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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 94 amp 12SI in my camaro and I use an Alan Grove mid mount bracket. I chatted with them and they gave me the application to get a CS130 that fits their bracket. What I don't have is a plug that fits into the CS130. Where do I get that?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks!!! Now where was that tech ref section to explain the wiring...


Here it is...

"S", this was a heavy gauge, red wire.

"F", this was a small gauge, brown wire.

"L", this was a small gauge, brown/red wire.

"P", this was a small gauge, brown/white wire.

The red wire from "S" gets connected back to the output terminal of the alternator just like in the "SI" swap.

The brown/red wire from "L" gets connected to what is shown in the diagram above as the blue wire. It's this wire that comes (indirectly) from the idiot light and it energizes the alternator.

The wires from "F" and "P" are not used!
 

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Really only need two (2) wires to hook one up;
The "S" is the Battery connection. Use a good size (#4 or so ) wire as they put out some jiuce and you don't want to rely on you're old #8/10 to do the job for long ;)
The "L" terminal goes to the original 12vdc feed through the lamp on your dash to indicate it's charging. You can use a 3~5watt resistor in it's place, but the lamp is a good idea anyway.
DO NOT try to wire through an original older @30~50 Amp gauge! These puppies will fry one of them in a heart-beat if you get a good load going through em (ask me how I learned that :eek: )
If you want a gauge, use a modern volt-meter to allow you to see the output.
It will stay !14vdc even at idle :thumbsup:

(edit)
Thanks!!! Now where was that tech ref section to explain the wiring...


Here it is...
Dang - you type (and I guess search ) faster than I can :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK...

S = Charging wire, I'll use the one I have on the 94 amp 12SI
L = Power/Idiot light, I'll use the wire from the 94 amp 12SI
F = ??
P = ??

Ummmm, we seem to be missing a critical connection here!! The "sensing" wire, which one is that?


Dave (dnult), if you would have labeled the wires in your schematic I'd have it all figured out, LOL!

 

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OK...
... Ummmm, we seem to be missing a critical connection here!! The "sensing" wire, which one is that?

The SI/CS series alternators are internal sensing and don't really need the optional 'sensing wire' hooked up to work properly.
If - you had a remotely mounted battery with several large drain-loads on it this wire can be very usefull. It is often wired up as remote sensing in marine and industrial applications.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would never run an alternator without a sensing wire located at the main power draw.....If the CS does not have a sensing wire then I wont use it. A one wire alternator may charge the battery, but an alternator is more than a battery charger.
 

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... If the CS does not have a sensing wire then I wont use it. A one wire alternator may charge the battery, but an alternator is more than a battery charger.
The CS does have a sensing wire (it's "S") - but it's just not necessary to wire to remote storage source (battery) for most installations :noway:

DO NOT confuse an Internal Sensing alternator (like the SI/CS series) with the junky Self-Exciting Aftermarket "One-wire" POS's sold by retailers :eek:
Those are totally different devices.

The remote sensing part of the CS unit is to "look" at the reference voltage at the the remote storage (battery) location and make sure it is getting enough voltage to charge correctly. On installations like a boat, where the battery is more than 10 feet (in my case) from the alternator, the voltage drop through things like the battery sellector and wiring can be enough to drop the voltage below the 14.5~14.7vdc necessary to effectively charge the battery(ies).

If you want to wire it to sense from somewhere like the main power source it's easy;
Wire the "S" terminal to the "Bat" lug on the battery itself or your main power-lug/tap, wire the lamp circuit with a diode (to prevent forward voltage to the alternator) to the "F" terminal and then wire the key-on source to the "L" terminal - this will give you full voltage sensing and adjustment based off the voltage main storage/distribution circuit(s).

Wiring the unit so the lamp and 12vdc source goes to the "L" wire and the "S" terminal to the "Bat" terminal with a jumper allows the alternator to "sense" the voltage in the short #4 wire, usually found on our cars, between the alternator and the battery - it will not appreciately drop in that short piece of large wire ...
This is by far the easiest way to upgrade most car systems.
I've done bunches of these in upgrading systems for friends and they work great with no 'sensing' issues.

Hopes this explains it better and you can feel better about the wiring options.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have the battery in the trunk, so my charging wire goes from the alternator all the way back to the battery lug of the kill switch in the trunk. Then another wire comes from the switchable side of the kill switch all the way back to the main power connector on the firewall. This point is where everything gets it's power from and where I need to sense the voltage to ensure that the source for everything electrical in the car is at a steady level.

I haven't picked up the CS130 yet but I can only assume that there is a main lug for the charging wire (like the 10SI & 12SI) and then a connector for the excitor, sensing, etc. I need the charging wire to continue to go back to the trunk, but the alternator needs to maintain power based on the voltage reading from the main connector on the firewall, not based on voltage readings from the battery in the trunk or from the charging lug on the back of the alternator.
 

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I just looked at MAD Electrical and found these part numbers....
GM Dealership Parts Department # 88987962
AC-DELCO# PT1742
 

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I just looked at MAD Electrical and found these part numbers....
GM Dealership Parts Department # 88987962
AC-DELCO# PT1742
I think there's an echo in here Steve :D
Most good auto supply houses should have it - @$15 :thumbsup:

AC/Delco #PT1742 (GM #88987962)

I usually cut them off "donor's" at Pick-N-Pull :yes:
 

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I just bought one at NAPA. Echlin P/N VRC191. Good luck. Don't use the American Autowire conversion kit. It doesn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
OK...

S = Charging wire, I'll use the one I have on the 94 amp 12SI
L = Power/Idiot light, I'll use the wire from the 94 amp 12SI
F = ??
P = ??

My mistake......"S" is not the charging wire it is the "sensing" wire. There is a four pin connector and a lug on the back of the alternator. "S" will go to my remote sensing wire and "L" will be from the idiot light/excitor. Three wires to the alternator just like the 12SI, just a different connector for two of them.
 

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Paulm
Let me know how it goes. I am doing the same thing as you and have had problems. Let me know how you wire it up and if the alt. works well under load. Also do you have v belt or serp?
Thanks 5280
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Paulm
Let me know how it goes. I am doing the same thing as you and have had problems. Let me know how you wire it up and if the alt. works well under load. Also do you have v belt or serp?
Thanks 5280
It was a piece of cake...If I would have known that the CS130 (Napa P/N 1N-4521 $102.04 1991 Chevy 1 ton w/454) was a direct fit I never would have run a 12SI. I had already made all of the mods to bypass the external regulator and was running an aftermarket bracket setup ( http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/S.B.Long_Pump.htm part number 215R-ALT). I have a long water pump if that makes a difference....Anywho, all I had to do was wire in the new plug (Napa P/N VRC191 $10.88), bolt in the CS130 and done!

I wired the "S" terminal to the sensing wire that I had, the "L" to the wire from the light/excitor, just reconnected the charging wire and done. I did have to take the V-belt pulley from the 12SI and swap it on the CS130 which took about one minute with my cordless impact.

It charges 14.4 at 750 RPM idle with everything on except the fan. If I turn on the fan the voltage will drop into the 13's until I get to about 1500 RPM then back to 14.4.
 

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I wired the "S" terminal to the sensing wire that I had, the "L" to the wire from the light/excitor, just reconnected the charging wire and done. I did have to take the V-belt pulley from the 12SI and swap it on the CS130 which took about one minute with my cordless impact.

On the sensing wire you mention,(Big red one from the connector) Which one did you wire it to? What color?
I assume the "L" wire went to the blue one? Thanks
BTW, did you just jumper the two outer wires together at the old regulator end like it suggests on the tech forum?
 
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