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Partially opened "crate" engine picture in the wild. They are not center bolt valve covers, but are the blue print design Vortec heads. Nothing wrong with the vortec heads.
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive lighting Bumper
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
jury is in...

Engine is a Summit 383 long block. They don't make this particular engine anymore, from Blue Print Engines. This one has cast iron Vortec heads, the ones they make now have aluminum heads.
Specs say 383 405/444
4 bolt main
1 piece rear seal
New cast crank
Chevy heavy beam rods
Hyper pistons
Hydraulic roller cam
cast iron Vortec heads
Aluminum intake
was supposed to come with a dyno sheet, but I didn't get that.
Old link has decent reviews.
Part number MLL-BP3830CT1

Engine is older, but appears to be in decent condition.
Bought the car. Needs a major cleanup. Will try to get pics up this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
could be flat or roller lifter, you are right, I need to call BPE and run the numbers. They do give these cam specs: specs on our cam are .487 intake / .503 exhaust lift with a 234 intake / 244 exhaust duration @ .050 lift and a 112 degree lobe separation angle.

recommend 91 octane
pulls 8-10 in of vacuum
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
it does whine. I am thinking that noise is possibly the input bearing on the transmission. Sound changes when foot off the clutch, and when I push in the clutch it gets quieter.
I'll know more this weekend, I did take a small gamble (which usually bites me in the arse). But car appears solid and just needs some small mechanical TLC. Interior is mostly original, like 99% and in very good condition.
 

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Blue print usually puts a engine serial number plate just over the oil filter housing. If you get those numbers off and call them, they can tell you exactly what is inside your engine. 👍🇺🇸
 

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I wish everyone in this thread would stop saying VORTEX heads. Anyone who types that should not be taken seriously. As you should all know Chevy came out with the VORTEC head in 1996 in most car and trucks. They offer better flow than the older heads but are really nothing special compared to an aftermarket aluminum head. Commonly used for a budget performance upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I wish everyone in this thread would stop saying VORTEX heads. Anyone who types that should not be taken seriously. As you should all know Chevy came out with the VORTEC head in 1996 in most car and trucks. They offer better flow than the older heads but are really nothing special compared to an aftermarket aluminum head. Commonly used for a budget performance upgrade.

Told you I didn't know jack about newer bowtie stuff, :ROFLMAO:

I noticed that too and corrected about midway through the post... You are correct!
 

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it does whine. I am thinking that noise is possibly the input bearing on the transmission. Sound changes when foot off the clutch, and when I push in the clutch it gets quieter.
I'll know more this weekend, I did take a small gamble (which usually bites me in the arse). But car appears solid and just needs some small mechanical TLC. Interior is mostly original, like 99% and in very good condition.
Then it’s definitely not gear drive
 

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Well, those specs are significanly different that what was first posted as a 350hp/350. I agree with SoCal that if it is a BPE then it should be good. Or at least it would have been when new. You're detailed description called out hydraulic rollers so the later post about possible flat tappet lifters would be in conflict with this. But simply Googling BP3830CT1 pulls up the Summit page with it and it says flat tappet. If the seller told you roller, I'd start to get nervous. But, maybe he's just an idiot. That's likely actually


Vortec 350 heads are considered by many to be the best production SBC head Chevy ever sold. They flow well but can't take much more than around .500" lift without modification. This is a pretty tame 383 but it makes good torque and should be a lot of fun in a fist gen. Assuming a previous owner didn't screw something, I be you'll be happy with it. Well, until you decide you want 500hp, or 600 or.... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Well, those specs are significanly different that what was first posted as a 350hp/350. I agree with SoCal that if it is a BPE then it should be good. Or at least it would have been when new. You're detailed description called out hydraulic rollers so the later post about possible flat tappet lifters would be in conflict with this. But simply Googling BP3830CT1 pulls up the Summit page with it and it says flat tappet. If the seller told you roller, I'd start to get nervous. But, maybe he's just an idiot. That's likely actually


Vortec 350 heads are considered by many to be the best production SBC head Chevy ever sold. They flow well but can't take much more than around .500" lift without modification. This is a pretty tame 383 but it makes good torque and should be a lot of fun in a fist gen. Assuming a previous owner didn't screw something, I be you'll be happy with it. Well, until you decide you want 500hp, or 600 or.... ;)

I have that link, but thank you very much for posting it. I was reading through the questions and it appears they originally made this kit with flat tappet, but switched to roller at some point. Going to call BPE today and see if I can get clarification. This engine is over 10 years old, mileage unknown, so a thorough inspection is needed.

