Team Camaro Tech banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

15,370 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, this is kinda long as usual.

I'm ready to bolt the subframe back under the car and am finalizing the drum to disc conversion PARTS so I can put the front suspension together. I have all suspension parts so it's the disc brake conversion that I'm worried about.

I know this has been beat to death and answered a hundred different ways to a thousand people but my head is swimming just going through it all to make sure I've gotten the right brake parts to finish it. I'm doing it the factory way, not CBB or a conversion kit.

Here is what I have:
-Drum spindles modded for disc
-Complete front to rear power disc lines from Right Stuff including brackets\hoses
-Single piston caliper brackets
-Combination valve from early Chevelle. It's ugly but it'll work

Parts yet to be picked up from parts store:
These can all be purchased over-the-counter-
-Booster\disc Master combination
-One-piece rotors eliminating old drum hubs
-Single-piston calipers\Pins

The Right Stuff line kit is for a power disc car. I'm praying that the master cyl. to combi. valve lines are correct. I sure that they're not and they're for a Camaro that has the metering valve and warning switch under the master instead of a more modern combi. valve and no metering setup. Anyone know if I wasted the money on this line kit?

I received the two-piece front to rear line instead of the one piece which I believe is what I need. I'm hoping to put the combi. valve under the master and will probably need to piece together or make my own master to valve lines. CRAP! I was also hoping to plumb my own lines in order to hide them and keep that area clean looking, but I decided there's no need in delaying this thing anymore than I already have. ;)

Will I still need to replace, or is it advisable to upgrade the wheel studs with longer, larger diameter studs with the one-piece rotors? I'm gonna be putting 15" wheels on it.

Am I missing anything that I didn't already cover? I still need to get a bench bleeding system for the master but that's nothing. I'll use the kids medicine syringe. ;)

Thanks for any pointers. As soon as the paint and undercoating is dry, I'll actually be putting parts BACK ON the car in August!!

598 Posts
You'll need to get a couple of banjo bolts to connect your new disc style hoses to the calipers. I got mine from NAPA. The 69 disc hose has a metal sleeve pressed onto the hose pretty much in the center. This is for the attaching point for the little 69 tab/arms that stickout backwards from the upper A-arms to support the hoses.
I really didn't want to drill the upper A-arms and attach these brackets when I converted from drums, so I have been running without those brackets for 4 years now with no problems or binding on either the hardtop or the convertible before I tore it apart for the resto.

I went for the original 69 disc spindles instead of machining the drum spindles. As I recall, one of the lower spindle bolts that connects to the steering knuckle was too long, so I had to get an half inch shorter bolt. Since you machined the drum spindles, you might not have that problem, but you will probably need a shorter top spindle bolt that screws into the spindle and is secured with the bend over tab from the disc backing plates.

The 69 replacement rotors that I've been buying have a thicker neck on the studs, but have the same 7/16" thread. But, the lugs that were in your old from drum hubs can be used as spares for your rear 10 bolt axle lugs. Also, you can use your old tapered lug nuts with rally wheels or standard wheels. If you are going with custom wheels, then you might need longer lugs or nut with a different taper.
1 - 3 of 3 Posts