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i was thinking of buying a 69 dz 302 that was standard bore and had some rust in the cylinders.a machine shop bored it out almost to 40 over,awaiting final hone,and there is still a few small traces of very light rust spots in the cylinders.the machine shop thinks that it will be ok at 40 over.what do you guys think?i will be buying this from the owner based on what the machine shop says.the owner of the block knows the machine shop owner pretty well. will i need to get some pictures.the pictures will be hard to come by as the block is two hours away from me,and the owner will not take anymore pics himself.i would hate to pass on this.the owner wants $3250.00 for block,3279 crank,rods and new 30 over pistons (no help),472 intake,smog system.would this be a good investment.Kurt S. said the block looked legit from the picture i sent him.thanks in advance.
 

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You might get by with being .040 but the rust stain will not go away, it maybe etched into , it may wear down depending on where its at. But I dont suppose you will be driving this ?
Seems kinda high for a block like this but If you value the numbers block more than money, guess its a done deal. As for the crank numbers, did you say 302 crank? #3279? I thought those steel 302 cranks were #1178 large journal.

FWIW, IMO, very few of these cars are of good investment, but they do appreciate or carry their own, to a point. You really have to buy it low and sell it hi for an investment but if you are just playing with it and expect to get all your money back, then its a good deal. Played for free.

I have had my car 38 years and keep saying the same thing but its basically being maintained.
 

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So long as the metal isn't pitted, you should be fine. Surface rust can be honed off pretty easily. Once the engine is running, rings are ringing and oil is getting moved around it won't cause a problem.
 

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I imagine you’re hyped on authenticity for your ride and want the 302DZ to make it so. The situation sounds to me like there has to be fair play between all players with the understanding that you are gambling based upon the machine shops diagnostics and recommendations as there really is no such thing as a guarantee. An engine cylinder can function properly with minor rust pits although may tend to use slightly more oil which is burned off from oil accumulation in the minuscule pockets of the cylinder, What concerns me is internal casting weakness or pin holes caused by rust. Pin holes can cause water to leak into the motors internals or may even cause a catastrophic blow out. Another consideration would be condition of the lifter bores and possible expense of boring them for over sized lifters. I would definitely have the block pressure tested and have a clear statement in writing from the machine shop (on the billing statement) that the block is OK for use and will not fail because of rust or problems related to rust. A block is only the initial cost of an engine build up. Just think, add the price of your DZ block to the price of all other components and labor that will be lost if that engine destructs. I really would not want to attempt to recuperate based on whether or not the block passed inspection even from a reputable machine shop.

Personally, I never put money into a block until I’ve run the engine for a year using cheap components. It is amazing how fun you can have attempting to destroy it and if it survives you more then likely have a good block. Even new blocks and heads can have bad core shifts.

There are allot of judgment calls and luck in building a successful Hi-Perf Motor. Experience helps but it’s not perfect.

Good Luck and have Fun
 

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Why??

Depending on year, (i.e., SJ or LJ is all), pick yourself up a 4" bore block and make an old junk301!!

It won't be stock regardless so why spend the money for supposed numbers matching!!!

I lost my OEM, 350SS engine years ago and agonized over creating a number's matching re-stamp and then I realized that it still REGARDLESS wouldn't by my original engine so I first went 406SB and now 496BB!!!

But it's your money so do what your morals will let you..

As always, jmho and that seem's like alotta money for a core 302 to me UNLESS you have the car it came out of.

pdq67

PS., and my '66 "round-bottom" 283 had a notched flange 3" SJ forged crank in it when I got it AND I will create another old junk 292/301 depending on pistons onna these day's b/c I dearly loved my first one!!

It was real hoot up about 7 to 7,500 rpm!!!

It is the little engine that you can, "Drive it like you stole it"!!!!!!
 

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As far as price, that seems like a lot of components to include for that price. All you really need is the heads. There are people that can remember buying these things for $1000 complete, but that is history. I've seen short blocks go for $5k. I was looking at geting $7k for my complete engine until I found the block was cracked. Just went to look at the bidding on a fan blade for my car, it's at $1100 and has 5 days left. This stuff is getting out of hand. The only thing you can buy for $1000 today is the heads.
 
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