I hope to do compression test on it this weekend, look over a couple other things and see if I can determine the overall health of the engine. I have a "scope", hoping to look in the cylinders and maybe fish it down the carb into the intake runners too. Any recommendations or advice doing this?

If I think it is good to go, I may consider doing an EFI swap, that Holley system looks nice, they make a tank, distributor/ignition kit and EFI package that is designed for the 1st gen. They make it look plug and play, but I have read there are some things to be careful with. Just started researching it, but looks like a great upgrade... I'll do searches here, but there is a Holley forum too. If I go that way I'll start a new thread on it here.

Summary, this could be a good base to work with. Honestly, 400+ in this car should be enough for me. That is way more than the factory put in it, and those numbers rival BB output in a lighter package. Just a few years ago 300 hp was a decent number, today my V6 F150 ecoboost has more than that. I am very familiar with what big HP delivers. My brother in law owns a Ford speed shop, I know what a 1,000hp Mustang can do, and I can drive one just about any time I want to. (side note - I am in a little hot water for not getting a 67/68 fastback). I want this car to be a reliable cruiser that can bark 3rd (or 4th?) and look WAY better doing it than a new Mustang. But your right, 500 may be better :) I think this engine may be capable, but I would do aluminum heads if I need that, that leads to forged pistons, bigger cam... ah heck a full build, my wife would go ballistic if I jump into that right away! Any upgrades I do will be of the type that will support more power in the future, or a different engine.

Thanks for the info man, seems like there are some good people on here that will share their experience, knowledge and real life experiences with these cars.
 

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If it has good compression and oil pressure and doesn't make any bad noises, that is about all you can determine from an external review. I would recommend cutting open the oil filter to see if there is any glitter in it which would be bad. If the oil looks new, drive it a little and then cut it open. If it were out of the car, it would be nice to drop the pan and check the bearings.

Never used a scope, just look for excessive wear
 
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OP

Yeah some of BPE motors, usually the less expensive iron head ones, are flat tappet. It's already well broken in so just drive it after going over what may be some simple tune issues (carb & timing). IHH if it runs well I would not dump any $ into EFI. It is not plug & play and as far as more power....juice may not be worth the squeeze. A good carb tuned right works fine

If its 10 years old it "may" be a rebuild with donor block (nothing wrong with that) vs their newer "new" blocks that do have Blueprint cast into them. Regardless it should have an ID # sticker on DS lower block

If dealer lets you pull plugs or even take it to a shop to go over, great. Bore scope through plug hole will show piston top, cyl walls (cross hatch), and even bottom of valves.

"Sometimes" fresh oil is a sign old (may of had metal flakes) has been ditched. Not saying the dealer is shadey...just that they will say anything you want to hear and just hide behind "owner says...."

But it sounds like a solid foundation in terms of motor, just may need some minimal tune

the Whine, well if from trans area could be pilot, TO bearing, front input bearing...or maybe just low on fluid

Good luck if you get it
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
@fairfax1000 yep, thats the plan. It does run a little rough. I will be doing typical maintenance - oil change, air filter, points condenser, cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Also change the tranny fluid and diff fluid. As someone mentioned previously, I will cut open the oil filter. And I want to peak in the rear end anyway - and figure out what gears it has (I know I can do that whithout opening it up).

I took a quick spin today, I am still not 100% convinced it is a M22, but I am pretty certain it is close ratio. Gears are low, I am thinking 3:73 or lower. I don't think the speedo reads right, if it does I was revving around 3300 at 60mph (ouch!). More to come... should I be putting this info in a new thread in a different section?
 
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