway. The majority of builders are hobbiests and don't get discounts.
 
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