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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All
,

I've been reading information on this site for nearly a year and I have just now needed to ask for help. If anyone out there could help me with some information, I would be very grateful.

I have installed all of the guts for the fully operational Cowl Hood. It was quite a task removing the original accelerator lever from the firewall with a big block in the way (thank goodness for my 14 year old son and his skinny arms). Anyway my question is this. How is the Retainer Clip supposed to be mounted to the Switch. Although the Assembly Manual shows a diagram, I can't seem to be able to make it stay on when the accelerator is fully engaged. Any help out there?
 

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I had a problem with mine, when I installed it. The hole in the switch bracket was just a little too small for the retainer. I forced it in, and then when I stomped on the pedal to test the adjustment, the switch exploded into more pieces than I could find. D&R was good about it and replaced the switch. I just filed the hole a little and everything fit fine.
Maybe you have the same problem (without the explosion!!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, I was finally able to get two hands behind the big block (after I removed the wiper moter and the coil)and I somehow managed to get the clip on the switch. After I put everything back where it belonged, I started it up and the clip and switch are working as designed.

Now the next obstacle, when I give it enough throttle to engage the switch, the solenoid (plunger) isn't activating. I read on some previous posts regarding this that there might be a grounding problem, so I'm going to sand the paint off of the inside of the clamp on the frame so that I have a good metal to metal contact. Should this work, or am I missing the boat here?

Thanks for your guys' input. It's really appreciated.
 

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On my cowl system, the switch has both ground and pos in the wiring plug boot. There wont be any improvement by sanding parts of the solenoid bracket. Try your OHM meter to check continuity of the switch before you take it all apart again. Its a pain back down there, thank goodness I have the small block but you do literally climb in from top to reach all the parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Click,

Thanks for the advice. I have put everything back together in hope of trying it one more time (with fingers crossed). No Dice!

I'll try to check the continuity as you suggested. Wish me luck!
 

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Bruce, Try activating the switch by hand, make sure the key is on. Many times when trying to activate the switch with the gas pedal, it seems like it's making contact with the firewall, but isn't completly depressing the switch. If you activate the switch by hand, you should hear a click from the relay. If you hear a click and the induction door does't open, then many times the plastic u-shaped hinges are binding on the door, causing a non-opening. If this is the case, lubricate with some spray silicone and manually operate many times to help free up. Also alot of times the relays are junk even when new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
68,

That sounds like a great idea!
I haven't had the time to check the continuity yet, but doing as you suggested should be releatively easy compared to removing all of the hardware that's in the way.

I did try this before I mounted the switch in the accelerator lever, but I'm not sure if I had a good ground. It didn't work at that time, but it wasn't a concern at the time.

I'm almost to the point of giving up all hope and thinking, at least I have a correct induction system, albeit not yet operational :( . I hope I don't have an overheating problem if the flapper doesn't activate. This weekend will be the first road trial with it installed. I read on some other threads that others have had a problem with overheating after this system was installed.

Thanks again for your guys'help!
 

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I am new hear... and to these cars as well. This is a great resource and I appreciate everyone's help.

I am experiencing the same problem. I have a small block 350, with a new (last season) full cowl kit installed except for the plunger on the accelerator arm. My problem is mounting the plunger in the arm properly. While I will try opening the hole in the bracket more, I did hear there was a change in the retaining clip recently. From what I recall there is a different clip being provided with these kits that was "redesigned" ...and not for the better. Is it possible that the people here with working set ups have the old or original set up? Is there anyone out there that has had good luck with a RECENT install of one of these switches with "new clips"?

With respect to the grounding questions. From what I can see the plunger on the arm is plastic and the switch has two connections on it, so it is closing the circuit when pressed, not connecting to ground. Just check for continuity when you depress the plunger. I too can feel/hear a positive click when it is depressed.

Finally - JohnZ you mentioned the GM switch being superior. I ordered my kit through D&R Classics and not sure which one I have. At this point I would be willing to spend the $$ for a new switch and clip so long as it worked. Where so I get the GM stuff?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ed,

I purchased the switch I am referring to to from Rick's, and it is the GM switch. After many problems with the installation, my system now works as designed. :D

The clip is not for continuity or grounding purposes at all, it simple prevents the switch from moving out of the hole in the throttle arm when the accelerator is depressed. As the clip comes, it won't work, at least mine didn't. I had to modify (make smaller) and still manage to get it on the threads of the switch. :mad: Once it was finally in place, there is a little tab on the clip that you squeeze with pliers, or whatever you can get between the engine and the firewall, and that keep the clip on the switch.

After I initially installed everything, I still couldn't get it to work. One day out cruising, I laid on that big block hard in 2nd gear and I heard the flapper open just as I was shifting to 3rd. After that not again. :confused: A week ago, while I was detailing the engine compartment, I found a cut wire and it was the wire coming from the switch to the fuse panel. I spliced and taped and now the flapper works on a regular basis. :D A fully functional cold air induction system is an awesome sight to behold. I'm excited.

I hope you better luck than I had initially, but it is well worth the wait.
 

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Thanks for the input. Sounds like I need to set some sime time aside, climb under the hood and finally get this figured out. I guess this is part of the hobby!
 

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Mine also had a ground problem, but I tracked it down to the flapper frame. My body guy painted it a little bit too well and so the solenoid would not make a good ground with the flapper frame which also would not make a good ground with the hood. A little sandpaper job in some inconspicuous areas and everything was back in business.

-Marc
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I had heard about the grounding issue in this forum and to prevent it from happening to me, I used a dremel sander on the inside of the clamp on the frame that holds the plunger. Must have worked. There seems to be several problem areas that can be troubleshooted with this application.
 
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