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Discussion Starter #1
I’d like to hear opinions on transforming my 67 Camaro into a road hugging smooth cruising machine. Mostly street but occasional strip/auto cross. I would like to consider all the different systems below a actual full chassis swap. The art Morris and roadster shop stuff is awesome but i just don’t want to spend that much looking to keep it under $10k for everything. Thx for the suggestions.
 

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I'm kind of attempting this with my '67. Tall spindles, SPC UCAs and LCAs, coil springs, Koni shocks, Hotchkis sway bar in front, with C5 brakes; Flex Form composite leafs, Flex Form slapper bars, Koni shocks, Fays watts link in back with 2000's vintage Camaro rear brakes - easily under $10k. Not on the road, but I expect it will be sweet.

I had the composite leaf springs in a prior '68 and they were very sweet - good solid spring rate with less jarring than steel would give.

The '67 project is a reaction to my over-the-top '68.
 

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Are you going to or are you already mini tubbed ?

Brake upgrade ?

$10k could go real quick if you’re yanking out the leaf springs and going to 4 link or torque arm or changing a subframe.
Then wheels/tires....
DSE
Speedtech
TCI
BMR
Ride Tech
All have parts you may want to checkout to see how they fit in your budget.
 

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Boy you guts are out of my $$$ league. Looks like you want a Corvette. . . . .been there so I bought a Corvette! Detroit Speed in Mooresville, NC would be the one to call as they build high end fantastic cars for what you are asking for.
 

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Very broad question but I'd probably consider someones complete system just to simplify the process. That 10k will evaporate fast
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Ok well I'd like to here from those who have used the ridetech coilover and bolt on 4 Link. Seems like a good option that won't break the bank.
 

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I think you're asking for the impossible with a stock subframe 1st gen. A car setup for
the strip is gonna be terrible at autocross and vise versa. Neither setup is going to be
awesome for cruising. The initial design just isn't there. 4 link would be good for a straight
line only car. Ridetech's Streetgrip seems to be the best bang for the buck. JMHO
https://www.ridetech.com/product/ridetech-1967-1969-camaro-streetgrip-system/
 

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I did the poly bushings, cut front springs, derched rear springs, slap bars, front and rear sway, IROC steering box, and KYB Gas Adjust when I first got the car. Hugs the corners and rides with the comfort of Fred Flinstone's car with bump-steer.

I'm with Tdog as I was very close to pulling the trigger on the Ridetech full coilover coversion about a week or so ago until the Cam.net pros here gave me more to think about. I was told the full conversion is overkill unless you're on the track regularly. Mixed reviews on ride quality. Anybody have it or had it? Ridetech says Streetgrip is not as good as full conversion, but way better than stock. Not surprising when a business tells you that their more expensive item is the best thing for you. So now I'm looking at full conversion on the front end with Tru-Turn and composite leaf with Ridetech shocks on rear. I'm looking for the happy middle ground. Thoughts?
 

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Ok this is the way it works.

Are you building a track car you can drive on the street or a street car you can take to the track?

Can't have the best of both so you'll need to compromise. Track cars are very stiff suspension by design. You feel every bump in the road surface. Not very comfortable to cruise on the streets or highways.

Street cars are built for a smoother ride and therefor not as good on a track.

Now. Most people end up wanting to be somewhere in the middle. It all depends on where your middle is. Once decided then you can design and build to meet that goal.
 
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I did the poly bushings, cut front springs, derched rear springs, slap bars, front and rear sway, IROC steering box, and KYB Gas Adjust when I first got the car. Hugs the corners and rides with the comfort of Fred Flinstone's car with bump-steer.

I'm with Tdog as I was very close to pulling the trigger on the Ridetech full coilover coversion about a week or so ago until the Cam.net pros here gave me more to think about. I was told the full conversion is overkill unless you're on the track regularly. Mixed reviews on ride quality. Anybody have it or had it? Ridetech says Streetgrip is not as good as full conversion, but way better than stock. Not surprising when a business tells you that their more expensive item is the best thing for you. So now I'm looking at full conversion on the front end with Tru-Turn and composite leaf with Ridetech shocks on rear. I'm looking for the happy middle ground. Thoughts?
lot's of us on this forum have said it many times, and I did just about what you have now.
take those KYBs OFF! ... they are terible.
I promise you will like it much better by just throwing those things away.
 

