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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know of someone or a shop that can create a dual cold air intake for a super ram in a first gen?

I prefer someone in the Chicago area. Material can be stainless or mild steel as I will powder coat a non-stainless setup.

I am picturing something coming around the radiator with filters on the grill side of the core support. I will need to relocate my ps resevoir and radiator catch can but I think this would provide the coolest, densist air.

Later,

Elmer

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1969 Camaro RS Convertible
406 SBC Accel Superram, 700R4, 3.55 12 bolt
DSE Modified Wayne Due suspension, 17" Budnik Prisms, Baer 13" 4 wheel discs, Recaro SRD's, Custom Detroit Speed dash
http://communities.msn.com/TheBearHunt/
 

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68 SS Convertible, 383 EFI w/TPIS Mini Ram II, TKO 600, Aluminum flywheel, 3.31 12 bolt posi
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274 Posts
Elmer, I wanted to do the same thing for my 68 with a TPIS MiniRamII, exempt a single 4" instead of a dual setup. But instead of finding a local shop to do it, I made one myself with PVC pipe. Don't get this picture in your mind of an ugly PVC setup with lots of ugly joints. It looks like metal after painting, with no visible joints.

(See more photos at http://www.geocities.com/hrayhouston/engine.html)

This method won't be for everyone, but if you don't mind doing it yourself it works great. Everyone that sees it is impressed with the look.

The secret was a product called PVC weld available at the hardware store. What I did was route the 4" pipe using several bends and straight sections, cutting some bends in the middle to get the desired routing, just as you would do with prebent metal pipe. I cut the slip joints off and just butt "welded" the pieces together just like you would metal, V-ing the joint and applying the weld. Then sanding the weld smooth and painting.

I put the air filter in the fenderwell behind the passenger headlight and made a plate from aluminum to seperate it from the engine compartment. I spent extra time sanding the assembly super smooth and priming before painting it. Note the joint in the middle, it is a slip joint to allow the engine to move slightly.

I have suggestions to make it easier if you want to try this.

Ray

[This message has been edited by 68SSConvt (edited 10-29-2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey Ray,

That looks really good! Do you have a shot of the airbox? I can actually see doing this with a dual setup.... hmmmm. That might work.

Anyone else have an example that they'd like to share?

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1969 Camaro RS Convertible
406 SBC Accel Superram, 700R4, 3.55 12 bolt
DSE Modified Wayne Due suspension, 17" Budnik Prisms, Baer 13" 4 wheel discs, Recaro SRD's, Custom Detroit Speed dash
http://communities.msn.com/TheBearHunt/
 

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68 SS Convertible, 383 EFI w/TPIS Mini Ram II, TKO 600, Aluminum flywheel, 3.31 12 bolt posi
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274 Posts
Thanks,

I don't have a better shot of just the air box. Actually there isn't a box. I just cut a piece of aluminum that fits in the area where the battery used to be. It is straight along the top front and bottom, and curved along the back edge to match the fender well. The top bolts behind the fender lip, the front to the radiator support and the rear to the wheel well. This basically seals the area behind it. There is a 4" hole cut in it and a 4" dryer vent flange on each side.
The filter is on the sealed side, and the air tube on the other side leading to the engine. The second photo on the webpage gives a better view of the shape ot the block off plate. It angles into the engine compartment slightly from top to bottom to allow more room for the filter behind it. The air flows to this area from behind the headlight.

You could use 3" pipe and do the same thing going to both sides, one from each butterfly.
One hint, glue the pieces together on the inside in several spots to hold it together, then use the PVC weld to seal it all the way around the joint. Then sand to a smooth finish.

Good luck,

Ray
 
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