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N
ow. Most people end up wanting to be somewhere in the middle. It all depends on where your middle is. Once decided then you can design and build to meet that goal.
In a perfect world there would be a switch. Street/Strip/Autocross. In a more perfect world there would be an infinitely adjustable rheostat.
 

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lot's of us on this forum have said it many times, and I did just about what you have now.
take those KYBs OFF! ... they are terible.
I promise you will like it much better by just throwing those things away.
I agree, those KYB's really suck!

The first thing I did was an IROC steering box, 1/2" taller upper ball joints and 1/2" taller outer tie rod ends, and set it up with better alignment specs. This alone made a huge difference.

Then I scrapped the KYB's and got Koni shocks and ran like this for a couple of seasons while I figured out how far I should go.

Last week, I put in tubular control arms and a coil over conversion with double adjustable shocks and a 1-1/8" swaybar.
With only a "string alignment" I drove it around the side streets to test it out a bit. It has a nice tight road feel and it smooths out the bumps way better than I expected. (and I still have to get it into the alignment shop)

What I'm saying is, don't jump into an extensive upgrade. There's a lot you can do for cheap to take care of the camber, caster and body roll. Do this first and budget in increments, you will end up with what you really need without breaking the bank.
 

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"Are you building a track car you can drive on the street or a street car you can take to the track?"

This is the question most of us should be asked. I am building a street car I can take to the track maybe 2-3 times a year. I may take it to the strip to see what my numbers actually are and maybe participate in the occasional autocross for fun. I raced formula and bmw with SCCA and NASA, that's not what this car will be about. I got the message loud and clear about the KYBs. They are coming off. But didn't know if that would be enough.

One day someone will create an old muscle conversion push button suspension like modern sports cars.
 

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transforming my 67 Camaro into a road hugging smooth cruising machine. Mostly street but occasional strip/auto cross.
the ridetech coilover conversion will help you fit the 4 category's you wanted, smooth cruising, street, strip, autocross, and with the budget you have you can upgrade the steering and brakes, with money left over... if you want real advice give me a call at the shop we can get your build going the right direction, I have race and driven over 30k miles on my camaro and it helped me start my business
 

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they have it... I sell it,,, but do you want to pay for it? the shocks are 7000K, push a button, or dial into the shock blue tooth
My C7 Corvette ZO6 has it. Only costs $100k
 

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My C7 Corvette ZO6 has it. Only costs $100k

ha ha ha ha yes,,, only 100K ... thats the key,,, most want a push button set up but they only want to pay $189 each coilover and the complain when it doesn't ride like wifeys 60K Infinity

I helped develop and amazing dynamic shock system with viking, and in 4 years I have only sold two (cant make a living like that), fully electronic with ride sensors pitch,yaw, acceleration and decel sensors, and a steering input sensor and it can be tuned from your phone or tablet via bluetooth, or plug in with a lap top I will link a video here if you want to see it.....

https://www.facebook.com/SuspensionGeek/videos/1979412768969930/
 

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ha ha ha ha yes,,, only 100K ... thats the key,,, most want a push button set up but they only want to pay $189 each coilover and the complain when it doesn't ride like wifeys 60K Infinity

I helped develop and amazing dynamic shock system with viking, and in 4 years I have only sold two (cant make a living like that), fully electronic with ride sensors pitch,yaw, acceleration and decel sensors, and a steering input sensor and it can be tuned from your phone or tablet via bluetooth, or plug in with a lap top I will link a video here if you want to see it.....

https://www.facebook.com/SuspensionGeek/videos/1979412768969930/
That preety sic. but before I get that setup, I need to find the $15K+ for a new sub frame, front brake,other bits...:eek:
 
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